Through DoveTail Jig for the Router Table
For the hand/Plunge Router
See Link below for more details ▼ http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fix...ail-jig-2.html
New link to the Katie jig on the Sommerfeldtools web site. http://www.mailwareweb.com/sommerfeld/item.asp?n=KJ&f=1 http://www.katiejig.com/
I did rework the Katie Jig because it didn't come with the board clamp that they now show as a add on item.
And the stop blocks on the top, it will now will let you set it up true and sq. for both sides at the same time.
Just a side note*** Look at the router bits in the box you will see a O-Ring under the lock ring, this keeps the lock ring from dropping down if the set screw comes out when you are using the bit,this is just a safe guard, the little set screws have a way of coming out at the wrong time.
( set screws,,,just two treads hold them in place and they strip easy)
And the router bit will nail your jig if it drops.
I used 4ea. 3/4" thick x 4" wide x 19" long Poplar milled down to the 2 7/8" wide that's called for the in setup guide, for the Main part and Hard Maple 4/4 for the other parts. (clamps and knobs)
If you need any more info PLEASE just ask .
For the T-Bolts I used 5/16-18 sq. nuts and some full thread rod and some super glue (thick type) total cost for the 3 1/4" long T-bolts .20 cents ea.
To do 1/4" or 3/8" stock just flip the slide block over on the top so the stock can be clamped in place without the slide block hanging down over the main block.
You will still have the slide block to keep it true on both side.
Just put a " X " on the inside of stock when you make the pins and pockets and they will all come out right on the button with almost no sanding .
You can also use the straight slots on one side of the jig to make Box Joints on the router table. (small and big ones,(slots) up to 18" long in one setup