Dovetail Jigs for hand held routers - Page 2 - Router Forums
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 03-28-2019, 09:43 PM
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I think your question is how to make by jig work for box joints. Sometimes the correct answer to to toss it and get something else. These type dovetail jigs do a good job of dovetails but are lousy at anything else. I have an I-Box from Incra and it makes flawless box joints. I also have a 25" Incra positioner that can make them but the I-Box is so simple and elegant. You have an initial adjustment but after it is set up you just put it on the table saw, adjust the blade height and bam you are making box joints. There are many ways to skin a cat and in the end you have a skined cat. But usually the real question is what is the most efficient way to skin a cat. In the case of box joints your skinned cat is the I-Box.

If you really want the PC jig to work then cut some plywood the same width as your project, mark your inner and outer sides and number the sides to see how to get your grain match the way you want it. When you perfect the operation with the plywood you will be a master of the jig and can make it on your good project work. There is no better teacher than repetition.
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-01-2019, 04:42 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by gdonham1 View Post
If you really want the PC jig to work then cut some plywood the same width as your project, mark your inner and outer sides and number the sides to see how to get your grain match the way you want it. When you perfect the operation with the plywood you will be a master of the jig and can make it on your good project work. There is no better teacher than repetition.
I really appreciate your input and now that my shop is re-wired and the house exterior work complete that was and is my plan, 'perfect the operation of the jig" I will Post and relay the information so those cutting through dovetails and box joints on similar jigs will have that to work with.
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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-01-2019, 05:48 PM Thread Starter
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I think your question is how to make by jig work for box joints. Sometimes the correct answer to to toss it and get something else. These type dovetail jigs do a good job of dovetails but are lousy at anything else. I have an I-Box from Incra and it makes flawless box joints. I also have a 25" Incra positioner that can make them but the I-Box is so simple and elegant. You have an initial adjustment but after it is set up you just put it on the table saw, adjust the blade height and bam you are making box joints. There are many ways to skin a cat and in the end you have a skined cat. But usually the real question is what is the most efficient way to skin a cat. In the case of box joints your skinned cat is the I-Box.
Guy I don't disagree with you but hear me out (short version). Speaking only for myself, if your not careful your spending most all of your "Shop Time" building jigs If you can) or your buying the jig that you didn't want to take the time to build in the first place. Now if you have a lot of "Shop Time" or a lot of money to buy the next shiney jig then more power to you. My shop time is limited as well as my shop money.

In this particular case "dovetail jig" I spent $180 9 years ago for a multi joint nice PC 4212 jig. After a year or 2 I had stopped using it. Now in 2019 I decided to pick it back up for the same reason I bought it... to have the choice of multiple joints to use in making boxes. My question in Posting was about the orientation to end up so the grain would line up. No one had the detailed answer but you took the time and kindly answered the smart rational way for me to find the answer, again thank you.

Just a little bit more. In late 2018 I wanted to replace my shop made table saw sled with a brand name sled and one with an extremely accurate miter. The final 2 choices were Incra or The Dubby and (Right or Wrong) I went with the later mainly because I was using it for Frames it came out cheaper in the long run. Now Incra is jam up and its jigs have the same quality. If I had gone with Incra I would have gone with the best one(5000?) and added the box joint and I think they have a wooden hinge accessory. So with money in mind I went with the $180 Dubby and Did not spend the $329 for the 5000 decided to use my PC 4212 for box joints, through dovetails half blind dovetails and not buy Incra's for $170 but put the wooden hinge thingy on the wish list.

Is Incra the best fastest way to make box joints? Yes you are right. Are there better through dovetail jigs yes especially for the router table absolutely.

For me If I don't watch myself I end up taking way too much time building jigs which many are not often used or buying new jigs one after the other.
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-01-2019, 09:27 PM
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Purchasing tools is a very individual thing. Up until 2017, money was available for buying stuff, but today I'm having to watch my spending much more closely. I want to spend my money now on wood since I now have time to make stuff. So I understand what you're saying very well. Fortunately, I got the I-box during flush times, now I need to sell off my Rockler jig (with dust collection attachment) because my brain is no longer good at figuring the damn thing out, and I don't like doing anything freehand with a router.

I just downloaded the instructions for the Rockler jig, which includes some hints on laying out the box. I also downloaded the instructions for the PC 4212 as well as a supplemtal instruction book. Hope these are helpful.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Rockler-Complete-Dovetail-Jig-Instructions.pdf (1,009.1 KB, 8 views)
File Type: pdf Porter Cable dovetail jig instructions 1.pdf (1.46 MB, 6 views)
File Type: pdf Porter Cable dovetail jig instructions 2.pdf (2.13 MB, 7 views)
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-06-2019, 10:47 AM
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I bought the 4216 . It worked quite well for miniature box joints . I left them slightly proud for a log cabin type look
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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 04-16-2019, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Marco View Post
When cutting box joints on my PC4216 Dovetail Jig, I am looking to keep my board orientation cut in the correct order so that the grain I choose for the outside of a box will be as planned/marked. Believe it or not the manual leaves a piece or two of information out. I have searched and searched and the closest I have come is from Rockler's Dovetail jig manual referring to through Dovetails.... Tails out, Pins in in reference to the inside of the box and how it's orientation to the jig.

Apart from the 'Router Workshop' jig, the best dovetail, box/finger joint jig is, IMHO, the Gifkins jig.


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post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old 05-01-2019, 08:50 PM
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Randy thanks for the input. The Box Joint is the same template as the Dovetail on the PC 4212 so the question of orientating the sides would be the same for both. I am near the end of re-doing my shop and the exterior of the house and when done will be taking yy big hard head and beat it against the jig until I get my answers and come closer to mastering the jig.

I had planned to make or buy a box joint jig for the table saw but refused to after I had spent $180 for one for the router years ago..... Hard headed and cheap are not a good combination.
Marco,

Guess I didn't see your response. When I see videos of box joints being made on a table saw and how simple the jigs are to make for the saw, I always wonder why I continue to make box joints with my Incra tools on my router table. I've always liked doing things on the router instead of the table saw when I have a choice (dadoes, half lap joints, box joints, etc.)
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