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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-18-2004, 06:44 PM Thread Starter
 
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Default Simple Box Joint Jig

I made this simple jig for a 1/4 inch box joint. you clamp it to the table. Not too fancy but it works!


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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-19-2004, 05:41 PM
 
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Very nice. Thanks for the pictures. What do you use to hold the stock while you push it through?
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-19-2004, 06:11 PM
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Yes, please tell us about how the stock is pushed through and how you do the adjustment to get the initial 1/4" for the bit and strip. Also is the clamping to hold the jig in place those 2 spring clamps?

Ed
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-19-2004, 06:42 PM Thread Starter
 
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Default Box joint

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Originally Posted by reible
Yes, please tell us about how the stock is pushed through and how you do the adjustment to get the initial 1/4" for the bit and strip. Also is the clamping to hold the jig in place those 2 spring clamps?

Ed
I push the stock through by standing it up straight against the wood strip and hold a backup piece of wood behind it to avoid tearout when I use pine. I am going to come up with a safer way to hold the wood soon. I drilled the hole first. It's 3/4 inches. After the hole was drilled, I cut a 1/4 inch dado in the wood 1/4 inch from the rim of the hole. I used a piece of 5/16 plywood for the jig and the dado is 3/16 deep with the strip sticking up 3/8 from the bottom of the dado. I was using two spring clamps to hold it to the table but I found it was slipping when I fed the stock from right to left so I lined up the jig like I was going to cut some stock, clamped it down with two pony clamps and drilled two 3/8 holes through the jig right into my table and now I can bolt it down so it won't move. I'm going to add more pictures so you can see what I did.

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Last edited by g-man; 11-20-2004 at 03:01 PM. Reason: added more pictures
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-20-2004, 04:54 PM
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I was a little worried about having the spring clamps holding things that was a good improvement!

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-21-2004, 09:02 AM Thread Starter
 
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Default Box joint jig

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I was a little worried about having the spring clamps holding things that was a good improvement!

Ed
Glad to help. By the way, the reason half of the jig is pegboard is the fact that I ran out of plywood. I will improve this thing as I go on and maybe make one for a 3/8 box joint. I'd like to make one for dovetails but that will be more involved.


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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-13-2005, 06:14 PM
 
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Default Box Joint Jig

Thanks I think I get how to step off the side part of the joint so that the sides line up when assembled. Does the "slider" on the 1/4" fence stay with the piece you are routing or does it tend to move independently.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-15-2005, 09:33 AM Thread Starter
 
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Default Slider

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Thanks I think I get how to step off the side part of the joint so that the sides line up when assembled. Does the "slider" on the 1/4" fence stay with the piece you are routing or does it tend to move independently.
Bob


The slider goes on for the first cut and comes off. You move the work piece onto the 1/4 inch strip and make the second cut and keep lining up the notches over the strip until you get to the end.

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-15-2005, 06:25 PM
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Now if you make the jig and push block out of UHMW plastic your work will slide easier. Of course it will cost you more than just going to the Oak Park site and buying Bob and Ricks identical jig.

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-23-2005, 06:53 PM Thread Starter
 
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Originally Posted by aniceone2hold
Now if you make the jig and push block out of UHMW plastic your work will slide easier. Of course it will cost you more than just going to the Oak Park site and buying Bob and Ricks identical jig.
Mike, Oak Park's prices are not in my price range. The shipping is always too high!


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