Simple jig for installing T-track - Router Forums
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-22-2011, 01:54 AM Thread Starter
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Default Simple jig for installing T-track

Hello all,

Finishing touches on my table build include T-tracks for fences.

Easy and repeatable, this is the jig I built in just a matter of minutes.

I used four pieces of straight flat hardwood and a 1" guide bushing to set the width of the gap between the runners.















Mike

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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-27-2011, 08:00 AM
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Hello, Mike.

I saw a sketch of this jig in a router book I bought in Ohio, but to see the pictures and the final result is much the better. I will try it in my first RT.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-27-2011, 08:47 AM
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Wow! I'm a big fan of DYI jigs and fixtures. There is an old saying, "Don't strain, use your brain." That applies here! Great idea. Now that the weather is cooling and I'll not be doing all the yard work of summer, I plan on spending time on doing some things in the shop- router table, combo grinder/drill press set-up, bandsaw table, etc. I'll definitely be using this forum as a resource. Thanks for sharing. BTW, I admire your expertise on photos and labeling them. Me? I still marvel at turning on my computer.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-27-2011, 09:52 AM
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Mike, that is very nicely done! The double-stick tape is definitely a great way to get "traction" on the laminated surfaces. Your photos and text were superb! Thanks for sharing that with us! OPG3
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-27-2011, 01:13 PM
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I am building a new drill press table with 3 pieces of blue T-Track from Axminster Power Tools in the UK. I have pieced the top together from 10mm ply to frame the T-track. Photo when polished and installed. Too busy making drawers for the under table cabinet and making plane handles and totes.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-28-2011, 09:54 AM Thread Starter
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Hi Alexis,

About a week or so after I built this one, I saw one on-line that allowed you to adjust the width between the rails. The adjustable design really wasn't complicated, so if I had to do it over again, I'd probably make it adjustable.

I think they wanted around $40 for it. Making it adjustable would only add a few bucks to the cost for the bolts and knobs.

I'm not sure if I'd ever need it adjustable, but you never know.

John,

That jig is a great idea, and silly me, I thought it was my original design. Pretty foolish of me to think that something that simple had not been thought of before, lol. Oh well, the bottom line is that it is really easy to build and it works.

Otis,

I have fought with clamped things slipping on laminate too many times, so I ran the double stick the full length of both rails. Boy was that overkill. I thought I was going to pull up the laminate when I was removing the jig. :"^) I don't know if I'd cut back on the amount of tape I used though, you only get one chance to make a straight cut.

Mike,

I should have built my own drill press table. I bought the HF one and had to modify and reinforce it to make it work properly. One of the issues with the table is the t-track is held with very tiny screws. The first time I used a hold down clamp, the track came right up.

Those plane handles are more like a work of art. What is the wood you are using on the ones you haven't finished yet?

Mike

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-28-2011, 12:16 PM
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Mike, you will find great utility for this simple jig. The hardwood was the right choice for material and it should stand up for many years. This jig makes cutting dadoes a breeze. By altering the size of your guide bushing and bits different size cuts are quick and easy. You can make a cut and reposition your jig for larger dado cuts. Drilling three counter sunk holes on the top of each of the rails will allow you to attach wooden strips to the bottom and you have an instant mortising jig. A couple of stop blocks and you have an adjustable length keyhole jig or a shelf pin alignment jig. You will think of more uses for this very good and simple jig. Your stop blocks can be short squares of material in the groove with cross pieces extending over the width of the jig. To lock them in place with out using screws or bolts which would damage the jig you can add 1/4" Masonite tabs on each end of the cross piece with fine sandpaper facing the inside and then clamping them in place. This type of stop block limits travel of the router base as opposed to the guide bushing. To limit travel based on the bushing just cut longer strips to fit in the groove so they extend under your router. This is an excellent jig and a nice photo shoot. Keep up the good work.

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Last edited by Mike; 09-28-2011 at 12:20 PM.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-28-2011, 06:31 PM Thread Starter
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Hi Mike,

Thank you for the eye of experience. I had no idea just how versatile the jig could be.

It is kind of funny, if I had known the jig already existed, I wouldn't have taken the pictures or started this thread. Yet, my ignorance has contributed to further knowledge for me (and hopefully others), and once again shows the beauty of forums like this.

Mike

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Last edited by mpbc48; 09-28-2011 at 06:44 PM.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-30-2011, 07:21 PM
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You dont have to chisel the end of the cut... Just finished my top and I rounded the end of the aluminum track on my disc sander. It made a nice finish.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 09-30-2011, 09:27 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blazeman45 View Post
You dont have to chisel the end of the cut... Just finished my top and I rounded the end of the aluminum track on my disc sander. It made a nice finish.
I didn't even think of rounding off the track. Good idea.

Mike

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