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Hitachi Template Guide Installation

12K views 20 replies 8 participants last post by  mtgilbert 
#1 ·
Hello-

I used a router for the first time this week, a Hitachi KM12VC. A little scary at first, I admit, but now I see I was worried for nothing. I intend to use it for two purposes, at least in the near future: with a template guide and straight bit to create a form in which to cure recurve bows (archery), and with a drum sanding kit for the same project.

As for the template guide, Hitachi conveniently provides them with my router kit. The trouble is, I can't figure out how to install them (and the manual is worthless in this regard). Just when I think I may have it, I turn the router on and the locking nut for the template guide immediately comes loose. Does anyone know where I can go for help?

Thanks.
 
#3 ·
Thanks for the quick reply, Mike.

I'm using a bit with a 1/4" shank, and a 1/2" diameter straight blade. The template guide has an outer diameter of 1/2" and an inner diameter of 13/32". The bit seems secure, though it's tricky to tighten it, and I'm really not sure if it's tight enough, or if it extends far enough into the collet. I'm not sure if hand tightening the guide is enough, and if not, what kind of tool(s) to use.

Here is the order of attachments (I hope it makes sense to you): 1/4" collet, bit shank, template guide locking nut, template guide adapter (which is attached to the router base with two screws), template guide, bit blade.
 
#6 · (Edited)
Hi Matt, Welcome to the forums.
I happen to have the same kit.
Pic of fixed and plunge base with adapter ring (not sure of correct nomenclature) installed on plunge base and two pics of guide installed.

I am a little antsy about how tight they are too. I have been using a small channellock pliers to make sure they are tight. I also picked up some O-rings, tip from someone on here, to use as lockwashers. Haven't tried this method yet but it sounds like a good idea.

Harry, I think that o-ring idea showed up in your "bloody brass ...." discussion but am just senile enough I cannot remember who to attribute it to.

Cheers all.
 

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#7 ·
Thanks, John, and thanks for the welcome as well. One thing I just figured out is that only about half of the bit's shank is in the collet when the template guide is installed. Is that enough? I can't just slip the template guide over the bit because the bit and template guide are the same size. It seems odd that the locking nut come loose so easily, especially because there are no straight edges on either the nut or the guide to clamp a wrench on. Perhaps the O-ring is the way to go, but where do I find one just that size? Is the lock nut coming loose because of vibrations, or is it actually contacting the collet? Should I be using the plunge base or the fixed, or doesn't it matter? Sorry to have so many questions, but surely someone else has encountered the same problem.
 
#9 ·
Greetings Matt and welcome to the router forum. Just wondering if your base is centered on the collet?
 
#14 ·
Hi Matt,

I think I follow you. You are trying to make a template of a recurve bow?
What are you using for a pattern to make the template from, just the plans?
If so, what are you following with the guide bushing?

I'm afraid your approaching dangerous territory with 1/2 or less shank in the collett. I haven't been on the forum very long so I don't know how to do this yet, but I think we would get more exposure if we could move this thread to "General Routing" not everyone checks through the Introductions.

A router table will definitely help keeping the piece square.
I have made patterns in the past and I generally make a tempory one from masonite or 1/4 ply with a jigsaw, bandsaw or whatever tools will do the job.
They are a little rough on the edges but using a flush trim bit the bearing rides over the rough spots and the result comes out pretty clean.
On a table anyway, you could actually make your template from a real bow. Might be a little tricky as you would basically need to freehand it using the starter pin and it can be real easy to get on the wrong side of the bit but it is doable. I would recommend doing this on some 1/4" masonite or MDF and not try it on an inch thick hunk of plywood.

I have to get to work now :bad: but will see about moving this thread or you may contact one of the administrators to find out how to do it.

Will chat with you later.
 
#15 ·
John, I think I have my solution. I looked closely at my collet and saw telltale signs of wear: the inside of the template guide was rubbing against the collet, and the guide and lock nut were coming loose. I moved the collet and guide a little farther apart (maybe 1/16"?) and the template guide lock ring stayed secure. There was wear on both the top of the collet (looking down when the router is upside down for bit installation) and the sides; I think the wear on the sides happened before I properly centered the template adapter (hat tip to Jerry for asking about that).

The problem I'm left with is the fact that only about half the shank is actually in the collet. Your point is well taken, John, that I'm entering "dangerous territory" with this combination of bit and guide. I guess the blade is meant to extend down into the guide, not stick out above it (again looking at the router while it's upside down).

To answer your questions, I traced the "laminating press" pattern (from paper provide by Bingham) on 2" of plywood (four 1/2" sheets glued and screwed together) and then cut it with a jigsaw. I meant to use a band saw, but didn't have one (I do now) and the expert woodworker I asked to help me wasn't sure he could do it (2" is pretty thick and the other dimensions are something like 2' by 5', so the thing weighs a ton!). What I should have done was suggested in the American Woodworker article, namely to make a template in masonite, etc., rough cut the plywood sheets *before* laminating them together, then use the template and router with flush trim bit to do two sheets at a time. I'd link to the article but still haven't met my 10 post minimum!
 
#16 ·
Hi Matt, at least sounds like ya making progress and not just activity. :dance3:Still not to late to go back and make your masonite/mdf pattern and then trim this piece out with a flush cut.
If its that large, I have no doubt it is heavy. Sounds like a lot to try to manuever around a router table.
Cheers, and keep us posted.
 
#17 ·
What I'm going to do is make a template from some marine plywood left over from the kayaks I built in the summers of 2007 and 2008 (the kit came from Pygmy Boats). It's 3/16", which I think will be OK, yes? I shifted the pattern for the laminating press down slightly to correct for some errors in the jigsaw work and my poor router movement, and will rout out the rest. I'm getting more consistent with handling of the router - practice does make perfect. Thanks for all your help, John and others.
 
#18 ·
Good Job Matt. I first got mine I was a bit apprehensive about turning it on because of my experiences with my Dads old Craftsman router. But, once I had it on and running, it was like an old friend.
Learning curve on it seems pretty quick.
Chat with you later.
 
#19 ·
Matt,

You'll have much better results if you use a bearing-guided bit instead of a bushing to guide the bit. It will give you a good grip on the bit.

I've attached a picture and here's the link to one source.

Pattern Flush Trim Router Bit - Rockler Woodworking Tools

I've never seen a 2" long cutter on a 1/4" shank router bit before. It's farther than I'd go. Perhaps someone more experienced than I here can tell you where to get a longer one and that it's OK to do it, but not I. I'll be using a bit with a 2" long cutter this week on a router table I have "under construction", but it's a 1/2" shank.
 

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#20 ·
Matt, If I'm reading this thread correctly, I'm surprised you have not yet had a major catastrophe. When using template guides they should be large enough for the bit to pass through plus clearance for sawdust. You should be using an offset(smaller than the workpiece)template for this operation. Also, if you are using a 1/4" shank, 1/2" cutting diameter bit with a 1/2" OD guide, you probably don't have enough shank in the collet. Sounds like your pattern is the same size as the finished piece you want. If this is the case you should use a bearing guided template or pattern bit as Jim suggested.
 
#21 ·
Thanks for your replies, Jim and Rusty, and thanks for the tips about bit and template combinations. Right now, the form for the bow is right in some places and needs to have a little material (about 1/8") removed in others. What I'm thinking about doing is using a jigsaw at a slight angle to remove the extra such that one of the four pieces of plywood is close to correct and the other three below it still have material to remove. I would then use my router with a 1 1/2" long flush trim bit (and 1/2" collet). By routing from one side, and then flipping the form over and routing from the other side, I should end up with square edges. Does this sound reasonable?

On another note, is there a standard way to refer to a bit that contains all the dimensions? For example, the flush trim bit I mention above has a 1/2" diameter shank, a blade which is 1 1/2" long and has a 1/2" diameter.

I'm pretty close to my 10 posts, so I'll post some photos of my project.
 
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