Peachtree 15 inch dovetail jig - Router Forums
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-24-2010, 09:04 PM Thread Starter
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Default Peachtree 15 inch dovetail jig

Went to the woodworking show today and darn it, Peachtree had a heckuva salesman there (I fell for it). I originally went looking for something else, but bought this instead. It is a 15" dovetail jig that can be used either clamped to the board or used upside down on the router table. This tradeshow package deal also included the dovetail and straight router bits, block of MDF with routed dadoes, the clamping jig (2 t-slot extrusions and 2 clamps), and a DVD for $167 out the door price including taxes.

Peachtree dovetail jig

The guy used it without measuring the wood width (he eyeballed the center), and he closed his eyes while he used it, in other words it was fool-proof. (Obviously this is after the initial set-up of screwing the aluminum to the block of wood)

Anyways, I came to see if anybody has had any experience with it. I searched and didn't find the Peachtree jig, but the Katie and Gifkin jigs came up a few times. One thing I noticed after looking at those is that it would probably be a good idea to put a t-track on top so that I can set stop-blocks on it.

By the way, for those that search in the future for this jig, the DVD wasn't all that great because it is zoomed out so you can see the guy using it. This is useless because you can't see the details of the jig. Although these are different brands, the following 2 vids will help in using it I'm sure:

On this link, choose the "Dovetail Through Templates" video Dovetail Through Templates Video LINK

Gifkins jig LINK

And woundn't cha know it, Bob made his years ago: DoveTail Jig for the Router Table
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-25-2010, 08:50 AM
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Hi Paulo

Nice jig , the stop blocks on the top edge is almost a must have item, they keep all 4 parts lined up ...nothing will tick you off more than the parts are off that little bit at glue up time..doing a pair is no deal deal but doing more than one pair is tricky without the stop blocks in place..

I must be slow today because I don't get the clamps that came with the jig, what do they clamp looks like they clamp stock in the horz. and are a bit light for clamping the stock..box parts,they will want to move to your right when the bit runs into the stock..


==============

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Originally Posted by Noob View Post
Went to the woodworking show today and darn it, Peachtree had a heckuva salesman there (I fell for it). I originally went looking for something else, but bought this instead. It is a 15" dovetail jig that can be used either clamped to the board or used upside down on the router table. This tradeshow package deal also included the dovetail and straight router bits, block of MDF with routed dadoes, the clamping jig (2 t-slot extrusions and 2 clamps), and a DVD for $167 out the door price including taxes.

Peachtree dovetail jig

The guy used it without measuring the wood width (he eyeballed the center), and he closed his eyes while he used it, in other words it was fool-proof. (Obviously this is after the initial set-up of screwing the aluminum to the block of wood)

Anyways, I came to see if anybody has had any experience with it. I searched and didn't find the Peachtree jig, but the Katie and Gifkin jigs came up a few times. One thing I noticed after looking at those is that it would probably be a good idea to put a t-track on top so that I can set stop-blocks on it.

By the way, for those that search in the future for this jig, the DVD wasn't all that great because it is zoomed out so you can see the guy using it. This is useless because you can't see the details of the jig. Although these are different brands, the following 2 vids will help in using it I'm sure:

On this link, choose the "Dovetail Through Templates" video Dovetail Through Templates Video LINK

Gifkins jig LINK

And woundn't cha know it, Bob made his years ago: DoveTail Jig for the Router Table



"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-25-2010, 10:36 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobj3 View Post
Hi Paulo

Nice jig , the stop blocks on the top edge is almost a must have item, they keep all 4 parts lined up ...nothing will tick you off more than the parts are off that little bit at glue up time..doing a pair is no deal deal but doing more than one pair is tricky without the stop blocks in place..

I must be slow today because I don't get the clamps that came with the jig, what do they clamp looks like they clamp stock in the horz. and are a bit light for clamping the stock..box parts,they will want to move to your right when the bit runs into the stock..


==============
Thanks, I haven't "assembled" the jig together and tried it yet, but I'll definitely put a stop block on top.

Instead of having one long single clamp like in this pic:

Dovetail pic

this jig uses 2 clamps, one on the left and right side of your wood you're about to route. I did notice that many use a single F-style clamp on the Gifkins jig. If the 2 clamps don't work, I might just go ahead and use a long clamp made out of wood like you have on your pic.

I noticed that the Katie jig has a handle on it the left and right side to control it, not sure if adding something like that would be worthwhile:

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-25-2010, 11:23 AM
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Hi

Thanks for the feed back

I did try the handles out but I took them off, they got in my way, I don't remove the fence the norm because I use it for a stop board so I don't plow out the backer board so much on the jig..


=======


Quote:
Originally Posted by Noob View Post
Thanks, I haven't "assembled" the jig together and tried it yet, but I'll definitely put a stop block on top.

Instead of having one long single clamp like in this pic:

Dovetail pic

this jig uses 2 clamps, one on the left and right side of your wood you're about to route. I did notice that many use a single F-style clamp on the Gifkins jig. If the 2 clamps don't work, I might just go ahead and use a long clamp made out of wood like you have on your pic.

I noticed that the Katie jig has a handle on it the left and right side to control it, not sure if adding something like that would be worthwhile:




"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"

Marc Sommerfeld Tools ,Videos
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-n...RWaEpMA/videos

Find all threads started by bobj3
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-29-2010, 11:05 AM
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Just some snapshots of the stop blocks I use the to keep the bit from taking out the backer board.on the jig.


=========



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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-29-2010, 05:51 PM
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Default dovetails - with jigs and otherwise

I don't want to start a dovetail jig war here, Paulo, but I think you'll find dovetailers divided into three camps:

1. those who use jigs oriented to the router table,

2. those who use the more traditional jigs, like PC and Leigh, where the boards are clamped in the jig, and the router used free-hand with guide bushings, and

3. those who insist a proper dovetail must be hand-cut with (the proper) saw and chisel.

FWIW, I fall into Camp 2, using a PC 4200-series jig for fixed-space dovetails. The PC Omni Jig, and one of the Leighs, also allow variable spacing, coming closer to the custom look of hand-cut dovetails. I feel this type of jig offers better repeatability in the set-up for "production" type work. I also use two routers - one with the DT bit for the tails, and one for the straight bit for the pins. Once the depth is set properly on both routers, you can dovetail all day without further fiddling.

Obviously, however, there are plenty of folks in Camp 1 who are happy with their setups. Those in Camp 3 are usually folks involved in making "fine furniture" and custom pieces, where "machine-cut" dovetails would seem inappropriate.

I'd suggest looking at all three methods in fair detail, and then pick the method that seems most intuitive to you.

- Ralph
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-02-2010, 11:58 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bobj3 View Post
Just some snapshots of the stop blocks I use the to keep the bit from taking out the backer board.on the jig.


=========
Thanks again Bob, once again going the extra mile to help explain with pics, much appreciated!
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-02-2010, 12:18 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ralph Barker View Post
I don't want to start a dovetail jig war here, Paulo, but I think you'll find dovetailers divided into three camps:

1. those who use jigs oriented to the router table,

2. those who use the more traditional jigs, like PC and Leigh, where the boards are clamped in the jig, and the router used free-hand with guide bushings, and

3. those who insist a proper dovetail must be hand-cut with (the proper) saw and chisel.

Too bad, you've started a dovetail jig war and it's on!!!

I hear ya, there's more than one way to skin a man and everybody has there own preference. Everybody has different skill levels and preferences and some are doing woodworking as a hobby while some are doing it for profit. I honestly can't tell you which dovetail jig is better.

I do notice that a 12" Leigh jig is $250 at Rockler: Leigh Super 12'' Dovetail Jig LINK and cost can be prohibitive for some.

In all honesty, when I originally went to the woodworking show I wasn't looking for a dovetail jig. I was looking for a Milescraft spirograph-looking-jig that Bob has showed on here a few times. BUT like a fly attracted to a bug light, I saw the demonstration of this jig and couldn't resist it.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-02-2010, 12:29 PM
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Hi Paulo

Your Welcome, I do love the dovetail joints.

========

Quote:
Originally Posted by Noob View Post
Thanks again Bob, once again going the extra mile to help explain with pics, much appreciated!



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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-02-2010, 12:59 PM
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Hi Ralph

I must fit into all 3 groups,,I must have 20 jigs to put in the dovetails, I have put in the hand cut ones but they can so long, I don't recall seeing one that's perfect I have seen some real pro's. put them in place but they have errors also that's why I use the jigs all the time, most know I prefer the Katie jig over all the jigs made, you can make your own so easy and cheap and I have done that for peanuts.

I do prefer the router table way over all other ways the table holds the router for you unlike most of the other jigs, the trick is the the KISS way I think.. the dovetail is a very simple joint and a easy one to put in place if you use the right tool and no need to drop 200.oo plus to do the job..It's like the OP spacer jigs, I have seen many try and make box joints on the table saw and it cracks me up , if they saw how easy it can be done on the router table, the KISS way..I see many have started to make and sale copy cats of the OP jigs..

Talking about dovetail jigs here's one for only 50.oo that can do the job very easy and not cost a arm and a leg..and do it on the router table or the hand router.

The General Tools & Instruments Newsroom | The EZ Pro Dovetail Jig Instructional Videos



==========





Quote:
Originally Posted by Ralph Barker View Post
I don't want to start a dovetail jig war here, Paulo, but I think you'll find dovetailers divided into three camps:

1. those who use jigs oriented to the router table,

2. those who use the more traditional jigs, like PC and Leigh, where the boards are clamped in the jig, and the router used free-hand with guide bushings, and

3. those who insist a proper dovetail must be hand-cut with (the proper) saw and chisel.

FWIW, I fall into Camp 2, using a PC 4200-series jig for fixed-space dovetails. The PC Omni Jig, and one of the Leighs, also allow variable spacing, coming closer to the custom look of hand-cut dovetails. I feel this type of jig offers better repeatability in the set-up for "production" type work. I also use two routers - one with the DT bit for the tails, and one for the straight bit for the pins. Once the depth is set properly on both routers, you can dovetail all day without further fiddling.

Obviously, however, there are plenty of folks in Camp 1 who are happy with their setups. Those in Camp 3 are usually folks involved in making "fine furniture" and custom pieces, where "machine-cut" dovetails would seem inappropriate.

I'd suggest looking at all three methods in fair detail, and then pick the method that seems most intuitive to you.



"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"

Marc Sommerfeld Tools ,Videos
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-n...RWaEpMA/videos

Find all threads started by bobj3
http://www.routerforums.com/search.php?searchid=944097


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