From now unless I get comfortable with it I might set my depth a little shy of what I think it should be. I remember when making the cuts being worried it was too long.
You only get one chance at bit depth with a dovetail bit. If you adjust the depth and make a second pass, you'll end up with notches on the sides of the cut.
The only way I've found to get consistent results with the dovetail jig is to tinker with scrap OF THE SAME THICKNESS AS YOUR FINAL WORKPIECE until you get a good joint ON THE FIRST PASS. The reason is this: When you put the workpiece back in the jig for a second try, it will be a thousandth or so away from its original position. The router bit will shave that thousandth off one side of your pins or tails, but it doesn't put any wood back on the other side. So your pins or tails get narrower and the cuts get wider. That may make your test joint fit, but it's not easily repeatable.
So keep tinkering with scrap. Cut the pins and tails off your two test pieces and try again until you get good joints on the first pass. Then you're ready to move on to your workpiece.
That's why I like having two routers for dovetailing. Once you find the proper bit depth, you can quit fussing with that and only worry about adjusting the jig properly, and keeping track of the inside and outside of the drawer, and remembering to use the correct bit on the correct side of the jig, and I forget what else . . . .
Oh, you'll need a second guide bushing to use two routers.
I took a Sharpie and wrote INSIDE 2 ME on one side of the jig and OUTSIDE 2 ME on the flip side of the jig. The color of the ink matches the color of the router I use on that side. That's after multiple screw-ups where I put the board in backwards or grabbed the wrong router.
A lot of things have to be right to make good dovetails, and a momentary lapse of attention can leave you cursing. But it's wonderful when it all comes together.
Keep at it, and Good Luck!