Maintaining Grain Orientation with Box/Dovetail Jigs - Page 2 - Router Forums
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 04-08-2019, 05:06 PM
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Thanks for the detailed information Charley... When I get back in the shop I will give it a go with a bit of confidence.

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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-02-2019, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by CharleyL View Post
A triangle on the face side written with chalk or on a piece of blue tape is how I do it. Inside the triangle I put a number indication, 1 being the front and then going counter clockwise from there. The top point of the triangle indicates "up". This keeps all of the pieces orientated and sequenced correctly, the odd numbers are always the front and back and the even numbers are always the sides. I begin cutting each piece in sequence for the grain to follow counter clockwise around the box and mark each piece on the face side with the number and triangle pointing toward the top edge. From then on I depend on these markings to keep the pieces oriented and sequenced correctly.

When making a box using box joints I always cut both ends the same, so the bottom always begins with a pin. The front and back then always begin with the space, and both ends of each pair are cut the same. The odd panel numbers are the front and back and the even numbered panels are the ends. You face the marked side out during assembly and always decide which way is "Up" by the point on the triangle marking.

I use a similar method when doing dovetails. The tails get cut on the even numbers and the pins get cut on the odd numbers. Since I have a Leigh D4R jig with variable pin and tail spacing, I always put the pin on the bottom of the odd numbered and the first tail on the bottom of the even numbered sides.

Keeping everything labeled the same way and always working with this same marking sequence keeps me from making mistakes and all 4 sides of the box that I'm making have continuous grain around their corners, of course, with the grain not matching in the left rear corner where the two ends of the original board come together, but all of the other three sides will have the matching grain around the corners.

The trick is to develop a marking and sequencing method that works for you, and then stick with this method every time you will build a box. Use my method or something similar every time and you will have great results.

Charley
I finally got everything settled with the house-shop - Dust collection for the Dovetail jig etc. etc. and was able to concentrate on the labeling and sequence you laid out for box joints/dovetails and it came out great. Thanks for giving the time to lay out your system so others could adapt yours to their woodworking system. The problem I was having was for some reason I would end up either flipping one end to end instead of rotating it or having it facing the wrong way from the jig.

I was able to make a DC Jig for my PC 4216 Dovetail jig that actually works pretty good. I'll post some pics of the DC Jig and some boxes shortly.

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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-03-2019, 07:14 PM
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Charly's information on how to mark the boards works when you pay attention to what you are doing through the entire process including cutting the boards. The front and back on one side of the jig and the ends on the other with 2 facing the jig while the other 2 facing out. Below is a quick box to see if I could mark the boards correctly and then cut them correctly. It worked fine. Not shown is the second box that I messed up because the last board I cut I flipped end to end instead of rotating. As a couple have mentioned work the jig until you figure it out and then master it... I'm still working on it.

Below the 3 box pics are 2 pic of the DC Jig for the Dovetail Jig. It collects 95% and isn't a P.I.T.A. to use. I'll start a new thread on it's general construction.
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