Router as jointer - Router Forums
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-22-2016, 09:03 AM Thread Starter
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Default Router as jointer

I've found a jointer alternative, Actually two alternatives. Of course these alternatives are still jointers, functionally that is, though the tool might not be identified as such. (For those who enjoy philosophy: same description, different referent.)

On the one hand have this 1/2" OD, 1/2" mount router bit, much like the one shown. If I place it properly aligned with the fence then I can manage the short sides of a piece. (Which is all I see myself needing to do for long, long time.) Then I have to add a shim of some sort to the output side for a smooth transition. Shouldn't be hard.

The second alternative involves getting this: A-Billi-T Jointer
Doesn't cost much. Doesn't take up much space. And from what I've been researching it provides a very practical & precise solution to jointing. And I can use that same bit.

Anyone here use the Joint A-Billi-T?
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-22-2016, 10:29 AM
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No Colin but the principle is simple enough and many of use something similar for making grooves or as a ripping jig for circular saw. All it is is a straight edge that you follow.There is a similar jig which is used to cut lumber straight on a table saw. Nothing magical about it and you can make your own but by the time you buy the clamps and the plywood you wouldn`t be much farther ahead of that CL listing.

I don`t know this jig but I`m assuming it is more commonly used for ripping on a saw where the jig is guided by the fence. If you do that on a router table you would have to have the jig between the router table fence and the bit. In this case you would have to feed left to right instead. The biggest problem is that the direction of rotation of the router bit is trying to pull the board and jig away from the fence so the only way I would attempt that is to clamp another board to the router table and trap the whole thing between 2 fences.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-22-2016, 12:02 PM
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I've set up a router table using a 1/2" spiral two-flute end mill for use as an edge jointer when our regular jointer was off limits waiting for new blades. Buried the bit in the fence. Added a few layers of masking tape on the outfeed side. Then set the blades flush to that side. The spiral bit left a nearly polished edge, taking off as little as .002 to .005 for each layer of tape.


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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-22-2016, 12:15 PM
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I've had success with using a router table for jointing small stuff, but never tried it with anything big.
I've seen lots of home made table saw jigs for jointing, it'll do in a pinch.
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-22-2016, 12:16 PM
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that does cost much...
use a clamp on straight edge guide w/ your router and a down shear trim bit much like this one...
when the pieces are narrow use your guide on the bottom/ubder side of the material and run the bearing against the guide's edge...
you can use the guide on other tools too...

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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-23-2016, 09:50 PM
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Hi Collin.
My "jointer" is a two part fence (faced with Corian) and a set of Rockler Router Table Jointing Shim Sets. The outfeed side has
wing nuts on the back, which, when loosened allow you to use any of the 2" X 14" shims (each set has 4 ea .010, one of .020
and one of .040, plus a .005" steel I made up). Also use a 2" long 1/2" bit. Lay in the shim(s), snug it up, and go to town.
Most recently I did some 4/4 Walnut and it worked perfectly. Corian came from a Re-Store, and the angled aluminum backer
was from another Woodworkers Supply (can't remember the name, it was a few years ago) Cheap Thrills set-up that works great.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-24-2016, 01:45 AM
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Hi Collin,
I maade such a unit after watching an internet video of a commercial U.S. made product. In fact, I made three in different sizes, as it involved buying a 6 metre length of steel C channel, for which I would have had no other use.
The idea is that you use the same jig to saw a board, and then switch to the router to joint the sawn edge. Couple of provisos: a. Need a smallish circular saw (trim saw), mounted on a base plate (for years I used one made fom a Plexiglass clipboard), such that the distance between the edge of the baseplate and the saw blade is 1 or 2 mm greater than the distance between the edhe of your router base and the router bit. BTW, that means a saw with the motor on the left, or else a saw with a worm drive - not available around here for ages. The latter is probably better for balance, but not critical, as the saw cut is just for rapid sizing. b. The hold-down board that comes with the jig may have to be replced, depending on the diamete of your router base. This is a simple matter: unscrew the old board from the top metal straightedge guide, replace with an oversize board, and trim to size first with the saw on its baseplate, then with your router. c Advisable to glue down strips of router anti-slip mat both on the metal base, and on underside of hold-down board, particularly if you will be working on laminate-covered boards. Otherwise you have to ratchet up the pressue on the clamps, to the point where the straight-edge may bow upwards, if it is long (my long unit can take full-size sheet goods). d. The final-width hold-down board must be wider than the base channel, otherwise you will route steel - noise, sparks, that sort of thing.
The use is simple: mark the board at both ends of the cut, slide it into the jig (under the hold-down board), align the marks with the edge of the hold-down board and clamp. Then cut with the saw, and trim with the router. Note that depending on the saw, you may be cutting from right to left, whereas the router will travel from left to right. Since both tools ride on the hold-down board, in theory the cuts should be square to the surface of the workpiece. The straightnes of the cuts depends on the straightnees of the metal straightedge (typically square-section steel tubing), but if the latte is not dead-on, all is not lost: the jig is double sided, so mating edges should be cut and trimmed on opposite sides of the jig to get matching edges.
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 01-24-2016, 10:29 PM
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Both my router tables (INCRA and Craftsman) have the capability to be used as jointers. The outfeed fence can be set proud of the infeed fence by a micro-smidge to accomodate and use a flush trim bit.
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