Making a Router Sled - Router Forums
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-21-2012, 03:39 AM Thread Starter
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Default Making a Router Sled

Hi all, I imagine this topic has been discussed quite a bit as I've looked through various posts on this subject. Just trying to get my brain around what I want to do.

I want to dress timber mainly used for small box making. I can rip the timber firstly on my triton workcentre but as most realise the result is fair but not brilliant. It has helped since I mounted a stabilising bracket to my triton. The timber is then around 12 or 13mm thickness, and maybe 60 or 70 or 80mm wide.

I would like a thicknesser but I dont want to buy one. I don't really want to outlay the money for one, plus it would just take up more room in my very limited shed, and lastly I know the noise they make and I dont want my neighbours complaining. I guess I could also add that I would never need to dress timber up to 13 inches wide and around 6 inches thick.

Yesterday I made up a router sled which basically slides over the top of a piece of timber on my bench. I am using a 1hp Ryobi router but it only takes either a 8mm bit or a 1/4" bit. My two issues are that I cant find a planing bit that fits this size collet. And secondly I need to be able to secure/clamp the piece of timber to my bench, (as the sled slides over the top of it).

The idea worked pretty good actually just using a 19mm straight bit, which is the largest bit I have for this 1/4" router. I just need to get around these couple of issues,..

Any comments or suggestions,

Regards, Paul
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-21-2012, 08:05 AM
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Paul, there are many posts here on router ski jigs. Go to the member video tab near the top left of your screen and you will see the easy way to contain your material on your bench. There is also a link to the discussion thread if you have any further questions.

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-21-2012, 09:54 AM
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Double sided tape will hold your work down if the bottom side is fairly smooth, but be sure to position the tape so your work is raised evenly by the thickness of the tape. You can then raise the router to equal this increased work height. To keep it from moving sideways, some scrap that is thinner than your work can be placed around your work and screwed down, but you may not need this if the tape holds well enough.

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-21-2012, 02:21 PM
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Paul, I am not aware of a router bit specifically designed for thickness planing. My understading is that you would use the widest straight bit you could get your hands on.

I'm not 100% sure, but I THINK I have seen 1" straight bits for 1/4" shanks.

I think Harry (harrysin) sometimes secures the piece to a "sacrificial worktop" with screws. Or if you have some extra wood on the edges of what you are planing, you can cut it at 30 or 45 degrees and hold it down with another piece with a complementaty angle (if you know what i mean).

Last edited by Chris Curl; 05-21-2012 at 02:32 PM.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-21-2012, 03:12 PM
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" router bit specifically designed for thickness planing"

Planing Sled : Router : Woodhaven

==

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Originally Posted by Chris Curl View Post
Paul, I am not aware of a router bit specifically designed for thickness planing. My understading is that you would use the widest straight bit you could get your hands on.

I'm not 100% sure, but I THINK I have seen 1" straight bits for 1/4" shanks.

I think Harry (harrysin) sometimes secures the piece to a "sacrificial worktop" with screws. Or if you have some extra wood on the edges of what you are planing, you can cut it at 30 or 45 degrees and hold it down with another piece with a complementaty angle (if you know what i mean).



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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-21-2012, 03:36 PM
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bob, anything for 1/4" or 8mm shanks?
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-21-2012, 04:04 PM
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I do a lot of rather intricate work with my router, and jigs. But for thicknessing wood, I love my Delta planer, that I was given by a friend, just for the cost of shipping. But if you don't care to buy one, then I'd make a thickness sander. Just do a search, using 'homemade thickness sander', and you'll come up with a bunch of hits/plans. That's the way I would do it anyway.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-21-2012, 04:29 PM
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3/4" is about the max on 1/4" shank

MLCS Straight Router Bits

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bob, anything for 1/4" or 8mm shanks?



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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-21-2012, 10:33 PM
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Paul, the sled will work fine, you can screw blocks at either end of your board as most of the forces you will put on your work will be lengthways. You have 2 other issues, and that is that your router is only 1hp and the shank sizes. I checked Lee Valley tools and in 1/4" shank the largest diameter bits are 1". I don't know how large you can go in 8mm, they are not common here- yet. At 1" I would be careful how much bite and what feed rate to prevent snapping the shank. Too big and too fast a feed rate will strain your router also.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 05-21-2012, 11:02 PM
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Have you considered a mortising bit? They come in 1/4 inch shanks and if you control the feed rate and depth you should be okay. You will have to make a sled for it and may need to add something to accommodate wider boards. I use a thickness planer but have read posts around the web where people have used this method. Best of Luck.
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