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Prototype "Micro" Adjuster

17K views 26 replies 16 participants last post by  Nickp 
#1 ·
I saw a micro adjuster online and thought that I could come up with something that would cost a lot less. I made this from very little scrap and hardware I had laying around. I'm sure it could be made for less than $5. It needs a little tweeking but this is the first try. Please let me know what you think and any ideas you may have, thanks.
 

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#2 ·
I like it, Mike. The price is right, it works, and it's simple with no frills. The spring is a nice touch that I hadn't considered before. I need to re-evaluate the one I made for my drill press.
 
#3 ·
What? Oliver is impressed by someone! Usually, it is the other way around. :wink::sarcastic:

However, I'm in agreement. It doesn't always have to be pretty or expensive to get from point "A" to point "B".

Bill
 
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#15 ·
Awesome!! Let me know how it goes. I've been using mine and I think it's great. Get some pics on here if you make any changes. I'd love see what modifications guys make to it. Thank you!! Hmmm, I wonder if I could charge $25 for an idea?!
 
#27 ·
Some people do...

Thanks for sharing...spring is great idea to eliminate the backlash issue...nice...
 
#16 ·
This is really good! I've been thinking there's got to be a simple solution for a small adjuster but haven't committed the time to making it. Usually when I make any type of tool it generally takes at least 3 tries to get a functional model - You've done 1 and 2 for me so thank you very much.
Why 2 springs?
 
#19 ·
Mike,

If I'm seeing this correctly, you lock down the micro-adjuster with the C-clamp once the fence is positioned more of less where you want it? If not true, can you explain it a little - I'm missing it.

If you do have to re-clamp between setups, did you have any thoughts / ideas on a more permanent mounting / quick adjustment mechanism?

I went a similar route. I like the fine adjustment it provides (18tpi over a 3ft pivot length) but its a nuisance as the back of my table is a little inaccessible. I have to disconnect for each setup. (I can provide pics if needed). I'm looking to build version 2.0.

I thought about using one of those Rockler blue quick release knobs but that only allows positive movement in one direction.

Thanks
Mark
 
#20 ·
Hey Mark, you have the idea, however I used the C clamp so that I could remove the fence if need be.(as you can see it's not much of a router table) I could easily attach the rear piece permanently as long as the bolt and springs are long enough. Than I just get it close using the cam lock on the side without the adjuster, and use the adjuster from there to fine tune.
Another thought I did have was, instead of using a carriage bolt put a small piece of "T" track in the part mounted to the fence and simply use a standard 1/4-20 bolt or a 5/16 "T" bolt. This would solve your problem of getting to the back of the saw, you could simply slide the bolt out. There's also no reason I can think of that if you reversed everything that it couldn't be permanently mounted and then again you wouldn't have to get to the back of the table.
I hope this makes an ounce of sense to someone, because I think I just lost myself. :no: Please let me know and I'll try to do a better job of explaining myself!!
 
#21 ·
sorry to be a little slow but,

I can't quite figure out how it works - I see a lateral slide. How does the fence on the springs lock in place?

If you could add a couple of pics of the whole assembly from a distance front, and side, taken about 3 feet back it would help.

Thank you.

S.
 
#23 · (Edited)
More pics

Alright my friend, here's the pics. I stole the through knob for another jig until I pick one up, so I just put a nut on it for now. Hope these help, if not shoot me a PM and we'll figure something out, I'm happy to help out however I can. I guess I could add a little more info. here DUH. So looking at the first picture you can see the two gold cam locks which lock the fence in place. To set it up I unlock both and move the left side(in the picture, so from the rear) and get the fence close to where I want it, and then lock that cam. Then I move to the adjuster, if I loosen the knob the spring pushes the fence forwards, and when I tighten it the fence is pulled back. Once I get it where I want it, I lock the cam on this side and I'm in business. Where you may be getting confused is the piece that's clamped down. Keep in mind, that it's not threaded, the bolt just slides through.
 

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#25 ·
Looks like great work; nice close ups, but how does it work???

As requested, try a pic about 3 feet back, how does it mount?
Steve, did you read the paragraph above the pictures? There are several pictures that at least 3ft. away. The small piece in the fence is fixed to the fence, it doesn't move. The bigger piece with the knob is fixed to the table and the bolt is free to slide through it. With the spring between them, when I loosen the knob the spring pushes the fence forward. When I tighten the knob it pulls the fence back.
 
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