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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 02:17 PM Thread Starter
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Question Router Lathe

Has anyone did any thing with the Router Lathe?
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 05:39 PM
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no...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

Stick....
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 07:00 PM
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That's a pretty specialized tool. Haven't needed to make what they produce. Here's a link with basic information on the tool.

https://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-a-router-lathe.htm

The more I do, the less I accomplish.
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 09:36 PM
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I've used a Legacy Ornamental Mill for a bunch of projects, essentially a router lathe

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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019, 11:39 PM
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Default "router lathe"

Yes, I have a Craftsman Rputer-Lathe from the 1980's that I use to make spindles (and half spindles) with spirals and other decorative patterns. What is it that you wish to know about this fixture/machine?
I have previously posted photos of a six drawer sewing spool cabinet that I made for my wife that has decorative half spindles with a spiral pattern. I will try to add one photo to this post.
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It seems that I am not able to post photo into this thread.

Last edited by jaguar1201; 06-14-2019 at 11:55 PM. Reason: can't post photo
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-15-2019, 07:15 AM
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I want to modify my router lathe so that I can add a template or item to copy, at the exact distance that the router is from the pivot point
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-16-2019, 06:17 PM
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Hentie, I have an old Vermont American model that I have not used in about 30 years, after I got a lathe. I used to do twists and open spirals on it. From what I remember, one could use a template, but the template follower is at the front of the router carriage.
I don’t see how it could be otherwise. If the follower were in the midline, where would you place the template? The workpiece is in the midline.

If you are worried that the workpiece diameter will be smaller than that of the template, because of the “pantograph” effect of having the follower at the front, you can compensate by adjusting the bit height, or by increasing the template diameter, but the calculation involved in doing so, is beyond me. Trial and error, in my ignorance.

I do remember having some dissatisfaction with the bit not being perpendicular to the workpiece throughout its travel, because the carriage pivots on the rear rail, and the tip of the bit therefore travels through an arc. This was only a major problem when cutting open spirals - the spirals landed up having a “rhomboid” cross-section. For surface decoration (e.g. diamonds cut with a twist and reverse twist) it was not that noticeable.
I had had a vague notion of making a parallelogram-based carriage to try and keep the bit travel perpendicular to the workpiece axis, but the model I have is very basic, with a fixed ratio of turn to travel, so probably not worth it.
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-16-2019, 10:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaguar1201 View Post
It seems that I am not able to post photo into this thread.
Use the Advanced Reply and click on Manage Attachments Rick.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-16-2019, 11:40 PM
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Default What model Router-Crafter do you own?

Larry,
You have not said what make/model of "Router Crafter" you own. Is it a Craftsman or its English brother? If so, the operator manual details how to mount a linear template across the front base of the fixture/machine. By linear template, I mean the a profile template of the desired shape of cross-section if a plane were cut through the centerline of the work piece.
Rick
I am trying again to upload a photo of the spiral half spindles on the spool cabinet that I made for my wife.
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 06-17-2019, 02:36 AM
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Biagio, My router lathe is one of the newer tork craft ones, it doesnt have a place to mount templates, except I can put a screw in to turn cylinders(that will run on one of the rails). I have downloaded the manuals for the original craftsman router lathe, and I completely understand regarding the pantograph effect. Because the following pin is saw twice the distance, the high spots needs to be twice the distance you want it to be. In addition, you cannot mount an existing item (table leg, baseball bat, etc) and you have to create a template for everything.

Now - think outside the box. Think see-saw. if you extend the router carriage to the other side and put the pin/follower at the exact distance your router bit is from the hinge, and your pin will ride at the bottom of the Template or existing item

it doesn't even need to be straight, as long as it is fixed. top left is what the first thinking is, but if the router gets in the way, you can do it like the picture below. on the right is where and how - it doesn't have to be a plate. it just needs to be sturdy

Does the picture make sense?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Biagio View Post
Hentie, I have an old Vermont American model that I have not used in about 30 years, after I got a lathe. I used to do twists and open spirals on it. From what I remember, one could use a template, but the template follower is at the front of the router carriage.
I don’t see how it could be otherwise. If the follower were in the midline, where would you place the template? The workpiece is in the midline.

If you are worried that the workpiece diameter will be smaller than that of the template, because of the “pantograph” effect of having the follower at the front, you can compensate by adjusting the bit height, or by increasing the template diameter, but the calculation involved in doing so, is beyond me. Trial and error, in my ignorance.

I do remember having some dissatisfaction with the bit not being perpendicular to the workpiece throughout its travel, because the carriage pivots on the rear rail, and the tip of the bit therefore travels through an arc. This was only a major problem when cutting open spirals - the spirals landed up having a “rhomboid” cross-section. For surface decoration (e.g. diamonds cut with a twist and reverse twist) it was not that noticeable.
I had had a vague notion of making a parallelogram-based carriage to try and keep the bit travel perpendicular to the workpiece axis, but the model I have is very basic, with a fixed ratio of turn to travel, so probably not worth it.
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