Need flip stop suggestions - Router Forums
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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-19-2012, 06:45 PM Thread Starter
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Default Need flip stop suggestions

As I mentioned in my Acme Dowel Cannon post, I found stuff during my bi-decade bench cleaning. Among them was a nice spring-loaded cabinet hinge.

I thought it might be perfect for making a flip up stop for my miter saw fence. The original which is just an L shape (Photo 1) works very well but I often wish I could just flip it out of the way.

The hinge seemed like a good idea and it seemed to be pretty tight. So I made a new stop using the hinge (Photos 2, 3, and 4).

The good news:
1. It is easy to position.
2. It looks nice.
3. It flips up and down well.
4. Did I mention it looks nice?

The bad new:
1. It sucks.
2. It sucks.
3. It sucks.
4. Beauty isn't everything.

The problem is the hinge has more lateral play than I thought so there is about 1/16" to 3/32" of play in the stop. Okay, I know Kreg and others make nice, strong flip stops but Rockler already owns my soul and Grizzly, Woodcraft and the others are fighting for whatever is left. I don't really want to spend money on a 'convenience'. When it comes right down to it, my original works fine.

So, help me out here. I know you guys have suggestions.
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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-19-2012, 08:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gaffboat View Post
As I mentioned in my Acme Dowel Cannon post, I found stuff during my bi-decade bench cleaning. Among them was a nice spring-loaded cabinet hinge.

I thought it might be perfect for making a flip up stop for my miter saw fence. The original which is just an L shape (Photo 1) works very well but I often wish I could just flip it out of the way.

The hinge seemed like a good idea and it seemed to be pretty tight. So I made a new stop using the hinge (Photos 2, 3, and 4).

The good news:
1. It is easy to position.
2. It looks nice.
3. It flips up and down well.
4. Did I mention it looks nice?

The bad new:
1. It sucks.
2. It sucks.
3. It sucks.
4. Beauty isn't everything.

The problem is the hinge has more lateral play than I thought so there is about 1/16" to 3/32" of play in the stop. Okay, I know Kreg and others make nice, strong flip stops but Rockler already owns my soul and Grizzly, Woodcraft and the others are fighting for whatever is left. I don't really want to spend money on a 'convenience'. When it comes right down to it, my original works fine.

So, help me out here. I know you guys have suggestions.
************************************************** **
To use that hinge it looks to me as if the pin will need to be removed and the barrel halves shimmed with a washer the correct thickness so there is zero lateral movement.
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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-19-2012, 09:23 PM
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Oliver,

I understand your question, but am left wondering...can you not just slide the flip-stop beyond the limits of your (at hand) workpiece?

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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-19-2012, 10:39 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OPG3 View Post
Oliver,

I understand your question, but am left wondering...can you not just slide the flip-stop beyond the limits of your (at hand) workpiece?
Yes I can, but that sometimes entails actually sliding it off the end of the T-track. Then it takes a bit longer to get it back in place. It would be convenient if I don't lose the original placement so that all cuts are exactly the same.

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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-20-2012, 02:07 AM
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Exchange the recessed hinge for a brass hinge, no play or slap in the knuckle if you get a reasonable quality one
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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-20-2012, 09:23 AM
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Default Too much play

If the play is in the hinge, replace the hinge with a nice heavy duty 3.5 or 4" door hinge.
If it's loose at the lockdown, the longer hinge will provide more surface area and room for another lockdown nut.
Enjoy,
Kevin
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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-20-2012, 02:48 PM
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If your willing to abandon using that hinge and go a different route, take a look at the attached PDF. Since you already have a t-track isntalled, it would work perfect for you, just modify the dimensions accordingly.
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File Type: pdf Miter Saw Stop Block.pdf (651.3 KB, 366 views)
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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-20-2012, 03:31 PM
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Stop on drill press fence, albeit not to your distance requirements, will not slip.
There is no backlash in it.
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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-20-2012, 04:16 PM
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Hi

Just one more way,,,a simple tee slot in some MDF with some slide blocks for stopping points on both sides of the chop saw blade, I also use the same thing on my RAS..

No slop dead on every time

===



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Last edited by bobj3; 06-20-2012 at 04:30 PM.
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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 06-20-2012, 04:45 PM
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Holy Hanna! It's either that or a new BMW...:0
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