Water Damaged oak cabinet doors - Page 2 - Router Forums
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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-16-2008, 06:24 PM Thread Starter
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When I was able to get the frame apart, I thought I've got it made. And the rot was a major downer.

Lets go shopping for some hardener, or at lease something to treat the rot.

Picked up a squeeze bottle of Elmer Rotted Wood Stabilizer from HD ... The bottle says will harden dry rotted wood!

I taped up the parts I don't want to apply it to as per instruction. And that was about it for the instruction. I'm guessing it will just be squeeze and the thing will soak into the rot.

But when I squeezed the thing out, it looks like white glue but very slightly more viscous. At this point, I'm pulling out my cheap utility brush to spread the stuff.

This stuff feels like white wood glue, looks like white glue, smells like white glue ... must be ______ ___?

Anyhow, I applied it anyways, to a bunch of pieces and lets see what is looks like in the morning. I have a feeling I'll be making another trip back to HD to return this fraud.

My opinion; worth price paid
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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-16-2008, 06:45 PM
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Hi Joe,

There's another possibility, they could've used 2 different bits to form the edge, or a moulder. You might try looking in PriceCutters.com edge forming section.

Hope this helps.

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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-16-2008, 07:49 PM
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Joe, I think it is time for you to discover the joys of working with hand tools. This is the excuse you have been looking for to buy some carving chisels. You can remove the damaged wood and replace it with automotive plastic body filler. (yes, Bondo) Once you have the filled area shaped properly and sanded smooth you can begin your new art career. After a thin coat of shellac to seal the surface you dye the repair to match the wood color. The next step is to draw in the grain with special markers designed for the purpose. When you are satisfied with the appearance you top coat the repair with shellac. Mohawk Professional Finishing Products can supply any tints or grain markers you need. The final step is to assemble the doors and hang them. I know this sounds like a real pain, but you can accomplish amazing repairs with Mohawk's products. I repaired a gouge in the top of an oak dresser this way and I could not see the repair when done.

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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-16-2008, 09:44 PM
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I'm wondering if the rails and stiles were made from molding for floor to wall. Find some that looks right, and flatten the backs of them.

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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-17-2008, 06:10 AM Thread Starter
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Mike,

I'm going to head out to the body shop and see. I've read up on bondo, and wasn't too sure about it. But since I have full access to a professional body shop, and all its tools and knowledgeable experts here, why the heck not. Sure I'll get a completely puzzled look on their poor faces, but we can both learn new tricks.

With respect to carving chisels .... those can get so expensive, its rediculous. I'd love to find a set off the back of a truck, but I have better chance of winning the lottery.

Here's a decently priced chisel set: http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...504,43500&ap=1

They are no japanese type chisel, but good enough for a novice who will probably drop them on their blade edge because he can't appreciate them for what they are.

My opinion; worth price paid
Current Router: Triton 2 1/4, great multi purpose router.

Last edited by joeboxer; 11-17-2008 at 07:50 AM.
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post #16 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-17-2008, 08:34 AM Thread Starter
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Now that we are getting an automotive collision center involved, maybe I'll just refinish all 40 cabinet doors using their spray booth.

But at least one thing I noticed when taking this thing apart ... its not a biscuit frame, the original carpenter actually did a mortise and tenon joint. Good job!

My opinion; worth price paid
Current Router: Triton 2 1/4, great multi purpose router.

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post #17 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-17-2008, 09:06 AM
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As a medical microbiologist, I can comment on your mold issue.
1. 10% bleach solution (one part FRESH bleach and nine parts water) is an excellent mold killer, however be advised that organic material (wood,etc) will reduce its effectiveness by combining with the reactive part of the bleach (hypochlorite ions). The answer is to treat the affected areas with FRESHLY made bleach solution over several days. (After 24 hours bleach solutions loose a great deal of effectiveness so make it up every day just before you use it.)
2. Borate solutions are absolutely teriffic for inhibiting mold growth as well as killing termites and other bugs. (Not sure why it's taken us so long to appreciate this fact) And borate solutions are as nontoxic to humans and other mammals as you can get. There are several proprietary solutions on the market, but a 10% - 15% solution of plain old boric acid power in water will do a good job of preventing the mold from coming back.
3. Mold must have moisture to grow. Seal your door well after it's dry and you'll not have that issue again.
Best regards,
Phil
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post #18 of 21 (permalink) Old 11-17-2008, 09:59 AM
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Joe, not bench chisels, carving chisels. This set runs about $70 at Woodcraft. There are a wide variety of shapes and sizes plus they can be purchased individually.
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post #19 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-21-2008, 07:09 PM
 
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Joe,

Any tool grinders near by? Don't know what the expense would be, but might be worth a try.

Good luck,

Tom
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post #20 of 21 (permalink) Old 12-22-2008, 01:57 AM
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Joe, my two penn'orth for what it's worth. If you use any sort of water solution (bleach, whatever) don't use tap water. Tap water contains metal traces (iron etc.) that reacts with the tannin especially in oak and leaves dark stains. That's probably already happened with the water damage. Always use de-min water on any timber but especially oak.

Pete
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