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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-15-2012, 09:03 PM Thread Starter
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Default Ordered the Porter Cable Jig

Hi,
I just ordered the Porter Cable deluxe 4212 Dove Tail Jig from Amazon for $149.
I am NEW to dovetailing.
I hope this jig will serve my uses and be user friendly.
My new project is a 9 drawer dresser, 3 top drawers, through doves, 6 bottom blinds, all Cherry fronts and maple boxes.
Any one got one...and got some tips, not bad reviews, tips and help please.
Thanks.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-15-2012, 09:45 PM
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1. Download the Supplemental manual from the PC web site.
2. Simple to use, but there's a learning curve on getting the router/jig adjusted for nice joints. Invest in some cheap lumber to get there, and to do your set-ups on at money time.
3. If you buy dimensional lumber instead of milling, mill it to make sure it's flat and consistent thickness. Cuts down on the planing/sanding later.
3. Learn how to hand-cut (Complete Guide to Woodworking or similar book) dovetails. Will help in understanding the joint. (i've not done this step to satisfaction yet, but trying has given me a new appreciation for the jig.
4. Enjoy!!
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-16-2012, 05:49 PM
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Steve.. congrats on the PC4212...take your time, read the instructions thoroughly! Then download the supplements as mentioned above.

When you get to designing your dresser....pay particular attention to the width of the drawers. This is very important when using this jig. This is covered within the instructions.

enjoy
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"..... limited only by imagination"

"Just smile and wave boys, smile and wave"
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-17-2012, 08:45 PM
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The supplemental instructions are also located on this site in the PC section.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-19-2012, 04:27 AM
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and I thot all amazon has is Kindles
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-22-2012, 02:46 PM Thread Starter
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wow, yeah I looked through the instructions, haven't tried the jig yet, I hope I can make nice fitting tight joints with it, it's VERY important to me to have precise looking joinery, I feel a little intimidated, but have watched some You Tube vid's too, we'll see once I give it a shot, I have 9 drawers to make, Cherry fronts, Maple sides and back, The top 3 are going to be through doves, bottom 6 half blind doves, I don't have a Band Saw right now, and I have 4/4 Maple for the sides of drawers, would like to be able to re-saw for thinner sides (weight & apearence) but I don't think I'll be planing 4/4 down too 1/2" or 5/8", Hard Maple dulls knives and tooling so quickly. 3/4" drawers I guess.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-22-2012, 03:53 PM
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Some words of advice, 4/4 drawer sides are not going to fly.
Get yourself a book on basic drawer construction or go online and research this.
Typical drawer fronts are in the 3/4"-4/4" range with drawer sides and drawer backs typically 1/2" in thickness base on the scale of the piece. The bottoms are typically 1/4"-3/8' in thickness (usually plywood unless you are making a true reproduction)which will give you more than enough strength with adding too much weight. These numbers are not randomly arrived at nor should they be determined by what tools you have or how convenient the size stock you happen to have. There are certain dimensional relationships that need to be followed to ensure that the piece pleasing to look at as well as pleasing to use.

If you haven't got a planer, then save the 4/4" for another project and purchase some 1/2" maple for the sides and backs of your drawers.
As for the dovetails, all drawer fronts should be blind. The dovetail viewed from the drawer side is very attractive, viewed from the front, not so much.

Finally, you don't need a shop full of power tools to make this piece. Dovetails are easily cut by hand with a handsaw and some sharp chisels and a lot of practice, and a well tuned hand plane can be used to dimension your stock.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-29-2012, 02:44 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Leigh View Post
Some words of advice, 4/4 drawer sides are not going to fly.
Get yourself a book on basic drawer construction or go online and research this.
Typical drawer fronts are in the 3/4"-4/4" range with drawer sides and drawer backs typically 1/2" in thickness base on the scale of the piece. The bottoms are typically 1/4"-3/8' in thickness (usually plywood unless you are making a true reproduction)which will give you more than enough strength with adding too much weight. These numbers are not randomly arrived at nor should they be determined by what tools you have or how convenient the size stock you happen to have. There are certain dimensional relationships that need to be followed to ensure that the piece pleasing to look at as well as pleasing to use.

If you haven't got a planer, then save the 4/4" for another project and purchase some 1/2" maple for the sides and backs of your drawers.
As for the dovetails, all drawer fronts should be blind. The dovetail viewed from the drawer side is very attractive, viewed from the front, not so much.

Finally, you don't need a shop full of power tools to make this piece. Dovetails are easily cut by hand with a handsaw and some sharp chisels and a lot of practice, and a well tuned hand plane can be used to dimension your stock.
Hi, thank's.
I have 9 total, 3/4" Cherry drawer fronts, and I am going to run the sides and backs through the planer to 5/8"-1/2" haven't decided yet, the bottoms of all drawers is 1/4" birch, but as far as the "doves" go, this dresser "Calls for-and looks awesome with" the top three drawers to be through dove tails. and I must say it looks very striking. nice, that is, the 6 bottom drawers are all half blind.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-29-2012, 07:39 PM
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Steve... I'd like to suggest that before you go about doing the drawers, get yourself some 3/4" popular...plane it down along with your cherry, so that everything is the same size. Then take the popular and start setting up your jig. There is alot of trial and error at first and you certainly don't want to waste all that cherry. Popular is affordable, and mills up easily. Every time I use the jig, this is what I do...must easier and much more affordable to screw up on the popular. If you have two routers,, dedicate one for the pins and one for the tails...this way, once you are set up, you don't have to worry about struggling to get bits back to where they were before, exactly.

another little thing, take some wax and just lightly run it across the top of the templates. Makes the router slide so much easier...above all, stay focused once you get going!!

Saturday I was doing some sliding dovetails with the jig with/for a friend. yack, yack, yack like a couple ole hens. next thing I knew, I have a nice little pile of aluminum shavings on the floor. No harm, no foul, but just emphasized the need to stay focused on the task at hand..

b.

"..... limited only by imagination"

"Just smile and wave boys, smile and wave"
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