Guide bushing baseplate for a laminate trimmer - Router Forums
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-25-2009, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
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Default Guide bushing baseplate for a laminate trimmer

I have one of those combo kits based on the laminate trimmer with a variety of other attachments.

The current month (October, 2009) of Fine Woodworking shows a laminate trimmer with a guide bushing base. If I have what I figure is a standard four screw base, can one of these either be gotten or shop made?

I started to do this with some plexiglass remnants but I stopped because the
trimmer's laminate attachment doesn't look like it has much bit adjustment.
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-28-2009, 10:15 PM Thread Starter
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Default layered baseplate

I got my set of brass bushings today from the Harbor Freight.

Looks like I have to make two bases: one for the Craftsman router (which I thought was dimensioned correctly.) The only hit I had for Craftsman on this was somebody who wanted to make the hole bigger for larger bushings. My bad in any case.

I reviewed the how to and it looks like a layered arrangement to make the
two hole saw cuts. The picture shows three layers. Two layers makes sense for the two hole saw dimensions but why the sandwich of three?

I have some scrap plexiglass I want to use for this and have to round up a few more smaller hole saws.

It makes a bit more sense now and I have good knowledge of how to adjust the
zip tool/laminate trimmer.

After checking at Sears, all they had was a $30 set. This HF set has two locking rings and is half the price so one ring can stay on the trimmer base and one for the router.

Thanks for any responses.
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-29-2009, 12:28 AM
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Default Bosch base info

Lonin,

Here's the accessory part number for the guide bushing base for a Bosch Colt trimmer. The 4-bolt pattern is about 2-3/4"x3". Amazon sells them for under $10. I don't know if this will work for you. I've included pictures of each.
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-29-2009, 12:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loninappleton View Post
I got my set of brass bushings today from the Harbor Freight.

Looks like I have to make two bases: one for the Craftsman router (which I thought was dimensioned correctly.) The only hit I had for Craftsman on this was somebody who wanted to make the hole bigger for larger bushings. My bad in any case.

I reviewed the how to and it looks like a layered arrangement to make the
two hole saw cuts. The picture shows three layers. Two layers makes sense for the two hole saw dimensions but why the sandwich of three?

I have some scrap plexiglass I want to use for this and have to round up a few more smaller hole saws.

It makes a bit more sense now and I have good knowledge of how to adjust the
zip tool/laminate trimmer.

After checking at Sears, all they had was a $30 set. This HF set has two locking rings and is half the price so one ring can stay on the trimmer base and one for the router.

Thanks for any responses.
There are 3 "layers" because the bottom recess holds the guide flange, the middle allows the bushing body to fit through but not the flange and the third is for the locking ring to rest down in.

Be aware that the bushing (and thereby the hole) must be very carefully centered on the router bit, so you have the same repeatable offset each time you use it.

A number of companies offer "centering guides" for this purpose although some people choose to use a straight drill bit, sized to be slightly smaller than the inside of the bushing (close enough to adjust the tolerance by eye). It all depends upon just how accurate you want to be!

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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-29-2009, 09:58 AM Thread Starter
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Default

I think it was the article in Fine Woodworking that mentioned centering can be done with a dovetail bit as well. The taper must give some aid in centering correctly.

Thanks for the help on this.

The baseplate on the ziptool is in two parts and the removable base that unscrews looks like the one for the Colt. I have already used that to copy the
screw pattern onto some plexiglass pieces. But I don't think there's need to stay with the small size for this. It may work to make a semicircular base plate with a square side that is a little larger for stability.
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-29-2009, 10:21 AM
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Hi loninappleton

Pie are round but square is best for the base plate for your router 7" or 8" square ....

You can make one very easy and quick,cut some stock in a square, draw a line from corner,,drill a 1/16" hole in the dead center...if you want it round now is the time to make it round using the 1/16" center hole..

Now chuck up your forstner bit ( you need two of them) 1 3/16" and a 1 3/8" ) drill out the bigger hole (but only 1/8" deep) now chuck up you 1 3/16" bit and dril the hole out

Now your guides with just pop in the new plate,,make one more at the same time but this time dril out a 2 1/2" hole for the bigger bits...

To center the new plate for your guides, pop in one of the guides, that has a 1/4" hole in the center, now chuck up a 1/4" drill bit backwards in the router or a router bit, now center up the plate and put the screws in place..

===========

Quote:
Originally Posted by loninappleton View Post
I have one of those combo kits based on the laminate trimmer with a variety of other attachments.

The current month (October, 2009) of Fine Woodworking shows a laminate trimmer with a guide bushing base. If I have what I figure is a standard four screw base, can one of these either be gotten or shop made?

I started to do this with some plexiglass remnants but I stopped because the
trimmer's laminate attachment doesn't look like it has much bit adjustment.



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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-29-2009, 04:17 PM Thread Starter
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I can't go into all the tools I don't have. Or a shop either.

;-)

But I did learn a good lesson from Router Magic by Bill Hylton. He says that you should always replace the round head base screws with flat heads and countersink the holes. The taper of the screws centers and tightens the base (without overdoing it, of course.)

The base of the zip tool has threaded holes in lucite that "bottom out" so I cannot go to longer screws but will match up some teensy flat head ones and countersinks for the new base.

I'll have to make a hold down to do the pattern as well. I do not want to try to freehand a pattern bit cut.

The real fly in the ointment is not having a band saw to rough cut to shape. That means trying to get through quite a bit of waste. Or going at it with a hack saw.

Morris, the brand that has the hole cutters in all the stores (except True Value,) has the 1 3/16 hole cutter.

Last edited by loninappleton; 09-29-2009 at 04:19 PM. Reason: spelling
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-29-2009, 10:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loninappleton View Post

But I did learn a good lesson from Router Magic by Bill Hylton. He says that you should always replace the round head base screws with flat heads and countersink the holes. The taper of the screws centers and tightens the base (without overdoing it, of course.)
I used to countersink mine, but for some reason they don't always stay in alignment. So I've gone back to a counter-bored hole, just to have some adjust ability.

Rusty

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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-30-2009, 11:16 AM Thread Starter
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The 1 3/16 hole cutter is not a common size found in the inexpensive kits. But I got the 1 3/16 hole cutter yesterday at the farm and fleet for $7.00 total w. tax. I already have the pilot drill from other purchases of the same type of hole cutter.

The is a router base with the zip tool device and the pattern of the semi circle with flat edge looks like the right proportional size to make a pattern.

I mentioned "pattern bit" above. I do not actually have a pattern bit yet with the guide at the shank. This may be necessary to get if I want to use the removable router base for the zip tool as a guide.

What is the difference for control of the piece if the pattern is at the base or at the top?

I have seen articles with the table mounter router using the flush trim bit.
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-30-2009, 02:19 PM
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Hi

The flush trim bit can be used in many ways,you don't need a fence or a guide the norm it has one built in so to speak,the bearing is the fence



==============

Quote:
Originally Posted by loninappleton View Post
The 1 3/16 hole cutter is not a common size found in the inexpensive kits. But I got the 1 3/16 hole cutter yesterday at the farm and fleet for $7.00 total w. tax. I already have the pilot drill from other purchases of the same type of hole cutter.

The is a router base with the zip tool device and the pattern of the semi circle with flat edge looks like the right proportional size to make a pattern.

I mentioned "pattern bit" above. I do not actually have a pattern bit yet with the guide at the shank. This may be necessary to get if I want to use the removable router base for the zip tool as a guide.

What is the difference for control of the piece if the pattern is at the base or at the top?

I have seen articles with the table mounter router using the flush trim bit.



"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"

Marc Sommerfeld Tools ,Videos
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-n...RWaEpMA/videos

Find all threads started by bobj3
http://www.routerforums.com/search.php?searchid=944097


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