I'm building the second of two rifle boxes. The first one was made with mitered corners and keyed dovetails. Thought I'd give Lock Miters a try this time.
As most will know, a Lock Miter joint is cut on with one piece ran vertically across the bit, using the fence, and the mating piece is ran horizontally, flat on the table. The pieces for the rifle box ends are 12 x 6 x 5/8 and, the sides are 46 x 6 x 5/8. I was concerned about stability of the 12" high piece riding against the 2 1/2" high fence. And also, maintaining an accurate cut on the ends of the 46" long sides.
Here are a few pictures of how I've attempted to allay my concerns.
The first two show a fence with an added auxiliary fence for more height. That auxiliary fence came with the stock fence from Jointec. I rides in a T track on top of the stock fence and is secured in back with brackets and T bolts. Then another fence that slides on the auxiliary fence was added. That fence has a block at the back edge to help with stability as the work passes the bit. You can see that my paranoia also led me to clamp the work.
That yellow apparatus is/are four plastic feather boards from Harbor Freight. They are stuck together with fibered carped tape. Two 4" 1/4 20 T bolts secure whole thing to a T track milled into the cross table clamp. Also from Jointec. It was their method for mounting thinner feather boards, as the table doesn't have an embedded T track.
The next two pictures show two views of the "coping sled" supplied by Jointech. It is guided by the T track on the top of the fence. That's where their Auxiliary fence is mounted.
A 2' 2X3 was mounted to the coping device to provide stability for the long pieces. This is the first time I have wished for a T track in the table. A miter gauge would sure be handier.
First test flight tomorrow. I'll report my successes or, lack thereof, later.
Thanks for looking.