Making a Matching Radius on a Piece - Router Forums
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-01-2019, 05:40 AM Thread Starter
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Default Making a Matching Radius on a Piece

I have cut a groove 3/4" wide 1/8" deep in a piece of wood with a 3/4" straight router bit. So both ends of this have a radius or round where I stopped. I need to make a matching piece to fit fairly perfect in this groove.I can rip a piece the right width but how do I make the radius or round end? I tried cutting and then sanding but I was wondering if there is a better or simpler way.
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-01-2019, 07:09 AM
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square the radius..
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-01-2019, 08:18 AM
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Photos 6 & 7 of this pdf show how I made a simple jig for rounding ends of stool legs which made them all identical. I'm sure that it would be easy to adapt this idea for your needs.
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File Type: pdf The making of a folding stool as seen on a YouTube video.pdf (708.1 KB, 88 views)
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-01-2019, 09:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harrysin View Post
Photos 6 & 7 of this pdf show how I made a simple jig for rounding ends of stool legs which made them all identical. I'm sure that it would be easy to adapt this idea for your needs.
Nice jig work. I love jigs. They are a big part of the fun, figuring out how to hold and manipulate parts to achieve a goal. I did something quite similar for sanding gears to the desired radii recently. The jig had multiple holes for the center pin for the four different sizes I was making.

The base plated was adjustable for setting the "final" distance of the center pins from the sanding belt. The upper plate rotated in the slot to allow progressively reducing the radius until the end of the slot was reached, which set the final radius. The radii of the gears were a consistent 1" apart.

Mike's situation may be different in that he may not want a hole in the ends of his piece. That would require making a jig that would rotate but where the part to be sanded would be captured without using a pin/center hole.

The base on which the part to be rounded is clamped would have to rotate on some sort of pivot point. The part to be rounded would need to be clamped on that pivot plate such that the end of it was centered over that pivot point. The whole assembly would need some manner of bringing the pivoting plate/part closer to the sanding disk/belt as the radius is sanded down.

Nice challenge. Please keep us posted on your progress.

Rick
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-01-2019, 03:53 PM
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Another option is to route a 3/8" radius on the corner of a template and use the template to route the radius on the ends of your inlay piece. The template piece needs to start with a 90 degree corner. Measure 3/8" down each edge and make marks there. Draw lines perpendicular to the edges. Where the lines intersect drill a small hole....this will be the pivot point. Put a sacrificial piece under this template piece and clamp it to your router table. Drill a hole in the sacrificial piece (don't drill all the way through) the same size as you made in the template. Put a small nail or flat end of a drill bit through the template and into the sacrificial piece. Position the router bit and fence so that the fence will stop the template as it is rotated counter clockwise into the router bit creating the radius. Attach radiused template to your inlay piece and use a flush trim or pattern bit to transfer the radius.
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-01-2019, 05:19 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone..I believe I can work this out now.
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-01-2019, 09:55 PM
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Along the lines of what Jim said. Buy a length of 3/4 dowel rod at the hardware store. Cut a straight piece for a template that is 3/4" wide, same as the groove. Cut a slice off the dowel rod the same thickness and then cut it in half and glue that half to the end of the straight piece for your template. Now you can clamp it to your runners and use a flush trim or pattern bit to round the ends. Nip the corners off the end of the runners first and that will make it easier to rout.
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-02-2019, 03:31 AM Thread Starter
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Oh gosh I love this...I have never used a pattern making bit...Love learning new stuff...Thanks!
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-02-2019, 08:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JIMMIEM View Post
Another option is to route a 3/8" radius on the corner of a template and use the template to route the radius on the ends of your inlay piece. The template piece needs to start with a 90 degree corner. Measure 3/8" down each edge and make marks there. Draw lines perpendicular to the edges. Where the lines intersect drill a small hole....this will be the pivot point. Put a sacrificial piece under this template piece and clamp it to your router table. Drill a hole in the sacrificial piece (don't drill all the way through) the same size as you made in the template. Put a small nail or flat end of a drill bit through the template and into the sacrificial piece. Position the router bit and fence so that the fence will stop the template as it is rotated counter clockwise into the router bit creating the radius. Attach radiused template to your inlay piece and use a flush trim or pattern bit to transfer the radius.
You mean something like this?
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 01-02-2019, 08:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RickKr View Post
Nice jig work. I love jigs. They are a big part of the fun, figuring out how to hold and manipulate parts to achieve a goal. I did something quite similar for sanding gears to the desired radii recently. The jig had multiple holes for the center pin for the four different sizes I was making.

The base plated was adjustable for setting the "final" distance of the center pins from the sanding belt. The upper plate rotated in the slot to allow progressively reducing the radius until the end of the slot was reached, which set the final radius. The radii of the gears were a consistent 1" apart.

Mike's situation may be different in that he may not want a hole in the ends of his piece. That would require making a jig that would rotate but where the part to be sanded would be captured without using a pin/center hole.

The base on which the part to be rounded is clamped would have to rotate on some sort of pivot point. The part to be rounded would need to be clamped on that pivot plate such that the end of it was centered over that pivot point. The whole assembly would need some manner of bringing the pivoting plate/part closer to the sanding disk/belt as the radius is sanded down.

Nice challenge. Please keep us posted on your progress.

Rick
A suitable panel pin would leave a tiny hole easily filled in.
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