How To Secure A moulding Into A Holding Jig - Router Forums
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-13-2019, 09:28 AM Thread Starter
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Default How To Secure A moulding Into A Holding Jig

Jigs & Fixtures seemed to be an appropriate place to post this.

I'm putting together a holding jig for some moulding to practice egg & dart carving on.I've routered up several of these strips to practice on and will continue making them up until I get good at carving various mouldings.

I used a hot melt glue gun last night to hold the strip at the back in position. When I clamped it in position for glue up, thought everything was fine. This morning though I see is not a square join. At the front of the moulding I can't glue a strip down then use a wedge set up to hold the moulding in position as too low, and any fence, wedge arrangement there, might get in the way of my carving hands.

I was thinking of using double sided tape to firmly hold the moulding in position. Problem there is, when use denatured alcohol, white spirit to release, then that would release the hot melt glued bit of timber at back.
This bit of timber at back I have just bought some suitable wood screws, will apply alcohol to wood to release hot melt glue then screw the wood into position.

I could then use double sided tape to firmly hold the moulding in position.
That said, I don't think trying to get alcohol into the join seam to release the double sided tape will work very well.
I looked at welder type C clamps and spring clamps to hold in position,don't think either would work.
Has anyone ideas how I can hold the moulding firmly in position,without a clamp, whatever getting in the way?
I attach photos of holding jig.
Thanks.
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Last edited by Gaia; 02-13-2019 at 09:30 AM.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-13-2019, 09:47 AM
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Have you considered reconfiguring your jig so as to screw into the back of your moulding through the jig...?

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-13-2019, 11:34 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Nickp View Post
Have you considered reconfiguring your jig so as to screw into the back of your moulding through the jig...?
I had't thought of doing it like that, thanks. Would need to clamp the moulding firmly down in position, then drill some holes in the fence behind it. Then screws through the fence, then screw them into the back of the moulding.
Some of the moulding I've done is thicker than one in photo. I might be able to put it through the router and get a new mould to practice with on the other face Though after I've routed the profile I think the screw holes from practicing before would show.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-13-2019, 11:49 AM
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I had't thought of doing it like that, thanks. Would need to clamp the moulding firmly down in position, then drill some holes in the fence behind it. Then screws through the fence, then screw them into the back of the moulding.
Some of the moulding I've done is thicker than one in photo. I might be able to put it through the router and get a new mould to practice with on the other face Though after I've routed the profile I think the screw holes from practicing before would show.
To make it easier, drill the holes in the jig larger than the screws...it will make it easier to drill into the molding and hold it flatter to the jig...

You could also pre-drill the molding so that it does not split...use the thinnest screw possible...and use the holes in the jig to mark the location of the pre-drill in the molding...

Good luck...Nick

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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-13-2019, 12:03 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickp View Post
To make it easier, drill the holes in the jig larger than the screws...it will make it easier to drill into the molding and hold it flatter to the jig...

You could also pre-drill the molding so that it does not split...use the thinnest screw possible...and use the holes in the jig to mark the location of the pre-drill in the molding...

Good luck...Nick
I'm thinking of using round head screws with washers.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-13-2019, 12:06 PM
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I'm thinking of using round head screws with washers.

Definitely better than tapered head screws...will not ever split the fence wood...
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-13-2019, 12:18 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickp View Post
To make it easier, drill the holes in the jig larger than the screws...it will make it easier to drill into the molding and hold it flatter to the jig...

You could also pre-drill the molding so that it does not split...use the thinnest screw possible...and use the holes in the jig to mark the location of the pre-drill in the molding...

Good luck...Nick
I'm thinking I'll use a brad point drill bit, to do the holes in the back fence, larger diameter than the screws I'll use.
Then use the same brad point to make a mark on back of moulding where to pre drill, also will use self tappers as well.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-13-2019, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Gaia View Post
I'm thinking I'll use a brad point drill bit, to do the holes in the back fence, larger diameter than the screws I'll use.
Then use the same brad point to make a mark on back of moulding where to pre drill, also will use self tappers as well.

NICE...! Have fun and be safe...

Nick

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-13-2019, 12:26 PM Thread Starter
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OK cheers I think I'm about there
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 08:56 AM
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You could use clamps such as these or make the wood wider and nail it down on the edge. After the carving is done cut it to the correct width.


https://www.rockler.com/clamps/toggle-clamps
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