PC Dovetail jig--Half blind dovetail question - Router Forums
 
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old 12-31-2011, 02:15 PM Thread Starter
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Default PC Dovetail jig--Half blind dovetail question

I just finished my first drawer using the layout labeling suggested by the manual. Each corner was marked and I matched the AAs, BBs, etc to the left in the jig as I cut. That means that I had a pin on top then a tail on top to keep the corners matched. The boards fit together fine but I have pins on one end of a board and tails on the other end of the board. Is this correct? Outside of that, everything else is fine

Cary, NC
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old 12-31-2011, 02:25 PM
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Sounds like you mixed your parts up. The top of the jig should be for fronts & backs & the front (vertical) holds the sides. If you size your parts 1" + 1/4" (2-1/4", 3-1/4", 4-1/4", 5-1/4" etc for PC jig.) your joint will be centered with half pins top & bottom. It helps to mark on a piece of tape & tape it to the cam locks what parts go where. You should also be machining odd corners on one side of the jig & even corners on the other side. You can number corners clockwise (2,4 & 1,3 are machined on opposite sides of the jig). Inside of your parts should be facing up. Your tops or bottoms (pick one) of your drawers should be against the stops.

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Whittier, CA.

Have a nice & safe day!

Last edited by jlord; 12-31-2011 at 03:02 PM.
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old 12-31-2011, 06:38 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks James. And I was so happy that I effectively utilized 95 inches out of 96"! The drawer is solid so I'll keep it but will make changes going forward. From a novice perspective, I thought that the matching of letters meant that you should orient the boards such that the numbers always matched on the left side of the jig. Hence pieces having pins on one end and tails on the other.
However, after seeing the finish product it did not look right.


Based on the image and your note it looks like A and C are cut on the left of the jig and B and D are cut on the right side of the jig. I'll give that a try tomorrow. Since one of the template backing nuts loosened up on me on my second drawer I now have scrap wood to work with

Cary, NC

Last edited by Chris_L; 12-31-2011 at 06:40 PM.
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old 12-31-2011, 06:45 PM
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Yes Chris A,C on one side & B,D on the other side. The parts on the left & right are your sides & should be located in the vertical clamp on the front. You can clamp the pieces with the bottom side against the stops. This will help eliminate any variations if there is any. Take a picture of your finished drawer.

James
Whittier, CA.

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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old 01-01-2012, 04:03 PM Thread Starter
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I have some pictures taken after I completed (roughing) two drawers. The drawer on the bottom was squared up. The one on the top was not. I just put two pieces together to check the joints.






I read that a gap was needed if glue was going to be used. Does that appear to be an appropriate gap?



I built each drawer from the same piece of stock and was surprised to see the width variance n one board. It wasn't apparent until I joined a corner. I guess some good sanding is in order. I'll also check the next time I buy wood. I may also try a better supply store than Home Depot.

Thanks for the push in the right direction. With everything set up properly and using both sides of the jig it was relatively quick to rough out two drawers. I was starting to see splintering across the route. I'm using poplar. Can the bit be getting dull? I have less than an hour on it and it was new when I started.

Cary, NC

Last edited by Chris_L; 01-01-2012 at 04:33 PM. Reason: Did not complete drawers, just finished routing the dovetails.
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