How to make a jig to route a grove - Router Forums
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-25-2011, 05:58 PM Thread Starter
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Smile How to make a jig to route a grove

I would like to make a jig to route a grove in a maple cutting board. I will need to repeat this on several boards.
The overall size is 16 x 20 end grain maple 1 1/4 inches thick.
I would like the grove to be approx. 3/4 inches from the edge a little more if needed.
I have a DWalt 625 plunge router.
Thanks
email me if you folks need more information.[email protected]
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-25-2011, 07:15 PM
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Hi

Just pop on your edge guide on your router and go for it..

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Quote:
Originally Posted by keenecowboy View Post
I would like to make a jig to route a grove in a maple cutting board. I will need to repeat this on several boards.
The overall size is 16 x 20 end grain maple 1 1/4 inches thick.
I would like the grove to be approx. 3/4 inches from the edge a little more if needed.
I have a DWalt 625 plunge router.
Thanks
email me if you folks need more information.[email protected]



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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-25-2011, 10:22 PM
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That's one method. Another is to build a frame that fits around your cutting board. It has to be wide enough so that when the cutting board is centered in the frame, your router bit will cut the groove at the right distance from the edge of the board. To keep the cutting board centered you will cut spacer blocks to fit between the cutting board and the frame. This is a good method for grooving many cutting boards.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-27-2011, 11:29 AM Thread Starter
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Default Frame jig for cutting groves

I built the frame and am attaching photos of my efforts.
Here are some problems I encountered.
1. made the initial frame from 2 x4's
2. it racked, with a bow will not lay flat.
3. using a Dewalt 625 as you can see.
4. i trying re-screwing the end pieces but still have the bow.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-27-2011, 01:25 PM
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Martin,

I suspect one of the 2x4's has a twist in it. When I make jigs I either use MDF or Baltic Birch plywood. If thicker material is needed for the jig, laminate one or more pieces of MDF or plywood.

I noticed pocket screws used to join the corners pf the frame. These screws are driven at an angle and the material is pulled up at an angle, the direction of force is not at 180 degrees. When using pocket screws to joint a frame. clamp the two piesces to a flat surface before installing the screws.

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-27-2011, 01:30 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, I am going to redo the frame as you suggested, and clamp for the pockets.
I need 1 1/4 height so i will laminate two pieces together. Thanks again for the tips.
Martin
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-27-2011, 05:53 PM Thread Starter
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I will need to laminate to build up the thickness what glue would you sugest for the mdf board
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-27-2011, 09:09 PM
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Tight bond II will do just fine.

Bill
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-27-2011, 09:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keenecowboy View Post
I built the frame and am attaching photos of my efforts.
Here are some problems I encountered.
1. made the initial frame from 2 x4's
2. it racked, with a bow will not lay flat.
3. using a Dewalt 625 as you can see.
4. i trying re-screwing the end pieces but still have the bow.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.
A far better and simpler way to make templates is as shown, using 1/2" MDF. Leave the surround wide enough for the router to be stable and/or make a router support, the one shown is made from a side fence, there is no need for it to be that fancy as shown in the last shot of a hastily made one when the fancy one was too tall for the particular job.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 02-28-2011, 06:57 AM
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Hi Martin:

The above suggestions are all valid and well worth pursuing. I'm going to add another.

I have skis in several lengths. One option to your problem involves a long set of smooth-rod skis. Lock your skis onto your table. To do the cut, slide your router across the skis. Set stop blocks on the rails for your starting and end points and put blocks under the rails to control deflection while starting your cut. Repeat for each groove. You can do bread board edges the same way. Another alternative is to use a shii and a male template.

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