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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-04-2012, 01:44 PM Thread Starter
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Default Jasper Circle Jigs

Just received my set of Jasper Circle Jigs yesterday after a 2 day wait. I bought the 200 and 400 as a set directly from Jasper which is much cheaper than buying them separately on Ebay or Amazon. I didn't spend a lot of time searching but I didn't see the set listed on either site.

Now I know some of Y'all have the Jasper jigs, but after buying I read some reviews stating the attach holes are very fragile and break out when attached to the router. I haven't taken them out of the package yet thinking maybe somebody has a solution to the problem. Other than that the jigs are very highly regarded and work very well for what they are designed to do from all indications.

When something is advertised as being foolproof there is always a better class of fool that comes along to prove them wrong.
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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-04-2012, 01:57 PM
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HI Ken

You don't want to bolt the router to it..they did have a error with drilling the holes to deep in the plastic and they will snap the plastic out very easy the key is to use a brass guide with them it that way all you need is drop the guide in the jig and cut the cir. out and the neat thing about it the cord will never wind up on you I did put a knob on the big one to make it easy-er to use, I just drop it in the hole and put my hand on the knob and one on the router and just pull the jig with the knob..
And yes I use the brass guide on both of them..


I did post some pictures and you can see them in my uploads but let me know and I will did them out for you if you want me to.

The small one is a bit tricky to drill out but it can be done without wiping out the jig.

add on
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fix...r-cir-jig.html

===
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Bee View Post
Just received my set of Jasper Circle Jigs yesterday after a 2 day wait. I bought the 200 and 400 as a set directly from Jasper which is much cheaper than buying them separately on Ebay or Amazon. I didn't spend a lot of time searching but I didn't see the set listed on either site.

Now I know some of Y'all have the Jasper jigs, but after buying I read some reviews stating the attach holes are very fragile and break out when attached to the router. I haven't taken them out of the package yet thinking maybe somebody has a solution to the problem. Other than that the jigs are very highly regarded and work very well for what they are designed to do from all indications.


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Last edited by bobj3; 03-04-2012 at 09:23 PM.
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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-04-2012, 03:04 PM
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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-05-2012, 01:08 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bobj3 View Post
HI Ken

You don't want to bolt the router to it..they did have a error with drilling the holes to deep in the plastic and they will snap the plastic out very easy the key is to use a brass guide with them it that way all you need is drop the guide in the jig and cut the cir. out and the neat thing about it the cord will never wind up on you I did put a knob on the big one to make it easy-er to use, I just drop it in the hole and put my hand on the knob and one on the router and just pull the jig with the knob..
And yes I use the brass guide on both of them..


I did post some pictures and you can see them in my uploads but let me know and I will did them out for you if you want me to.

The small one is a bit tricky to drill out but it can be done without wiping out the jig.

add on
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fix...r-cir-jig.html

===
Hi Bob...Thanks for the response and the solution, but there is one problem with doing it the way you did. I don't have the tools to do it your way.

I have a thought to fix the breakout problem that may seem a bit off the wall, but it seems like a viable solution. Why couldn't I fill the mounting holes with J-B Weld and re-drill them to accept a shallow head countersunk screw? Like I said it is just a thought.

As it is I use J-B Weld rather than glue on my jigs and fixtures as well as other things where glue may not hold for the long haul.

When something is advertised as being foolproof there is always a better class of fool that comes along to prove them wrong.
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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-05-2012, 01:36 PM
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Hi Ken

JB weld is great stuff but I don't thing it will say Always a work around, I made a copy of it by using some 1/2" thick MDF and drilled the holes out right.

The screws that come with the Jasper are pan head type you can buy little steel inserts (ACE hardware) that are made to use flat counter sink screws in the type of hole to beef up the plate..

===

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Hi Bob...Thanks for the response and the solution, but there is one problem with doing it the way you did. I don't have the tools to do it your way.

I have a thought to fix the breakout problem that may seem a bit off the wall, but it seems like a viable solution. Why couldn't I fill the mounting holes with J-B Weld and re-drill them to accept a shallow head countersunk screw? Like I said it is just a thought.

As it is I use J-B Weld rather than glue on my jigs and fixtures as well as other things where glue may not hold for the long haul.


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"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"

Marc Sommerfeld Tools ,Videos
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-n...RWaEpMA/videos

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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-05-2012, 02:51 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by bobj3 View Post
Hi Ken

JB weld is great stuff but I don't thing it will say Always a work around, I made a copy of it by using some 1/2" thick MDF and drilled the holes out right.

The screws that come with the Jasper are pan head type you can buy little steel inserts (ACE hardware) that are made to use flat counter sink screws in the type of hole to beef up the plate..

===
Hi Bob,

That was another solution that entered my mind, using some of this Lexan I have lying around my shop and re-drilling another using 3/8 inch Lexan. The reason I would use 3/8 is because I can get about as many 3/8 or less cut-offs as I want free, 1/2 I have to buy and it ain't cheap. The 400 or round jig would be the one I use more often since I am going head first into clock building once I get my clock wood surfaced and cut to workable dimensions.

I am leaning toward trying the J-B weld solution first and if that fails go to re-drilling the jig using the 3/8 Lexan.

When something is advertised as being foolproof there is always a better class of fool that comes along to prove them wrong.

Last edited by Ken Bee; 03-06-2012 at 02:02 PM.
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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-05-2012, 05:52 PM
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Hi Ken - I have the 400. I didn't want to lose the very small circle capability so I haven't drilled mine out as Bj suggested but I am VERY careful tightening the mounting screws. After all, it isn't going anywhere, just needs to be held in place. On most of my shop made one-of jigs, I use the bushing-in-the-hole method.

John Schaben

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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-05-2012, 08:26 PM
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Hi John

I also wanted to keep the small hole capability,You will not lose small circle capability ,see below

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fix...r-cir-jig.html

I will say I don't why Milescraft did't put in a 1/2" in the plate to start with after all a 1/2" hole is good as a 1/4" one to line up the plate on the router but what every with the 1/2" you can use the brass guide with 1/4" bit or a 3/8" bit for a quicker way to cut out the holes..
But it will still work with the 1/4" shaft router that many use by just using the clear plastic line up plate/ring and 1/4" dowel pin that comes with the jig for that job.

The way I did it, I made the white press in part then put the clear plastic part in place with the two small dowel pins to hold it on dead center and drilled the 1/4" hole out 1st. then drill the 1/2 hole next,just that quick I could use the brass guide with out any damage to the Jasper jig and it will work on any router that can take on the brass guides .

Note+++be sure and clamp the plate to the drill press table top b/4 you drill the 1/4" out the 1/2" drill bit likes to move off to one side or off center when drilling out a 1/4" hole as you know but I'm sure you know that . just a small tip the 1/2" will come out right at the edge of the small line up hole but will not take it out..

==

Quote:
Originally Posted by jschaben View Post
Hi Ken - I have the 400. I didn't want to lose the very small circle capability so I haven't drilled mine out as Bj suggested but I am VERY careful tightening the mounting screws. After all, it isn't going anywhere, just needs to be held in place. On most of my shop made one-of jigs, I use the bushing-in-the-hole method.


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Marc Sommerfeld Tools ,Videos
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-n...RWaEpMA/videos

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Last edited by bobj3; 03-05-2012 at 09:31 PM.
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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-07-2012, 11:46 AM Thread Starter
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Hi Bob

I tried the JB Weld and it actually worked. I taped off the bottom and top of the mounting holes then used an exacto knife to cut the top hole out before adding the JB Weld. Once it set up I sanded it down with my Dremel Tool, removed the tape, drilled out the hole from the back of the jig with the exact drill size, turned it over, drilled the countersink just a tad below the jig surface and it is perfect.

But, and there is always a but with me. I used the wrong set of holes to re-drill. I used the holes for my Hitachi router which isn't a plunge router. I really didn't want to but I guess I will use the plunge base for my extra PC 892 router then use that as a permanent set-up with the circle jig. Considering the PC plunge base is brand new and never been on the router I wanted to sell it but never did get any bites on Ebay or this forum. I do very little hand held plunge routing and figured my Ridgid plunge router would always be sufficient for my uses.

I can only hope my next try at filling and re-drilling the PC holes go as well as the first try.

When something is advertised as being foolproof there is always a better class of fool that comes along to prove them wrong.
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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 03-07-2012, 12:27 PM
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Hey Ken

I knew you would try it
That's great how about a snapshot I would love to see how it turned out and it would be a great tip for others that want to beef it up..fix the error b/4 they have a error with the jig..


===
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Bee View Post
Hi Bob

I tried the JB Weld and it actually worked. I taped off the bottom and top of the mounting holes then used an exacto knife to cut the top hole out before adding the JB Weld. Once it set up I sanded it down with my Dremel Tool, removed the tape, drilled out the hole from the back of the jig with the exact drill size, turned it over, drilled the countersink just a tad below the jig surface and it is perfect.

But, and there is always a but with me. I used the wrong set of holes to re-drill. I used the holes for my Hitachi router which isn't a plunge router. I really didn't want to but I guess I will use the plunge base for my extra PC 892 router then use that as a permanent set-up with the circle jig. Considering the PC plunge base is brand new and never been on the router I wanted to sell it but never did get any bites on Ebay or this forum. I do very little hand held plunge routing and figured my Ridgid plunge router would always be sufficient for my uses.

I can only hope my next try at filling and re-drilling the PC holes go as well as the first try.



"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions"

Marc Sommerfeld Tools ,Videos
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT-n...RWaEpMA/videos

Find all threads started by bobj3
http://www.routerforums.com/search.php?searchid=944097



Last edited by bobj3; 03-07-2012 at 01:34 PM.
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