Milescraft Circle Cutting Kit Question(s) - Router Forums
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-18-2018, 11:59 AM Thread Starter
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Default Milescraft Circle Cutting Kit Question(s)

I'm a total newbie to using a router. Last time was shop class in high school.

I'm building a poker table and borrowed my brother in laws black and decker 1hp plunge router, it is an RP200.

To cut the inside and outside diameters I bought the Milescraft Circle Cutting Kit version 1219.

Perhaps it is me but I cannot get the straight but to cut at the 3/4 inch depth. Any help would be greatly appreciated
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-18-2018, 12:32 PM
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welcome to the forums N/A..
your router bit is set too deep into the router..
but isn't long enough..
I hope you hogged your cuts 1st..

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-18-2018, 01:46 PM
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Hogging out means marking the circle, then using a jig saw to cut just a little outside the line you drew. Not more than 1/4 inch. Then you make passes with the bit, with a 1hp router, you will have to make many passes, and I'd limit it to 1/8th inch of depth per pass. That means you'll be extending the bit 5 times to cut through 3/4 inch of material.

You need to have the center of the jig securely affixed to the table's center. The easiest way to do this is to drill the center hole on the back side of the table so the hole isn't visible when the table is finished. Just driving a nail will allow for a little slop that will not only spoil the circumference, but interfere with having the bit track exactly through multile depths

Alternatively, use a small piece of ply and double-sided-tape it to the underside of the table top. Pre drill a hole for the peg in the small piece. If you're fussy, you can take another same size piece and double stick tape it near the end of the circle cutting jig so the bit is going straight down into the top rather than at a slight angle. The closer you rough cut to your marked line, the more you can remove with the router, but again, 1hp is a pretty low power tool.

Hope all that makes sense.

BTW, the biggest hassle you may have is the power cord getting in the way. I tend to hang the cord from a swivel clip (amazon has them) above the workbench so it stays out of the way and doesn't tangle.

The more I do, the less I accomplish.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-18-2018, 04:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertRatTom View Post

BTW, the biggest hassle you may have is the power cord getting in the way. I tend to hang the cord from a swivel clip (amazon has them) above the workbench so it stays out of the way and doesn't tangle.
Pat Warner, in the instructions for his circle cutting guide (which is very similar to the Milescraft in it's general design), recommends cutting 180 - 200° CW, then reversing and cutting the rest of the circle CCW - this minimizes tangling of the cord.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-18-2018, 10:17 PM
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Welcome to the forum.

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Enjoy the knowledge of others that can be found within.

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-18-2018, 11:59 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertRatTom View Post
Hogging out means marking the circle, then using a jig saw to cut just a little outside the line you drew. Not more than 1/4 inch. Then you make passes with the bit, with a 1hp router, you will have to make many passes, and I'd limit it to 1/8th inch of depth per pass. That means you'll be extending the bit 5 times to cut through 3/4 inch of material.

You need to have the center of the jig securely affixed to the table's center. The easiest way to do this is to drill the center hole on the back side of the table so the hole isn't visible when the table is finished. Just driving a nail will allow for a little slop that will not only spoil the circumference, but interfere with having the bit track exactly through multile depths

Alternatively, use a small piece of ply and double-sided-tape it to the underside of the table top. Pre drill a hole for the peg in the small piece. If you're fussy, you can take another same size piece and double stick tape it near the end of the circle cutting jig so the bit is going straight down into the top rather than at a slight angle. The closer you rough cut to your marked line, the more you can remove with the router, but again, 1hp is a pretty low power tool.

Hope all that makes sense.

BTW, the biggest hassle you may have is the power cord getting in the way. I tend to hang the cord from a swivel clip (amazon has them) above the workbench so it stays out of the way and doesn't tangle.
Thank you all for the welcome, I should post in that thread and will.

I appreciate the info, I assumed I had to have the bit set fully in the collet. Will give it a go tommorow.

For the kit it has the pivot and a screw etc. Since all pieces will be upholstered I'm not too worried about the pivot hole.

The pivot hole is centered at 24" from an end and 24" centered from each side. Hadn't bothered to draw an arc, I used scrap 1/4" to test centeredness.

Will report back how it goes!
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-19-2018, 12:03 AM
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Quote:
I assumed I had to have the bit set fully in the collet.
an inch is all you need...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"SNORK Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy”
Stick486 is online now  
post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-19-2018, 07:09 AM
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Welcome to the forum N/a
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-19-2018, 07:10 AM
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Welcome aboard
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-19-2018, 09:33 AM
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Welcome to the forum.

"The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits". Albert Einstein
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