T-track and channel for making a flexble use trammel - Router Forums
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-26-2012, 05:46 PM Thread Starter
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Default T-track and channel for making a flexble use trammel

Some time ago I made the trammel shown in Bill Hylton's "Router Magic" book. That involved making a t-track and a channel which contains the trammel pin. What's interesting about the design is the trammel pin can be extended inward beyond the base plate bit cutout.

That is shown here on the cover art of the book:

Amazon.com: Router Magic: Jigs, Fixtures, and Tricks to Unleash Your Router's Full Potential [Hardcover]: Bill Hylton: Books


What I wondered was: Is there any machined aluminum t-track and mated channel which could be used instead of the wood parts? Wood moves. And no matter how much care is used in making a sliding piece, binding can occur.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-26-2012, 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by loninappleton View Post
Some time ago I made the trammel shown in Bill Hylton's "Router Magic" book. That involved making a t-track and a channel which contains the trammel pin. What's interesting about the design is the trammel pin can be extended inward beyond the base plate bit cutout.

That is shown here on the cover art of the book:

Amazon.com: Router Magic: Jigs, Fixtures, and Tricks to Unleash Your Router's Full Potential [Hardcover]: Bill Hylton: Books


What I wondered was: Is there any machined aluminum t-track and mated channel which could be used instead of the wood parts? Wood moves. And no matter how much care is used in making a sliding piece, binding can occur.
Hi Lon - you might be able to use something like this:
Primary Slide - Sliding Channels and Slat Wall - Aluminum angle, Aluminum tube, Aluminum extrusions, Anodized aluminum, Aluminum pipe, Aluminum channel, Extruded Aluminum angle, brunner enterprises, Aluminum bar, aluminum rod, aluminum edging, alumin

It fits inside a standard 3/4 x 3/8 miter slot channel. Be aware, I haven't used anything from these people yet. Their prices for what I've shopped for have been decent until I got to the shipping.

John Schaben

The problem with experience is I usually get it immediately after I need it.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-26-2012, 08:28 PM
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-27-2012, 12:03 PM Thread Starter
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I have seen t-track at Woodcrafters and so on. But for this application the dimesnsioning seems too "muscular", The sub base and extension is made from 3/4 ply. The track and channel would have to be of smaller dimension to install flush.

What is shown in the picture uses a piece of ply with a standard sub base attached as a template to get the round part of the 'teardrop' shape. And standard method is used to find the center and make the bit cutout with a hole saw. On the top side there is an adjustment knob whose screw end meets the track through the top. The track is made with a hardwood. The channel is made with a keyhole bit to make the shoulders.

What I like about this as opposed to a Jasper pre-drilled guide is the fact that the slide allows you to sneak up on the diameter you wish to a fine line with the bit edge. My application is audio speaker building.

As a design, this might work for jig saws as well of the base plate of the saw is mounted 90d to the blade. Jig saw trammels sold in stores look too flimsy and do not allow for this very tight circle cutout when needed.

And on some future build I want to try mounting my zip tool with the cutter bits to the router trammel. The zip tool is a router related device sold as a brand by MLCS as the Marvel 3 in One:

Marvel 40 3-in1 Router Kit

There are more of the lightweight router tools coming to market like this based on the laminate trimmers.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-27-2012, 03:59 PM
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scroll down to the miter track at t-bar section on this page:

Miter Slot and T-Slot Table Accessories

that looks similar to what you are talking about ... ?
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-27-2012, 04:10 PM
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Lon; may I suggest brass rather than aluminum? Try these guys for small profile extrusions...
Brass Shapes - Special Shapes Company
Brass slides much easier than aluminum...better for fine adjustments.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-27-2012, 05:38 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Chris Curl View Post
scroll down to the miter track at t-bar section on this page:

Miter Slot and T-Slot Table Accessories

that looks similar to what you are talking about ... ?
Yes this would be a winner. One and I'd have enough for myself and another jig builder as well. Maybe the sale will last a few days.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-27-2012, 05:47 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Chris Curl View Post
scroll down to the miter track at t-bar section on this page:

Miter Slot and T-Slot Table Accessories

that looks similar to what you are talking about ... ?
I am not an engineer and so with no pics (or no way to open one I could see) I could not make a decision. But if the t-track price is really $4.50 for 36 inches that would indeed be a deal-- unless it's for a running foot.

I originally raised the question as a way to get others interested in this design and with perhaps some "sport engineering "improvements. It avoids the tedium of trying to use a keyhole bit in the router table. It may look easy but it was a chore for me to do and get the two parts of wood to work together.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-27-2012, 10:27 PM
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here's a pic
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-27-2012, 11:29 PM Thread Starter
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I got the pic from the original. But whatever is at the brass site just has lengths and dimensional info. Nothing opened to show price or how things would fit together.

The aluminum track and channel at MLCS is well- illustrated. But it doesn't appear to be something you can go down to the local Farm and Fleet to get. And there would be some machining involved. With the wood version, a nail can be used on either end of the sliding Tee for very large or very small cut outs. I think Hylton uses something other an a nail but the spike worked for me. A pin with a point end and thread end would have to be part of the assembly for aluminum or brass. So a bit of "sport machining" as well.
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