Threading ski rods without a lathe or machine vise - Router Forums
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post #1 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-28-2012, 09:51 AM Thread Starter
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Default Threading ski rods without a lathe or machine vise

Many members have been put-off making router skis or have resorted to the inferia allthread because they dont have access to a metal lathe. Well guys, here is a simple way to produce a pair of SMOOTH ski rods with a thread at each end. I'll add a pdf of the project.
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File Type: pdf Threading smooth rods for router skis without.pdf (517.8 KB, 210 views)

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post #2 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-28-2012, 11:24 PM
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What type of rod are you using Harry?

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #3 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-28-2012, 11:36 PM
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Such a simple solution, I am ashamed I did not think of that......VBG.

Back to McJings for a new tap/die set....

Thanks harry.

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post #4 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-29-2012, 08:40 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Cherryville Chuck View Post
What type of rod are you using Harry?
My router on skis is a Makita 3600BR which has 12mm holes. The ends of the rods are turned down to 3/8" to leave a shoulder for the fender washer. With this "new" method of threading without a lathe, it would be necessary to run a 12mm die along the ends. Some routers have 1/2" holes so of course a 1/2" die would be needed. The material is bright mild steel, readily available.
The small skis have 8mm rods and as you can see were made in the lathe but could now be made the "new" way
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post #5 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-29-2012, 08:58 AM Thread Starter
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Such a simple solution, I am ashamed I did not think of that......VBG.

Back to McJings for a new tap/die set....

Thanks harry.
Make sure that any dies you buy James are like the split one on the left. I doubt that McJing has them, I'm sure all his stock is from China.
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post #6 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-29-2012, 09:16 AM
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The split dies can also be found pretty cheap on Ebay.

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post #7 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-29-2012, 10:50 AM
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Great pictures, great info on pictures, great jig. Please keep the jigs & pictures & info coming.
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post #8 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-29-2012, 07:45 PM
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Make sure that any dies you buy James are like the split one on the left. I doubt that McJing has them, I'm sure all his stock is from China.
Harry.

The button dies on their web site do not show the split.

What are the pros and cons either way?

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post #9 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-29-2012, 08:17 PM
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Harry, I have seen a few mention that they used drill rod for their support rods. I have used my lathe to turn a 1/2" drill bit shank down to 3/8" so I could chuck it in a 3/8 drill but I haven't tried threading one with a die. Have you?

James,
A split die is theoretically adjustable. There is a recessed hole at 90 deg to the split so that if you tighten down the grub screw that keeps the die from turning in the holder you would also reduce the % of threadform. A common bolt has a threadform of about 70-75%. At least that's the way that I understand it. Maybe Harry could verify that. I'm sure he has more experience on the subject than I do.

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post #10 of 53 (permalink) Old 09-30-2012, 10:43 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cherryville Chuck View Post
Harry, I have seen a few mention that they used drill rod for their support rods. I have used my lathe to turn a 1/2" drill bit shank down to 3/8" so I could chuck it in a 3/8 drill but I haven't tried threading one with a die. Have you?

James,
A split die is theoretically adjustable. There is a recessed hole at 90 deg to the split so that if you tighten down the grub screw that keeps the die from turning in the holder you would also reduce the % of threadform. A common bolt has a threadform of about 70-75%. At least that's the way that I understand it. Maybe Harry could verify that. I'm sure he has more experience on the subject than I do.
James, a button die can be very difficult to start without a long taper on the rod but a split die in a suitable wrench, that is one which has a pointed screw which when tightened increases the diameter slightly making for an easy start. If after completing the thread it is too tight to go into it's nut, simply slacken the pointed screw which will reduce the diameter and make a second run down the thread which will remove a small amount of metal after which the nut will move easily along the rod.
Charles, shot #3 at the start to this thread a shows a 3/8" thread being made with a die but using a sliding holder made for lathe use but there is no problem using the die in a normal wrench, in which case using a tailstock chuck, I adjust the jaws to fit the die and apply tailstock pressure until the thread gets started. This way the die is at right angles to the rod and the pressure helps to get started.
The last shot shows the die holder after I was shamed into renovating it by non other than retired toolmaker Dr. Dave Zook.
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Last edited by harrysin; 09-30-2012 at 10:46 AM.
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