My way of making some of my routing jigs - Router Forums
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-26-2012, 07:14 PM Thread Starter
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Default My way of making some of my routing jigs

I just spent the last half hour looking for a thread to fit these pictures on, and didn't find any that really fit something like these. Now if I can find the pictures. Found them, and not anywhere close to where I thought they would be.

OK, first one. This is the master for the center part of the wooden figure banks I make. You can make out the nails in the nail pilot holes, to hold it down to the piece to be routed. Sometimes vibrationwill shake the nails loose, if they aren't too many, and not driven in enough, so better more than enough, than not enough. They'll be on the inside anyway, so won't show. I usually hve to make three to four of these if I have to make a new one from scratch - the measurements are that close.

Second: This is the bottom of the jig to hold my base for routing. Measurements on this are close also. I use my mitre saw and cut a piece 5" X 5", then set it in.

Third: This is the top side of the same jig. The bar going across it is a finger hold - I hold onto that with all eight fingers, then the two thumbs press on the edge of the 5" X 5" piece, and hold it in place, then rout. Refer to second photo - the two long slots on each side are to rout two slots in the base for the 'feet' of the piece routed by the jig in photo one. The small notch in the bottom of the jig are to mke a very slight dip in the base, to indicate the back of the base. The finished base may look identicl front to back, and it is, as much as I can make it, but there will always be a tiny difference, and that tiny difference is critical if the correct side does not go to the front - hence the tiny notch, eliminates guesswork.

Fourth. This is the bottom side of the rear top piece of my banks.

Five: And this is the top side. You can see the bar the fingers hold onto, and the side pressed in with the thumbs. The part routed out is the coin drop at the bottom of the coin chimney, or whatever it is, never thought to name it, and the 'bar' that locks in the piece at the rear that comes out to take out the money. On this jig, and the one for the base, it is pretty much impossible to use either without having your hands on the bar and your thumbs applying pressure - this pretty well guarantees your fingers will not get anywhere near the router bit while using them. You may not be able to tell, but in one or two places, there are pieces that cover where the bit would be in the top of the jig and open, so no accidential touching.

Six: The top of my knight jig for my chess pieces.

Seven: Side view. A bit clearer perhaps. All of my router templates/patterns are two pieces of 1/2" plywood glued together, then nail pilot holes drilled throu, so the piece can be tacked down.

Eight: The bottom edge. To use I set a large enough piece of wood (usually plywood) on the shelf made by the bottom (third) layer of plywood. Then it's tacked down by nailes from the top. Then the extended handle is gripped and the wood routed around. You can see where the jig is tapered, to match the bottom sides of the piece. Routs very rapidly, and neatly. Somehow I lost the rook, so have to make another master. Simple enough, after you cut out a good master rook that it. I like both sides identical, which means I get one side I like, tack that down and rout that side, then flip the piece, and use that to rout the other side also - ergo, two identical sides. Once I've got that done, I use strips of wood about 2" wide to make the whole thing. Glue a shorter strip, on a longer strip, making sure there is enough space in front of the shorter strip to be able to glue the rook. Then put the rook in place against the shorter piece, glue. When the glue dries, then trim the sides so they match the bottom edge of the rook. Rout ithe longer piece. All that's left then is another shorter piece, on either top or bottom really, but must match the bottom edge of the rook. This is what you will but the wood against, and tack down, when you rout out a chess piece. The pawn is about 2" or so tall, and the others larger accordingly. For now I just glue the routed piece on a base. Later I plan on making the pieces 2 or 3 layers thick, and for those I would be making a jig to hold them, because I do not really care to rout pieces that small by hand. Oh yeah, this setup with the 1/2" plywood can be used for 3/4" thick plywood as well. But if I was going to make a whole l ot of sets, I'd make new master jigs (or whatever you want to call them) out of 3/4" stock. Of course, if y ou had a bit long enough you could just make them to rout 1" stock, and do it in one step. Scrollsaw chess pieces? Not lately.
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"It ain't what you're told, it's what you know." - Granny Weatherwax
Gather the villagers, pitchforks, torches; we march at dusk!
Some days, the supply of available curse words is insufficient to meet my demands.
.....Call me a craftsman, artisan, or artistic, and I will accept that. Call me an artist and you will likely get a quite rude comment in return. I am not a @#$%ing artist.

Last edited by JOAT; 09-27-2012 at 10:45 AM. Reason: Spelling, always the spelling.
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-27-2012, 12:50 AM
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It could be my olden eyes, but the pics are hard to make out.

I'm seeing way too orangy, blurry pics.

Is there some setting on your camera to get rid of the orange/yellow/blur?

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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-27-2012, 01:11 AM Thread Starter
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Is there some setting on your camera to get rid of the orange/yellow/blur?
Not likely. I had to set it on close range to get them that clear, and that won't take flash. And, if I'd set it on long range, the flash would have washed them all out. That and the camera takes a great picture some times, and a lousy one the rest. I'll give a try at taking better ones later, but I doubt it will happen.

"It ain't what you're told, it's what you know." - Granny Weatherwax
Gather the villagers, pitchforks, torches; we march at dusk!
Some days, the supply of available curse words is insufficient to meet my demands.
.....Call me a craftsman, artisan, or artistic, and I will accept that. Call me an artist and you will likely get a quite rude comment in return. I am not a @#$%ing artist.
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-27-2012, 02:02 AM
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Not likely. I had to set it on close range to get them that clear, and that won't take flash. And, if I'd set it on long range, the flash would have washed them all out. That and the camera takes a great picture some times, and a lousy one the rest. I'll give a try at taking better ones later, but I doubt it will happen.
Hi Theo.

Which camera are you using to take the photos?

James
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-27-2012, 03:00 AM
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I would also like to know about the camera brand and type. Perhaps we can help you with the settings.
Those objects doesn't look small enough to use macro mode. I would go a few steps away from the objects (backward) and use zoom and flash.
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-27-2012, 04:46 AM
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I would also like to know about the camera brand and type. Perhaps we can help you with the settings.
Those objects doesn't look small enough to use macro mode. I would go a few steps away from the objects (backward) and use zoom and flash.
I agree. Even to change the white balance to indoors would make a difference.

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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-27-2012, 06:15 AM
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Jes, James is totaly right. I forgot about white balance.
It just occurred to me that perhaps the shutter button was not pushed firstly only half way to allow the camera to get the object in focus.
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-27-2012, 09:01 AM
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White balance will help some, but I agree that macro should not be needed on this size object!

Here is one with a little color correction.
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-27-2012, 11:13 AM Thread Starter
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Hi guys: My present camera is a digital Vivitar Vivicam X018. It replaced a Kodak digital camera, the screen of which cracked due to carrying mortar rounds in the same pocket. Golf balls, for a golf ball mortar.

The Kodak was great, but too pricey at replacement time, so opted for the Vivitar. The manual for the Kodak was something like four pages. The manual for the Vivitar is fifty-eight. It does tell how to set the camera up riight from the beginning. Problem is, it did not include a manual, just a small i nstruction sheet, which didn't say a word about setting it up. So once I turned it on, it seems to have a batch of glitches grafted in, permanently; wrong date, have to reset settings every time I turn it on, etc., confusion runs rampant.

However, you guys have given me a batch of new stuff to ponder on. I will be in the shop later, and hope to remember to try your thoughts. Sure can't be worse than what I'm getting now. Oh yeah, been having computer issues, and with things the way it is just now, I can get things to the printer, but can't get the printer to work - and it's definitely not the printer, because it will print a test page no problem. Ah well. I'll try to get some decent pictures for you all. Thanks.

"It ain't what you're told, it's what you know." - Granny Weatherwax
Gather the villagers, pitchforks, torches; we march at dusk!
Some days, the supply of available curse words is insufficient to meet my demands.
.....Call me a craftsman, artisan, or artistic, and I will accept that. Call me an artist and you will likely get a quite rude comment in return. I am not a @#$%ing artist.

Last edited by JOAT; 09-27-2012 at 11:15 AM. Reason: Spelling, of course.
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 09-27-2012, 02:48 PM
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I'm sorry to say but it seems that you won't take any good shoots of your projects with this camera. Never heard for the brand Vivitar before so I did some Googling and found rather angry buyers on Amazon:

Amazon.com: Customer Reviews: Vivitar ViviCam iTwist X018 Digital Camera
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