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post #1 of 35 (permalink) Old 10-18-2012, 01:19 AM Thread Starter
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Default Help me design a new fence

Here is my preliminary plan for a new fence. The idea is to make something similar in concept to the original INCRA fence, with a base that clamps to the table, and then adjusts from there.

Since I want there to be no side to side play, I have one of the sides of the rut glued down, and the other can be adjusted in and out to be able to take out all the slack; that is what the knobs are for. The toggle bolt holds the fence in place.

I am still working on the front ... I want to build in a way to offest the sides for jointing, and it also needs a t-track and dust collection port.

I also will incorporate a ruler into the mix with an adjustable zero marker so it can be positioned easily.

What else would be good to include?
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post #2 of 35 (permalink) Old 10-18-2012, 03:00 AM
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Chris,

Are you going to incorporate a split fence?

James
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post #3 of 35 (permalink) Old 10-18-2012, 04:12 AM
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Here is a fence I was going to build. It has more stability than the one you are proposing IMO. If you can provide the dimensions of your table, I would be willing to finish fleshing out this one.
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post #4 of 35 (permalink) Old 10-18-2012, 09:59 AM Thread Starter
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James, yes I want it to be able to support a split fence.

Jon, that looks interesting. Thanks for sharing it. You said, "I was going to build", but it sounds like you ended up going a different direction? What happened?

One of the main goals is ease and accuracy of adjustment while keeping the fence at the same angle relative to the bit or blade. That is one of the attributes I like so much about the INCRA approach. The base stays put, and there is no play in the shaft the fence is attached to, but it can still adjust 6 inches or more.
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post #5 of 35 (permalink) Old 10-18-2012, 10:20 AM
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If you do a split fence it's a good idea to put a 45 deg back bevel at the split to allow for removable zero clearance inserts. I'm glad I did or I'd have been up a creek with a little project for my mother-in-law.

GCG
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post #6 of 35 (permalink) Old 10-18-2012, 11:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Curl View Post
James, yes I want it to be able to support a split fence.

Jon, that looks interesting. Thanks for sharing it. You said, "I was going to build", but it sounds like you ended up going a different direction? What happened?

One of the main goals is ease and accuracy of adjustment while keeping the fence at the same angle relative to the bit or blade. That is one of the attributes I like so much about the INCRA approach. The base stays put, and there is no play in the shaft the fence is attached to, but it can still adjust 6 inches or more.
Hi Chris,
Rockler put their Router Table Top, including fence and accessories on sale at a "I can't pass it up "sale"". As we speak, it is sitting here while I redesign my project around it.
By shimming the "outfeed" fence of the Rockler fence, and adjusting the cutter to the same plane with a straight edge, I can still achieve the same result. A bit more fussy, but not hard to do.
One nice thing about a router table is that all straight lines are still parallel with the bit as Bob on the router workshop continually pointed out, unlike the table saw where the fence being parallel to the blade is critical.
The way the design you presented fails is there isn't much support in the middle, just the width of the end of the board.
The design I presented clamps at each edge of the table. This spreads the support across the entire width of the table.
Rockler's approach doesn't extend completely to the edges, but the slots are far enough apart. The fence provides the "Tee Bolt" slots and a position for tape measure mounting and fence stops, so it is acceptable.

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post #7 of 35 (permalink) Old 10-18-2012, 12:23 PM Thread Starter
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...
The way the design you presented fails is there isn't much support in the middle, just the width of the end of the board.
...
Jon, I don't fully understand what you are saying here. The base clamps to the top on both ends. And the sliding part attaches to the middle of the fence, so that is where the most support would be. If anything, the ends would be more likely to flex under pressure. I am now thinking 2 sliding parts would give it the type of support you are talking about (sort of like the attached)? Of course, then there is the additional complexity of making sure there is no play in 2 shafts, not just one.

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One nice thing about a router table is that all straight lines are still parallel with the bit as Bob on the router workshop continually pointed out, unlike the table saw where the fence being parallel to the blade is critical.
...
I understand this as well. I guess I neglected to mention that I hope to be able to use a similar approach for a replacement fence for my table saw, since that is a very inexpensive saw with a rudimentary fence that has a lot of play and can easily be set up such that it is not parallel to the blade.
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post #8 of 35 (permalink) Old 10-18-2012, 04:54 PM
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Hi Chris,
That old saying "a picture is worth a thousand words" is very applicable here. Give me your table top dimensions and I will show you what I mean.

One of the first lessons I learned about table saws was given to me by one of the carpenters at Northrop when I first started working there.
1. make sure the saw is parallel to the miter gauge slot.
2. Never trust the fence. Always measure at both ends of the slot (front and back) to get the same measurement you got at the blade. This ensures that the fence is parallel to the blade.
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post #9 of 35 (permalink) Old 10-18-2012, 06:14 PM Thread Starter
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the actual table saw's table is 17 9/16" front to back, and 24 1/2" left to right.

and i have learned that i cannot trust the fence to be parallel to the blade (without help) because of the slop i am referring to. the blade is parallel to the miter slot (by the way the miter gauge also has too much slop), and perpendicular to the front and back edges. so when i set the fence, i use a speed square to make sure it (the fence) is also perpendicular, which would then make it parallel with the blade.

one more reason why i want to replace the fence with a setup that has no slop so i can be more confident it is parallel with the blade.
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post #10 of 35 (permalink) Old 10-18-2012, 06:30 PM
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Here is another split fence. I didn't build this one because it clamped to the top like the rockler one does. Maybe a hybrid from both would work. Instead of screws, a cam action clamp would appeal to your wish for quick release. This fence was popular years ago:
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