Craftex CT052 12" Dovetail Jig - Page 3 - Router Forums
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post #21 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-02-2010, 09:18 AM Thread Starter
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Ron

After spending two days on this I do know exactly what you are talking about. My problem was the depth stop on the router. I was not set properly and once I had the stop done it did work. I have one dresser and want to do through dovetails and this jig wont do it.

The jig also will not work on material less than 5/8" think or less and I want my back piece to be 1/2" thick. Anything for my eye looks to thick.

Size of the drawers width wise is also a problem. I see why it is faster to cut by hand because I have three different size drawers. So by the time I reset the jig I would have been better off cutting the joints by hand.

Craftex 7/16" bushing was not seating itself in the router base plate it moved around on me I had to buy a PC bushing. Personally most of the stuff I find there is sub par in my honest opinion and the people there just sell the stuff rather than actually know what they are selling let alone use any of it.

I was very disappointed with the manual and like I stated there are two manuals from what I have seen on the same jig. The one that comes with the jig is different than the downloaded one. The precise measurement is different for setting the depth of cut and hence why I had so many problems with it initially. I would venture to say if someone like Harry Sin wrote the manual more people would be able to use it and not kill many trees in the process.

I see your point on a dedicated router and agree 100%. I was looking at getting one for the job but now that J has shown me the EX Pro Dovetail jig I will try using this in the router table and dedicate it as my dovetail jig. This jig looks like the pieces can be different size and be changed quickly.

Well I need to have a rest and hope the hair I pulled out along the way will grow back. I thin I can wash the grey right out of my hair or at least hum the tune as I work on hand cutting dovetails in the shop.

Thanks for the reply Ron and Happy belated Canada Day!
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post #22 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-02-2010, 11:26 AM
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Hi Guys

Just one note the EZ Dovetail jig will do both types of dovetails ( Blind and Through dovetails) with the same jig and and same finger template ,by using a longer dovetail bit ,the cutting blades on the dovetail bit need to be as tall as the wood ( say Through dovetails on 3/4" long cutters needed) the norm is 7 deg.or 8 deg. bit..they do look a bit strange but they work well..

16 pc 1/4 Shank Dovetail Router Bit Set For Leigh Jig - eBay (item 140422900315 end time Jul-08-10 11:00:04 PDT)

http://cgi.ebay.com/2-pc-Dovetail-Ro...item1e5c9fdb29

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Last edited by bobj3; 07-02-2010 at 11:40 AM.
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post #23 of 26 (permalink) Old 07-02-2010, 01:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRN_Diesel View Post
Ron

After spending two days on this I do know exactly what you are talking about. My problem was the depth stop on the router. I was not set properly and once I had the stop done it did work. I have one dresser and want to do through dovetails and this jig wont do it.

The jig also will not work on material less than 5/8" think or less and I want my back piece to be 1/2" thick. Anything for my eye looks to thick.

Size of the drawers width wise is also a problem. I see why it is faster to cut by hand because I have three different size drawers. So by the time I reset the jig I would have been better off cutting the joints by hand.

Craftex 7/16" bushing was not seating itself in the router base plate it moved around on me I had to buy a PC bushing. Personally most of the stuff I find there is sub par in my honest opinion and the people there just sell the stuff rather than actually know what they are selling let alone use any of it.

I was very disappointed with the manual and like I stated there are two manuals from what I have seen on the same jig. The one that comes with the jig is different than the downloaded one. The precise measurement is different for setting the depth of cut and hence why I had so many problems with it initially. I would venture to say if someone like Harry Sin wrote the manual more people would be able to use it and not kill many trees in the process.

I see your point on a dedicated router and agree 100%. I was looking at getting one for the job but now that J has shown me the EX Pro Dovetail jig I will try using this in the router table and dedicate it as my dovetail jig. This jig looks like the pieces can be different size and be changed quickly.

Well I need to have a rest and hope the hair I pulled out along the way will grow back. I thin I can wash the grey right out of my hair or at least hum the tune as I work on hand cutting dovetails in the shop.

Thanks for the reply Ron and Happy belated Canada Day!
Hi Dan
What size are the drawers you plan to make? What size drawer material are you using all 1/2" or just the backs of the drawers?

For half-blinds once your jig is set up you should not have to reset anything even when changing drawer sizes or thicknesses. If you follow the sizing increments for each drawer your joint will come out symmetrical with half pins top & bottom. You can even change thickness of material with same setup because all machining is reference from inside of drawer.

I have a Porter Cable jig setup for half-blind dovetails & a dedicated PC 690 router just for these joints. I have not touched the settings in either since initial setup. The drawers I make the most often are usually hard maple drawers machined down to 5/8" with half-blind dovetails. I can use any thickness for half-blinds from 1/2" to 1-1/8" & up to 11-1/4" wide joint without changing any of the setup. I'm sure many of the other jigs this size will have close to the same capabilities.

For the through dovetails I have two routers I will use for these for each bit. I still do not have to change the jig once setup for the different height drawers. For different thickness of material I change the depth to machine though.

You could always ask to use your friends jig for your project to get your feet wet & give it a spin. I know some jigs are easier to get used to than others, but once you figure your own jig out it's not that complicated anymore. The Woodsmith video is informative to watch also.

Tools and Woodworking - Router Forums

James
Whittier, CA.

Have a nice & safe day!

Last edited by jlord; 07-02-2010 at 06:43 PM.
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post #24 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-13-2018, 05:51 PM
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I would have totally agree with you - I've spent more time fixing the tool that getting anything out of it. Most the knobs have come loose and of course in in the middle of
routing a nice piece of walnut that now I can throw away. Totally disappointed in this jig hoping there's a better one out there.

Bear Wood
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post #25 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-13-2018, 08:10 PM
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This is an old thread, but I am sorry to hear about your experience. After all the hassle with Dovetail joints and jigs and set-ups, and dedicated routers, I came to the conclusion that I like Box Joints best cut on the table saw with the Freud box joint blade. I have a simple homemade jig and it is easy and fast to set up and gives me consistant and acceptable results.
Herb
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post #26 of 26 (permalink) Old 01-13-2018, 08:32 PM
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I'm like Herb in that I'm okay with the finger/box joint. I bought the Ibox jig after using a home made one for a while. The Ibox has the advantage that you can set it according the cut width instead of setting the cut width according to what is required by the jig.

If I was going to buy a DT jig I think I would save up and buy a Leigh. You'd have to search to find a bad comment about them.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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