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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-28-2016, 12:35 PM Thread Starter
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I used the D4R for a large dovetailed blanket chest and it worked quite well, however I am really questioning its use to make one standard drawer with half blinds in front and through DT in back. I recently did this and I think it took longer than hand cutting the DTs. Unless I am doing something wrong, there seemed to be a LOT of steps to do this.. I cut the half blinds first using just one side of the jig, but to do the through DTs for the back requires using both sides of the jig, right ? In hind sight I think it would have been easier to cut the TDs in back first using one side of the jig, then cut the HBs in front using both sides of the jig. There would have been less bit switching this way.

How do others do this ?
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-28-2016, 07:18 PM
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welcome to the forums oh new nameless person...

I never DT the backs of drawers...
since I like the aesthetics of them .. seldom do blinds either...

okay so that was no help...

the tech support at Leigh is absolutely 1st rate if you ever have the need or inclination and will bend over backwards to help...
800-663-8932 (Canada/USA)...

This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-28-2016, 09:06 PM
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1. If you are only building one drawer, yes, maybe you could cut the dovetails faster by hand. However, once you get your jig set up, you can make lots of drawers in a hurry.
2. Once you determine through trial and error the jig settings for a particular bit and drawer thickness, you record that setting and skip that step in the future.
3. I use two routers for dovetailing and don't change the bit until I'm finished with the dovetail project. That saves the step of changing bits and setting the bit depth.
4. If you're doing half-blind on front, why not do half-blind on the back too?
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-29-2016, 01:21 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Stick486 View Post
welcome to the forums oh new nameless person...

I never DT the backs of drawers...
since I like the aesthetics of them .. seldom do blinds either...

okay so that was no help...

the tech support at Leigh is absolutely 1st rate if you ever have the need or inclination and will bend over backwards to help...
800-663-8932 (Canada/USA)...
Thanks-- I have called them several times, once for the D4R and a few times for a different jig. Their support is great !

Dan
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-29-2016, 01:22 AM Thread Starter
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1. If you are only building one drawer, yes, maybe you could cut the dovetails faster by hand. However, once you get your jig set up, you can make lots of drawers in a hurry.
2. Once you determine through trial and error the jig settings for a particular bit and drawer thickness, you record that setting and skip that step in the future.
3. I use two routers for dovetailing and don't change the bit until I'm finished with the dovetail project. That saves the step of changing bits and setting the bit depth.
4. If you're doing half-blind on front, why not do half-blind on the back too?
Thanks,
I have never had good repeatability with recording settings, perhaps due to always using different wood varieties ... although I've only made a couple of drawers with the D4R. After the last one I told myself that I wasn't going to do this again until I had two routers, so your suggestion just reinforced that notion. Also, I did consider HBs in front and back-- don't really have a good reason why I didn't do it. The back of a drawer is about the last thing I'm worried about anyone seeing.

No fault of the D4R, but something else that plagues me is that damn e-bushing loosing up and rotating out of the "10" position.

Dan
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-29-2016, 12:05 PM
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No fault of the D4R, but something else that plagues me is that damn e-bushing loosing up and rotating out of the "10" position.

Dan
Oh, I bought brass bushings from Rockler for both routers. And a bigger dovetail bit and a bigger straight bit from Whiteside. Both in 1/2" shank. Don't have to make so many passes to hog out the middle. You'll need bigger bushings for those 1/2" shanks. I just bought two full sets. And the spending never ends . . .
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 04-29-2016, 12:30 PM
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I made my first drawers with my D4R using 1/2 blind dovetails and it was a major pain.

Now I do my drawers with through dovetails all around to make 4 sided drawer boxes, and then I attach the drawer faces to these boxes after the box is in the cabinet and attached to the slides. It's much faster and easier to position the drawer face correctly when done this way and the look of the dovetails still shows the quality of the work. Double sided tape (marginally effective) or two temporary screws through the handle holes of the drawer face hold the drawer face in the right position until I can pull the drawer out and install screws from the inside to attach the box to the drawer face permanently. The temporary screws are then removed and the handle holes drilled completely through to attach the handles. Longer handle screws are usually needed, but they are available from the Borgs. I've found this way to be a faster and more accurate way to make drawers for cabinets that still looks very professional. You can even do this with inset drawer faces.

The recorded settings works well, if you use the same bit and the same kind of wood. Otherwise, it just gets you closer to the final settings. Still worth doing, but make test cuts to get the final setting perfect.

Charley

Central North Carolina

Last edited by CharleyL; 04-29-2016 at 12:33 PM.
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