Plywood ski jig - Page 3 - Router Forums
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post #21 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-03-2013, 07:44 PM
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Bob:
$3.00 a bottle , plus high fructose syrup??
I think I will stick with my Ensure bottle caps which my wife drinks daily. else I will search for caps in the recycling bins.
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post #22 of 28 (permalink) Old 08-26-2013, 05:14 AM
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Hi everyone,
Great ideas, which I will put into practice
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post #23 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-31-2013, 07:12 AM
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Default Router Ski using angle guides

I wasn’t able to find the proper rods for my router so I had to devise an alternate using 1” (1/8” thick) aluminum angle. With this design, the router is able to slide in the X-axis. The removable pieces holding the angles are second generation. The first attempt used an aluminum keeper on the bottom and the cuts did not fit the angles close enough which allowed more racking when assembled than I liked. The components are made out of 5/4 oak with I had left over from another project. I am eventually going to fabricate a square router base plate (lexan/plexi) so I can interchange routers and facilitate the use of X-axis stops attached to the runners.

Features:
• It has about 12” of useable height and a min height of about 1”.
• It can be used without the risers – the angles used were 36” long and will ride on whatever guide surface desired. (I used the prototype without the risers to surface my bench)
• The fine adjustment was nice afterthought and a natural for the layout
• It stores well

Fabrication notes:
• The cutouts for the angle – 1+ passes (depends on the blade) on the table saw for the vertical kerf and the horizontal recesses were manually done with a trim router. Make both to fit the aluminum angle close – it needs to slide but not wiggle.
• I used threaded inserts for the 4 bolts on the 2 steel keepers and the fine adjustment rod.
• I did put a Ύ” guide on the holders to run in the vertical track on the risers – this may be overkill.

Lessons Learned:
• On the moveable holder, double check the spacing needed between the angles for your router plate or leave it wide. Measure and test. You only get one shot at the spacing of the vertical cuts and if too closely spaced, the router won’t slide well.
• Leave the aluminum angle slightly proud of the bottom surface of the holder so the keeper will put the necessary pressure on it.
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post #24 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-31-2013, 08:15 AM
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Default My thoughts also

Mark, thanks for posting this, that is the same aluminium angle I purchased this past weekend to see if I could build a sled for my router with it. I like a lot of the features you have incorporated especially the fine adjustment.

If you have used it much have you found any flexing of the aluminum angle stock? That was really my only real concern.

My intial thoughts were to make this with 2 small clamps of some type to lock my router in one position, one one each side of the guides. Then just use the sled handles to move the whole sled but leave it possible to slide the router in the guides to give me more that option.

I just havent worked out how to keep the lower clamp parts low profile so that if I don't have much clearence I can still get low the on project without interference. Will repost when I do, others thoughts are welcome.
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post #25 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-31-2013, 10:27 AM
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I have used the angle guides over a 30" span - there is no flexing. But if you don't get the angle holders precise enough you will get slight racking of the risers which is essentially the same problem. The first version I did attempt to use nylon locking set screws against the angle (so as not to mark the aluminum) but these did not do the trick.

RE: clearance ... I did consider cutting off the bottom of the risers if needed so the angle would go right to the surface. I think I could get away with it since I used 5/4 (the risers would be sturdy enough) but I'm not sure how rigid a 3/4 riser would be with no bottom support for the larger openings for the angle.
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post #26 of 28 (permalink) Old 02-07-2014, 12:36 PM
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Great pictures Thanks!
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post #27 of 28 (permalink) Old 04-29-2014, 03:34 PM
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Plywood made frames and cabinets are becoming popular in nowadays as they have many advantages.

1) Light in weight

2) Great resistance to wear and tear

3) Can be mould into any shape easily

4) You can fix them with apply any indutrial adhensive without using nails.
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post #28 of 28 (permalink) Old 07-30-2014, 01:26 PM
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Mike great option. Does it matter that the jig is cutting across the grain and not with the grain? Other than size limits, why all the jigs design to mill/plane lumber down always cut across the grain? I ask because I am considering building one that cuts with the grain but his of course adds expense and accounts for other issues such as bounce that a 5-6 foot long jig would have, where as a 24-30 inch jig would not have to consider this .
thanks tw
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