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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-22-2011, 03:17 PM Thread Starter
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Default Regarding dado jigs

My name is Don Grant and I own a music shop that does orchestra instrument repair in Hesperia CA.

We are needing to repair a xylophone where the end pieces have sustained quit a bit of damage. The cross braces that support the tone bars are farther apart on the left where the low note tone bars are suspended and closer together on the right where the high bone bars are suspended. The joint of these cross bars requires a even depth dado at the center of the xylophone and and an angled depth dado on the outer edges of the xylophone.

Is there a reference in the recommendation for a setup jig to cut angled depth dado's?

Thanks
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-22-2011, 08:44 PM
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Greetings Don and welcome to the router forum. Thank you for joining us, and remember to have fun, build well and above all be safe.

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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-22-2011, 09:35 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the the warm welcome Jerry. Look forward to the sharing among us.

Don
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-22-2011, 11:19 PM
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G'day Don

Welcome to the router forum.

Thank you for joining us

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I don't profess to know everything, and I may learn something new.

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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-23-2011, 06:02 PM
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Hi Don

If you have a Dremel tool the item below will work for you I think.

Milescraft - Universal Power Tool Attachments & Accessories - Rotary Tools - Angle Plunge

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...1001&x=16&y=15

========

Quote:
Originally Posted by DGrant View Post
My name is Don Grant and I own a music shop that does orchestra instrument repair in Hesperia CA.

We are needing to repair a xylophone where the end pieces have sustained quit a bit of damage. The cross braces that support the tone bars are farther apart on the left where the low note tone bars are suspended and closer together on the right where the high bone bars are suspended. The joint of these cross bars requires a even depth dado at the center of the xylophone and and an angled depth dado on the outer edges of the xylophone.

Is there a reference in the recommendation for a setup jig to cut angled depth dado's?

Thanks



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Last edited by bobj3; 01-23-2011 at 06:06 PM.
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-24-2011, 02:36 AM Thread Starter
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I'm thinking of creating a typical dado jig that I would raise up on one side of the jig to allow the bit to cut the dado across the board on an angle. Has anyone done that with success?
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-24-2011, 10:34 AM
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Hi Don,
I've done it when making flutes on a piece by attaching a wedge to lift the router base at the end of a cut. You might be able to get the angle from the existing piece by lay a piece of material on top and scribing the existing dado onto it.
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-24-2011, 10:58 AM
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Hi Don

The jig below will put in angle dado's all day long..just need to lock in place with the knobs.
You can use the router table or the hand router.

OR buy one like below
http://mlcswoodworking.com/orderstat...scut_sled.html
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Last edited by bobj3; 01-24-2011 at 05:39 PM.
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-25-2011, 10:08 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the suggestions on my question.

The angle of the dado is not the angle across the plank but the uneven or angled depth of the dado itself. For instance, the cut is perpendicular to the edge of the plank and the cut is consistent across the plank, however the bottom of the dado is higher on one side of the groove and lower on the other.

I believe the answer is to create a jig that holds one side of the router higher which tilts the bit at the desired angle while making the cut across the plank.
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-25-2011, 10:22 AM
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Hi

You can make your own hill jig like below..
Video | Woodhaven

You don't need the high end Alum track just some 3/4" thick MDF will do the trick..for the hill..
=========

Quote:
Originally Posted by DGrant View Post
Thanks for the suggestions on my question.

The angle of the dado is not the angle across the plank but the uneven or angled depth of the dado itself. For instance, the cut is perpendicular to the edge of the plank and the cut is consistent across the plank, however the bottom of the dado is higher on one side of the groove and lower on the other.

I believe the answer is to create a jig that holds one side of the router higher which tilts the bit at the desired angle while making the cut across the plank.



"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"

Marc Sommerfeld Tools ,Videos
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-n...RWaEpMA/videos

Find all threads started by bobj3
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Last edited by bobj3; 01-25-2011 at 10:37 AM.
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