A Different Router Sled Idea - Router Forums
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-20-2016, 08:00 AM Thread Starter
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Default A Different Router Sled Idea

Saw this on Pinterest. good idea but seems it would waste quite a bit of wood by the time you flipped it and removed the grooves

Surfacing rough lumber without a 16" jointer - by GaryK @ LumberJocks.com ~ woodworking community
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-20-2016, 09:32 AM
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If the sled is built accurately, and a bowl bit is used, you'll get a surface ready for sanding.
My sled is used to smooth end grain slabs (big cookies) and wild grained woods that a planer would ruin.
For twisted stuff, Gary's sled would give you one flat surface so the other side could be planed.
Loss of wood will be no more than other methods of producing straight, flat stock from rough cut and/or twisted lumber.
Thanks for posting this.

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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-20-2016, 10:29 AM
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I'd like to know what Harry's opinion is on this one

I donít always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-20-2016, 10:35 AM Thread Starter
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You're correct - after thinking about it, the author does state to set the depth of the bit to the lowest point at the one side and then take the pass along the length, this would give a groove depth that runs from zero to the amount of the twist. Same on the other side. Passing the board through the planer while supported by the strips underneath would take off wood in reverse of the slots as the opposite side would be high where the slot is zero. So you wouldn't take away any more material than needed to make the board flat,

The advantage, for a part that fits through the planer, is that you're not leveling the whole surface with the router sled, only cutting the two grooves so the process is going to be much quicker.

I wonder, for wider boards, whether a central slot would be needed for thinner boards.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-20-2016, 10:46 AM Thread Starter
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Kind of on the router sled subject - I just saw an ad for this cutter

Insert Spoilboard Surfacing, Rabbeting, Flycutter, Leveler and Bed Skimming Router Bit with Scorers, 2 + 2 Design -ToolsToday.com- Industrial Quality Router Bits

says it's suitable for use in hand-held routers. Not sure that I'd have the nerve. Maybe in a sled where it's more restrained?

Have to have a lot of grainy slabs, or end grain cutting boards, to justify the cost though.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-20-2016, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by tomp913 View Post
Kind of on the router sled subject - I just saw an ad for this cutter

Insert Spoilboard Surfacing, Rabbeting, Flycutter, Leveler and Bed Skimming Router Bit with Scorers, 2 + 2 Design -ToolsToday.com- Industrial Quality Router Bits

says it's suitable for use in hand-held routers. Not sure that I'd have the nerve. Maybe in a sled where it's more restrained?

Have to have a lot of grainy slabs, or end grain cutting boards, to justify the cost though.
Interesting looking bits . Like how you rotate the cutters when dull , almost like a helical planer

I donít always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-20-2016, 11:15 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RainMan 2.0 View Post
Interesting looking bits . Like how you rotate the cutters when dull , almost like a helical planer
Exactly. There are quite a few (high priced) router cutters that have replaceable inserts, as well as wood lathe turning tools. Looking at the pictures, it appears that the depth of cut is limited to prevent heavy loads/damage to the cutter although there's no mention of recommended cut. The attached chart shows a maximum depth of 1/4", 17,000 RPM

http://www.toolstoday.com/pdf/Spoilb...eed-rate-2.pdf

but gives formulas to calculate D (depth of cut) based on chip load. Maybe one of the CNC guys can translate?
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-20-2016, 01:59 PM
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You could use that bit with router and sled provided you took a fairly shallow cut. It is very pricey but if you were doing a lot of this it would pay.

The jig in the first post seems a bit of overkill with the separate frame and the casters. That jig would take up far too much space in most shops and most guys who are doing this just use their benches.

He's also wrong about the finished size of 8/4 lumber. The reason they are referred to as 2" is because they traditionally started out as 2" back in the day when 48" to 52" head saws were used to break logs down into lumber. These saws tended to wander back and forth in the cut, especially in frozen wood. By the time the wood dried and was planed it was only 1 1/2" thick. I've worked on several of those old mills and sometimes you would still get a rough spot on a board. Sawing technology is much better these days with better saw guides and the use of water based lubes that reduce friction and cool the saw which was the main cause of saw wobble. Most of the mills in BC now target a rough board at 1 5/8" to 1 3/4" rough (construction lumber). All the hardwood mills I am aware of still go by 1/4s.

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-21-2016, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by RainMan 2.0 View Post
I'd like to know what Harry's opinion is on this one
It seems like a lot of work to me compared to my simple ski mounted plunge router with a large dish cutter. My computer is away for repair and this machine of Marlene's hasn't got my photographs in it.

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 08-21-2016, 01:12 PM
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It seems like a lot of work to me compared to my simple ski mounted plunge router with a large dish cutter. My computer is away for repair and this machine of Marlene's hasn't got my photographs in it.
I kind of figured so . My concern was shavings getting under the tires , as this would raise the bit at times as the tires are rolling over any debris

I donít always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate
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