Guys - hoping you can help - I am looking to build this jig .. www woodsmithshop com download 204 adjustabledadojig.pdf . Sorry -too new can not post URLs , but you get the idea. Two questions: First the rail pieces need a slot - I don't have a table just hand held router (with plunge). How do I cut the slot ? small piece and needs to be straight. Second - you will see the discussion on Hardboard (Masonite) in one of the inserts. The author recommends 2 sides smooth Hardboard. Anyone know where I can find that?? live in the Austin Texas area and been / contacted most big box/small box/specialty lumber yards with no luck. Thanks in advance for the help.

I made that dado jig recently and cut the slots with plunge router with edge guide.

Cut the slots into a longer/wider piece of timber and trim to size

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fix...tml#post247473

Also I used 1/4" ply instead of hardboard

Thanks James - looks like I need and edge guide jig to start with - played around with the plunge router yesterday got a slot just not in the center where I needed it - so need some adjustment to the depth - thanks for the photos - nice!!!!

Hi Ralph - Welcome to the forum
I'm pretty sure this is the jig you are working on
http://www.woodsmithshop.com/downloa...bledadojig.pdf
Check page 3, step 2 carefully. You use the guide you have just created for the jig to cut the zero clearance edge. You don't need a seperate guide for the router.
I built that jig myself and it works very well. You do need to use it with the same router you used to make it and pay attention to the orientation of the base while using it to accomodate the event that the base could be slightly out of round or not perfectly centered.
I also have problems getting the hardboard that is smooth on both sides but 1/4" MDF works just as well. MDF does need to be sealed for durability though. I like boiled linseed oil but any sealer that soaks in and hardens will work fine.
Good Luck

Hi Ralph

Over the years I have made many,many dado jigs and they all work well but the key for me is make it cheap and keep it in the simple way (KISS way) so others can do the same, most know I love jigs and make many of them but it comes down to what do you do with it when you are done with it, the dado jig is a very simple thing to do and you will not use it all the time ,just now and then.
I think most of us are lazy deep down and we want a way to get the job done easy and quick but we want to get it right the 1st.time.

The jig below is a very easy one to make and it will work with any router and when you are done with it you can just hang it on the wall or under the work bench..
It just take 3 screws to mount it to your router a 3 min.job or less the norm I also have one that is just a drop and slot type one that has a hole for a brass guide to drop into ,no need to screw it to the base of the router, one jig for many jobs not just one.


Router Forums - View Single Post - Homemade tablesaw

http://www.routerforums.com/tools-wo...-tablesaw.html

Hope this helps, but I will say make all the jigs you can they help you get the job done easy-er and done right but don't go over board by making the Alum.ones or the high price stock ones they look great but most are only used a time or two .

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I built this same jig yesterday and I maybe I can help you with the hardboard questions. I went to Lowes, Home Depot and Menards for smooth (both sides) hardboard. Lowes has tempered, smooth on both sides but its 3/16" thick. Home depot has 1/4" smooth both sides but only in 2'x4' sheets and its $7 per sheet (not tempered, I think). Menards has 1/4" smooth one side not tempered (what I purchased). I ended up using TB II glue for the (2) 10" wide pcs and glued the rough sides together. I thinned out some glue and rollered it onto both surfaces with a paint roller and let it tack up a bit before applying regular un-thinned TB II. I clamped it up and let it dry for a day and it seems fine. When applying the the narrower strips I used contact cement. I applied CC to rough side of the narrow strip and the smooth side of the 10" wide board. I used masking tape to keep the CC off where I did not want it to be. The narrow strips are holding fine and you cannot move them no matter how hard you try. I just used a J-roller to press them down good and let it set overnight.

just a note - the 1/4' I bought is just over 7/32" and (2) pcs. clamped and glued measured just over 7/16", your threaded insert may need to be filed just a bit.

Yes, John.

That is the same as the one I made.

Can you post pictures of the hard board smooth on both sides? I would like to take it to Lowes and see if they can order it for me- The stores near me have never heard of it...

Hi Ralph

Go to a Lumber yard to get your stock..most big box stores will not have what you want..

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Hi Ralph - like Bj said, just go to a lumber yard, not a home center. Even if you could get a home center to order it for you, the minimum order is likely a pallet.