Building exact width dado jig - choices... - Page 3 - Router Forums
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post #21 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-13-2018, 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by DesertRatTom View Post
For those with track saws made by Festool, Makita and Triton, you can purchase a router base that runs on a track. This could be used to cut a dado, but is more likely to be useful for simple grooves or rabbets.
If you have a track saw wouldn't it be also feasible and often faster to just use the saw to cut dados using two or more passes after Unless you have exact undersized router bits, you will need multiple passes for dados too.
I have a AU$49 909 branded track and I often use the circular saw that way.

Router with pattern bit or with a guide bush can cut or route all sorts of shapes depending on the template - not just straight line dados.

Last edited by reuelt; 05-13-2018 at 06:29 PM.
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post #22 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-13-2018, 08:32 PM
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@reuelt That's why I mentioned it. You could mark the exact location of the bit on the side of the mount so you knew exactly where the edges of the bit are, you could simply mark the workpiece, then use the marks to align with the marks you make for the location of the dado. That would avoid having to move the track, so the dado edges will be parallel. If you move the track, I bet it would be practically impossible to get a parallel cut.

To get an exact fit, you'd lay the edge of the inserted piece on the target piece, and use a knife to mark the exact width. Line the router marks up and you'd have an exact fit dado. But I think you'd want to have a dedicated router so your base marks would stay aligned with the bit.

This is similar to my vaunted DadoWiz, which runs on a smaller track. The difference is the DadoWiz gap is far easier to set and the marks for several sizes of down cut spiral bits are factory set. The DadoWiz brand stopped production, but someone else is making a very similar device, but I can't recall the name of the small, specialty company just now.

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post #23 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-14-2018, 10:48 AM
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There is a whole lot of thought and ideas that have been presented in this thread, but for me, the exact width dado jig I showed early in this thread (post #7) has worked great. I have used it a lot building cabinets and other projects...about 70 of them.

Here is a link to my original thread showing my drawing and how I made mine slightly different than The Wood Whisperer.
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fix...-dado-jig.html
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Last edited by MT Stringer; 05-14-2018 at 10:49 AM. Reason: bad grammar
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post #24 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-14-2018, 12:53 PM
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@MT Stringer You're sure right about a variety of possible ways to skin the dado cat. Lots of thinking going on with this crew! Although I love my DadoWiz, it's no longer available, so your exact fit jig would be my choice if I didn't have the Wiz.

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post #25 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-14-2018, 01:11 PM
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There is a whole lot of thought and ideas that have been presented in this thread, but for me, the exact width dado jig I showed early in this thread (post #7) has worked great. I have used it a lot building cabinets and other projects...about 70 of them.

Here is a link to my original thread showing my drawing and how I made mine slightly different than The Wood Whisperer.
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fix...-dado-jig.html
Mike - gotta agree with your thoughts. An "exact fit dado jig" is, well, an "exact fit dado jig". I haven't put together one as fancy as yours, but the other day, I was helping a friend put together a wine rack that fits inside an open cabinet. We needed to make 28 dados for the uprights that divided the openings so I threw a jig together in a hurry, making sure one end was perfectly square, then added a cross piece that was fit to the "exact" width of the material - I added a couple sheets of paper just to give it a little room in the dados. Since the dados were mirror images, end to end, I screwed down a stop block to his work bench (no worries, his bench is pretty beat up) and dadoed one end, flipped the pieces end for end then repeated. Each time I needed to move the dado, I simply reset the stop block. Worked like a charm. Using a top bearing bit, the beauty was, no offset calculations needed as you would with a bushing. Sometimes, in an attempt to help with suggestions, we forget about the KISS theory and overcomplicate things trying to re-invent the wheel.

Not saying other methods don't or won't work, but your jig is the simplest method out there.
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post #26 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-14-2018, 01:39 PM
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Just to add a little variety...

I made mine more adjustable for different angles. Functions the same way but a bit more versatile. I have used this to make any slot/dado for projects such as stringers, CD shelves (slots meeting at a V) and good ole bookshelves. For stringers, for example, I can account for a wedge of any size as the jig allows for non-parallel slots. Since not all slots are 90 deg's I figured I would make just one tool. I use a framing square when I need a 90...

I use a square base for a dedicated router and bit (since this forum convinced me no amount of routers is enough)...lots of help spending money...teehee...
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post #27 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-25-2020, 07:05 AM
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I use Bushing guided as in example #2. I've marked onto the jig, the bushing size and bit size for future reference. I like the track added (example #3) to use adjustable stops for stop dados. I also like (example #3) that the knobs are on the top...because the knobs on the top it allows you to place the jig under you work on the bench solidly, without having to hang off the bench. Using a bushing guided system allows me to use different length standard router bits, without the added expense of bearings.
Maybe it's too early and not enough coffee yet but I can't see a reason that the star knobs with just the nut in them wouldn't work. So the T bolt fixed to the underside and the knob on top. Seems simple, at least in my mind.
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post #28 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-25-2020, 07:09 AM
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If I was me, I would build one just like mine. Works great, no problems. Make it what ever size you want.
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fix...-dado-jig.html
That's the one I built and it does work well.
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post #29 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-05-2020, 11:41 PM
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(Late to the Party!)

I'm cutting 3/4 inch dadoes that book shelves will fit into (yes, they need to be 3/4" for the 10 foot long, 1 1/4" thick live edge slabs.)

The jigs in this thread seem to take up most of the router bit depth range with material thickness of the jig components.

I've gone to using a straight edge for that reason. If anyone has improved on the straight edge (for example, keeping it square) I'd love to hear it.
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post #30 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-06-2020, 02:42 AM
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You can make a T square type guide that would be a bit easier to use. You could use it with a pattern bit and that would still allow you to line the guide up to the marks you measure for shelf locations without having to calculate and measure an offset like you would need to do if you were using a straight bit and guide bushing combo. As long as the part that lays flat on your work is wide then it doesn't need to be thick. In other words it could be made from good quality ply as thin as say 5/16" thick if the ply was about 6" wide. That would make a guide that should work well for about 24" wide sides to your shelves which is as wide as you would likely ever make them.
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