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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-12-2012, 12:35 PM Thread Starter
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Default UHMW adhesive

Has anyone had experience using contact cement to attach UHMW to a jig?
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-12-2012, 02:27 PM
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It's an old article, but it says it's possible.

Gluing UHMW (ultra high molecular weight) plastic | Articles | Woodworker's Journal eZine

Ive never found anything to stick for very long.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-13-2012, 08:57 AM
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I am in the concrete formwork business (among several other things) and my forms are made from Structural Foam - 45% Recycled Content - HDPE (High Density PolyEthylene). We do up to $20m business per year and have sent-out feelers in all directions in search of an adhesive. If we could find an adhesive for HDPE that could hold-up to the jobsite abuse in the concrete formwork arena, it could be worth a fortune to me. There are adhesives that will stick them together - but not good enough for my business that we have located as of today. My [consultant] polymer chemist has been working on this for years, but nothing yet has held-up to our testing. With concrete forms, plastic forms must be stronger than the Hydrostatic Loads would dictate - due to the heat of hydration of the concrete - up to 180F - which fatigues the matrix. My forms do incorporate heat dissipation fins. Check with US Plastics on the web, they will have it if anyone does - but don't expect it to be as strong as the plastic itself.

On another related subject, plastic can be fusion welded; I've utilized fusion welding in tests and got good results, but it is more expensive than the bolted connections we are currently using. The very best fusion welding does not use "Prescriptive Rods", but rather uses melted shavings from the exact plastic being used - this was the only way we found to get a super-strong bond capacity.

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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-13-2012, 10:01 AM
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How thick does it need to be? If it's on the bottom of a jig to help it slide better, they UHMW in very thin strips (.020"?). Otherwise you'll have to counterbore or countersink it for screws. If you don't want the screws to show or you need the face to be without holes, just make keyholes on the back of the UHMW if it's thick enough.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-10-2012, 02:08 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you for your help to everyone that replied with suggestions, in particular thank you Paulo (ID: Noob).

I have since I initially posted this query done some experimenting. I found a readily available adhesive that works very well, Loctite PowerGrab. I have also found that even 1/8" thick UHMW plastic sheets are thick enough to countersink a #6 flat head wood screw.

Michael
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-10-2012, 03:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmalinco View Post
Thank you for your help to everyone that replied with suggestions, in particular thank you Paulo (ID: Noob).

I have since I initially posted this query done some experimenting. I found a readily available adhesive that works very well, Loctite PowerGrab. I have also found that even 1/8" thick UHMW plastic sheets are thick enough to countersink a #6 flat head wood screw.

Michael
good info, thanks for the update
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