Beginner Question: Should/Could I use a template to cut a hole like this? - Router Forums
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-06-2012, 01:57 PM Thread Starter
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Default Beginner Question: Should/Could I use a template to cut a hole like this?

I'm working on a guitar amp project that requires me to cut two holes through the front baffle of the enclosure. I need the holes to be precise. The corners are 1/2" radius and the entire baffle is 14" wide. I thought about using a drill press for the corners and jig saw to connect them, but my previous experience makes me thing it will be too rough.

What do you suggest?

Thanks for your help.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-06-2012, 01:59 PM Thread Starter
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Default Might help if I remember to attach the image

Forgot the image... I want to route out the black parts.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-06-2012, 04:51 PM
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You can build a template out of straight pieces that have been cut on a table saw. If you make it out of lumber, you can screw the cross pieces to the stiles. I don't know the scale involved but the middle crosspiece may be a bit of a concern. It either needs to be stiff enough to avoid bending when you use it for a guide or you'll have to screw it to your workpiece. Once you've done this I would mount the template below your workpiece and use a bottom bearing flush trimming bit and follow the template. You don't need to worry about radiusing the corners of your template, the router bit will do that for you. The size of the bit will determine the size of the radius so you'll need a 1" bit. I would do the large cutout first.

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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-06-2012, 05:32 PM
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Good idea, Charles.

I had not considered using the template on a router table.

I see from his profile, that David has a router table.

I was going to suggest a template and skis to carry the router over the large gap.

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-06-2012, 05:45 PM
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the same way as the items are made below,use 1/4" thick MDF and just glue it for your template(s)

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-06-2012, 09:58 PM
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I would make some templates to fit the areas you need to route out. Then use a jig saw to cut the areas out except for the last maybe 1/ inch. Depends on how comfortable you are with a jig saw. Then lay the templates across the piece and finish routing out to the lines, then sand. The templates can be made just 1/16 of an inch shorter in height so you can clamp them in place to your bench. This should relieve most of the stress on the small bar along the top. Hope this helps.

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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-06-2012, 11:18 PM
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Have you tried the "Lenox Hole Saws" ?

I personally have used this product to drill a 2" hole for an underground irrigation system I just finished last week.

These hole saws require a special arbor, that drills the pilot hole, before the 2" saw kicks in. You have to be careful because the saw can "bite", but for the most part. This was a better hole than I could have drilled with out the Lenox Hole saw.

Check this link:
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Shop Tools at Lowes.com
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Make sure you get the arbor. I bought an L-2 arbor for a 2" hole.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-07-2012, 09:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbishopbliss View Post
Forgot the image... I want to route out the black parts.
I would suggest that you make a template from separate pieces of 3/8" MDF glued together in a similar way to that shown here. This method ensures perfect "cut-outs".
Sit the template on the wood to be used and draw the outline around the inside of the template. Now you can cut-out the waste using a jig saw, leaving about a 1/4" all round. The work piece and template can now be sat on each other by the use of double sided tape or pinned. The assembly is now sat over a 1/2" straight bearing bit with the template on top and rotated from left to right. The whole process, less glue drying time won't take much longer than it has to make this post.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-07-2012, 11:14 AM
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Personally, I like Charles, Cherryville Chuck, suggestion however, just a caution on doing an inside cut on the router table. One must stay very focused on the bit rotation as it is pretty easy to get on the wrong side of it. DAMHIKT.

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-10-2012, 02:16 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys. This is helpful. I didn't think about using a 1" bit and letting the bearing do the corners for me. That's why I asked.
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