inlay template - Page 2 - Router Forums
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-20-2019, 03:12 PM
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Frank here is a picture of how the inlay kit works.

If you make the template based on this you should have no problem clearing the pocket because the collar gives you correct offset for the template to cut the outside edge of the pocket. Just remove the rest of the material in the pocket.
Remove the collar and using the same template you cut the inlay. you do need to make sure you stay against the temple because if you get off of the template you will be cutting into the inlay.
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-20-2019, 11:03 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all of the replies. I think I've finally got the basics figured out. I made the first perimeter cut in the recess with the supplied bushing, then made a 2nd pass with a little larger bushing I fabbed up which increases the groove to about 3/16". I nicked the outside of the recess with the surfacing bit (bad eyes), so tomorrow I'll make another practice run and set up a fence to keep me away from that outside edge. I'm finding new ways to make sawdust.
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-21-2019, 12:10 AM
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If i understand correctly, you're trying to inlay a rectangle (5"x7") that's 1/4" thick into a picnic table. Is this correct?

Personally I'd not make a stencil because you'll likely never need that exact size inlay again, plus... it's a rectangle. I'd just clamp a fence to the table and run the router along the fence for each edge. Then chisel out the corners of the recess if needed.

To me the hardest part (which shouldn't be incredibly difficult) will be setting the bit depth. I could be wrong but I'm gonna assume this picnic table isn't perfectly flat on top because most of them aren't. So I'd definitely fix that if it isn't. Make the area where you want your inlay as flat as possible plus a few extra inches on each side. If you feel the table is flat then you shouldn't have many issues.

The plaque is aluminum so sanding it flush won't be an option. That's why i said a flat surface is a must. Once the surface is flat, carefully set your bit depth to the thickness of the plaque so it ends up perfectly flush.
If anything, going deeper than the plaque thickness might be an option, and you can always use shims of some sort under the plaque to level it off before you glue it.

Tapping holes into the back of the plaque and screwing it in from under the table could be an option for holding it secure as well.

Another idea is to inlay the plaque some amount below the surface of the table and cover with an epoxy of some sort.

I feel like I've said a lot, and a lot of it based on assumptions. I apologize if i misunderstood what you're trying to do.




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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-21-2019, 09:08 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply Mickeyfolse. You've got the plan correct. I'm planning to mount the plaque in a wider 2 x 8 center board. I'd have to go look, but I picked up a tube of some heavy duty exterior construction adhesive that should work with both metal and wood. I planned to make the recess about 1/16" or so deeper than the plaque and use the adhesive to level it, and cleaning out what might be forced out the sides. So the bottom finish isn't critical. Then leveling and clamping it flush with the top surface until the adhesive sets up.

I did try your method without the template first, but had an issue with the round corners. I even tried establishing the corners with a forstner bit first, but after many failures, I moved up to the template idea thinking I could get an exact copy much easier. If I got paid by the hour, I might be up to a quarter. Thanks.
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 03-21-2019, 05:21 PM Thread Starter
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My thanks to all who volunteered their opinions on my template question. I have played with this long enough to find the system that works for me, and I managed to rout a recess that I am happy with and claim as mine. Thanks again everybody.
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post #16 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-17-2019, 08:32 AM Thread Starter
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It didn't occur to me at the time I was asking for help with this, that I should have included a pic of my finished project. So, hopefully better late is better than never. Thanks again for all of those replies. F
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