Fence extension - Router Forums
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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-07-2017, 10:38 PM Thread Starter
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Default Fence extension

I wanted to build a tablesaw fence extension, and sacrificial fence for dado on the end of boards.

I got some 3/4 birch plywood and cut 4" srips, 42". Going to drill and put in bolts to slide on T slots. Figure could use this one another on router table too.

I was surprised how springy they are. They are not sitting flat. It did get left out in my truck supported on tailgate for couple hours.

Is this a bad choice in wood? Did I wreck it leaving it out? I glued and screwed to strips together. Seems ok, one was flat.

Was this just a bad idea? In the past I used oak boards, but I thought they could warp over time.


Some of this is for dadoing ends of boards, some is just tryng to get better cuts with a longer fence. Was supposed to be 48" But I cut some other stuff out of the sheet. So this was a cut from length, not end.


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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-08-2017, 12:02 AM
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Sorry if this doesn't help , but this is what I did .

I used that particular board that has a melamine finish , and a piece of MDF in the middle for a sacrificial fence and it worked well . I'm a big fan of Baltic birch , but not sure how well it would work for a long fence . To flimsy imo .
I bought those aluminum T tracks as well and use it to hold feather boards for doing dado's

I used a couple pieces of MDF to provide a guide on the drill press , as you want those holes placed accurately for those T slots


Here's a better pic of what the guide looks like on the drill press . Basically a piece for of MDF glued and air nailed to a bigger piece providing a way to get accurate holes in the material


Here I dadoed out slots for the aluminum T slot .


Originally I was going to use Rockler clamps to secure the sacrificial fence to mine , but I have a General saw with an Excalibur fence , which worked out well as there's a lever to remove the face of the fence . So I built a runway with metal strips to slide the sacrificial fence into position , just like the original face .



It's very sturdy , but I do clamp the fence down to the back of the table on occasion , as it raises in the air a bit if you push the material threw to fast




I donít always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate

Last edited by RainMan 2.0; 03-08-2017 at 12:33 AM.
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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-08-2017, 07:19 AM
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Great post Rick. Thanks.

Don in Murfreesboro,Tn.

Measure once cut twice and it's still to short.
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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-08-2017, 07:52 AM Thread Starter
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I really like the featherboard. I struggle with good cuts.

Is there a difference in plywoods? Was birch the wrong choice, or plywood in general? I though 3/4 would have been good.
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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-08-2017, 07:55 AM Thread Starter
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Where do order t-slot from? Rockler?
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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-08-2017, 08:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zerk View Post
Where do order t-slot from? Rockler?
Thats the best place imho. They pack them in round plastic tubes and then in a cardboard box. I was impressed.

Workmanship is not perfection; it is how well you can cover your mistakes.
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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-08-2017, 09:24 AM
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Where do order t-slot from? Rockler?
The best pricing I could find online was Peachtree They also package well and have good customer service. They also have large assortment of products
T-Track & Accessories

Learning is an exciting adventure
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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-08-2017, 09:39 AM
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Check these people out, their prices are about as low as I've seen

Aluminum T-Track

Of course, they don't have a pretty color, but $8.54 for a 48" length is good. Plus. I like the groove for the screw head rather than a countersink.
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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-08-2017, 12:14 PM
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Lumber or panel boards will all warp, especially with changes in humidity. The solution to prevent that is to form either T sections, U sections, or box sections out of them. Truss floor joists are a good example. The spine of the truss is only a 9" + wide piece of 7/16" OSB with 2 end caps that prevent it from twisting. Basically they turn it into an I-beam.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 03-08-2017, 05:15 PM Thread Starter
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TJIs have lumber top and bottom. They install quicker, longer spans, and are vonsistent. The top and bottom are number too, not just the end caps. The problem is people cut the bottom board, which ruins the truss. You can only pop out the plugs.

Also heard fireman don't like them, the house is a loss pretty quick.

Not sure what it has to do with this. Plywood isn't strong enough alone and lumber isn't stable. Would you be able to tell on 4' piece.


Sounds like I need to add some metal.


Yesterday went to my first Rocker store. Lots of cool gaddgets. They dint have anything over 40". Maybe it doesn't help over 40". I am trying to make up for lack of skills. Trying to get my cuts straighter.
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