Why spend $60 when you can build it for $30... - Router Forums
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-09-2016, 01:43 PM Thread Starter
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Default Why spend $60 when you can build it for $30...

Okay, so I could have bought a Long Ranger remote dust collection switch for $60, but I wanted something I could use for both 110v and 220v machines. I had a 25 amp heavy duty 3 pole contactor lying around from another project, and though about using the cheap $19 remote controlled outlets to operate it. I found a remote switch on ebay that was a little simpler setup, and the result is below.

The box is a small breaker box, it wasn't my first choice, but it works. The outlet is divided into two sides, one is switch A, the 'big' switch, and the other is an auxiliary switch that will run my radio. This makes use of the two switches on the remote.

The power cord is an old air conditioner extension cord I had laying around, I will probably make a custom length cord when I figure out where best to mount it.
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Doug
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-09-2016, 04:53 PM
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nice solution well executed...
1st rate looking work too...
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This would have been the week that I'd have finished chewing thru the restraints...
If only new layers hadn't been added....

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-09-2016, 05:01 PM Thread Starter
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next time I buy a piece of aluminum and make the cover... that steel cover was a little heavier gauge than I enjoyed cutting out.

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-09-2016, 06:18 PM
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Wow that looks pro . Your not just another pretty face Doug

currently washed up
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-09-2016, 07:02 PM
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Nice work Doug.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-10-2016, 07:13 AM
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Question. What are the 2 R1’s notation’s in you schematic? I would assume they are the switching for receptacles outlets A & B?

Great idea, think I will try this for another application too. Thanks Doug.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 07-10-2016, 08:42 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimofSC View Post
Question. What are the 2 R1’s notation’s in you schematic? I would assume they are the switching for receptacles outlets A & B?

Great idea, think I will try this for another application too. Thanks Doug.
Jim,

The circled R1 is the coil of the relay used to operate receptacle 1. It is powered by the small relay in the remote control switch. The other R1 shows the contacts of the relay that actually switch receptacle 1 on and off. I chose to do it this way for 2 reasons, since currently my dust collector draws more current than the remote switch can handle, and secondly, I can easily convert it to 220v if I upgrade the dust collector and still use the same remote control switch.

The receptacle 2 is a lower current rated receptacle and it is operated solely by the second small relay inside the remote control switch.

Hope that clears up my 'high quality' sketch... Professor Hennings, my old electrical teacher, would be ashamed if he saw that!
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-01-2017, 08:29 AM
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What relay did you use? Or is it called a contactor? https://www.quora.com/What-is-the-di...or-and-a-relay
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Contactors and Relays perform the same task of switching a circuit. ... Both are electromagnetic switches and operate under similar principles. The difference comes if we see from the application perspective. Contactors are used for high voltage switching purposes whereas relays are used for low voltage switching.
It seems the key component in this or any other switching setup is the piece that connects or disconnects the power.
From there it could be actuated by a remote control system or an Amp senseing system or even a combination.
I say combination because one could use Amp sensing component to switch the relay, then put a light bulb on the remote and power that on the same wire that runs the tool.
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-01-2017, 04:26 PM Thread Starter
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Everend,

I used a large relay (small motor contactor) from a failed 3 phase motor controller. Any quality contactor will do, as long as it's coil is the same voltage as what your remote control or current sensing device outputs.

In my case, I use the remote switch to take the 115v wall power to close the contacts on the contactor.

The big thing to remember, the purpose of using the contactor is to handle the large currents when starting the motor, and because they are more robust and can stand up to a lot of cycles without burning the contact faces off.

Look for 'definite purpose contactors' on Amazon, and you can probably find one with the coil voltage and number of poles that you need. I prefer to switch both sides of the circuit, not just the 'hot' side, so a 2 pole for single phase machinery and a 3 pole for 3 phase.

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_s...=3ME0QMQZEBU0P

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-01-2017, 04:30 PM Thread Starter
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Only drawback so far is I keep leaving the remote in my pocket.... then taking it into the house at the end of the day.
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