Building exact width dado jig - choices... - Page 2 - Router Forums
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post #11 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-30-2018, 02:52 AM
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This one requires no external clamps. Unlike yours, the boards at the top and bottom sandwich the board being dadoed. Since the top one moves and the lower one has a built in clamp, they grip the board tightly.

It relies on a bearing for dead accurate positioning and cuts, regardless of how well the base fits.

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fix...outer-jig.html
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post #12 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-01-2018, 06:29 AM
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If you choose #3, use a square router base and mark the edge you used to make the zero clearance.

All three methods have value, depending on the individual project...
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post #13 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-01-2018, 07:12 AM
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Kelly, Looks like you've worked out all the bugs. Nice solution.
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post #14 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-07-2018, 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by gmercer_48083 View Post
Kelly, Looks like you've worked out all the bugs. Nice solution.
Thanks, gmercer. The bearing guide system, like others suggest, makes it a "what you see is what you get" jig. The fact I just back off the one clamp, move it to the next position, turn the clamp and go makes blowing out multiple dadoes very quick.

The reason I have what you want is, I never lent it out before.

Scraps are a myth.
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post #15 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-08-2018, 12:30 AM
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I use a Dado Wiz for certain dados, or a dado stack. The standard jig with a bearing guided bit is my alternative approach.

If you had a dedicated square base with the bit centered on it, you could build s similar exact fit jig, but with a small fence on the outside of the fixed and movable parts. The bit need not be centered, if you always use one edge to set the width. You would fit your work piece into the space between the fence and the router's straight edge. Close it down tight and you would be able to cut an exact fit dado without a bearing guided bit. You could use, for example, an up or down spiral bit. By not changing the base, you have a reliable distance for the beginning and then the second cut.

So I'll stick with my own methods and skip bushings and edge guiding, thank you.

The more I do, the less I accomplish.
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post #16 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-12-2018, 06:35 PM
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The best method for dado cuts using a jig is to use a template guide of KNOWN external diameter and known offset.

e.g If you are in America and use the imperial system, it is easier.
A 3/4" template guide + a half inch bit (1/2") will have offset of 1/8" always.
A 3/4" template guide + a quarter in bit (1/4") will give an offset of 1/4" always.

Template Guide is best suited for Dados because unlike the pattern bit (bearing guided) you can vary the depth of cut just by plunging which is impossible with a pattern bit (bearing guided) unless you buy a pattern bit with a very short cutting edges and a very think template.

BUT you have a BOSCH and I think their simplified optional dust chute for your router will not work with template guides (?).
So for Bosch users I can only say use it would be better to use SHORT pattern (bearing guided) bits.
An annoying thing is that a 1/2" pattern bit (most useful size) with a 1/2" bearing will by physical limitations only come in a 1/4" shank.
FYI: Pattern bits + jigs were designed for through cuts & trims not dados of varying depth.
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post #17 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-12-2018, 07:01 PM
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Default A suitable pattern bit for dados

Note
1. Short blades cutting edges
2. 1/4" shank if 1/2" bit
3. Require thick templates.
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post #18 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-12-2018, 11:14 PM
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Mortising bits like that cut nice flat bottomed dados. Also useful for installing hinges flush with a door or jamb. I used one of these with a 1/4 inch shaft to slightly deepen the rabbet for a thicker aluminum router plate, and to install hinges on three interior doors that replaced the old, teenager abused doors. You definitely want the half inch shank for dados and grooves.

The illustration is how I set up a pattern to fit the new mounting plate. Fit the 4 pieces around the edge of the plate and clamp them down. I'd add either a card or painter's tape to make the opening slightly oversized (or it will be hard to lift out).
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post #19 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-13-2018, 12:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AshleyJ View Post
Stick,

1...what's IRL?
Also, does "No MDF"
2... include hardboard?



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
1... In Real Life...
2... Yes...

if you add a enlarged hole at one end it will facilitate plunging a top bearing mortising bit..
the top bearing guided bits are never off center and no math needed...
use a bit that's dia is approximately ¾ that of the width of your dado or grove.. clean cuts w/ two passes..

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

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post #20 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-13-2018, 12:11 PM
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For those with track saws made by Festool, Makita and Triton, you can purchase a router base that runs on a track. This could be used to cut a dado, but is more likely to be useful for simple grooves or rabbets.
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