an unusual challenge - Router Forums
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post #1 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-05-2017, 12:12 PM Thread Starter
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Default an unusual challenge

My neighbour told me his shotgun stock had a crack.
i removed the stock from the lock.
The wood fell in half.
http://www.routerforums.com/attachme...1&d=1507223459

http://www.routerforums.com/attachme...1&d=1507223459

Suggestions for repair?
Glue, epoxy, whatever?
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post #2 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-05-2017, 12:57 PM
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I think I would use epoxy. I have fixed gun stocks before and used brass pins to help hold it. I guess you would need to ask the owner if it's okay to have the pins showing or you could plug the holes and it wouldn't show as much. Shotgun stocks are really bad about breaking where this one is broke.

Don in Murfreesboro,Tn.

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post #3 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-05-2017, 01:09 PM Thread Starter
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The good thing is he knows its bad. he also knows a new one is UK£ 500, (us$ 650) so if i can make it safe, he will be happy.
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post #4 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-05-2017, 02:13 PM
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I’d just use tightbond glue and clamp it. I doubt it would ever come apart ?

I donít always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate
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post #5 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-05-2017, 02:37 PM
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I would buy a new stock. I have tried that repair before a found that the forces involved in shooting made it fail.
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post #6 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-05-2017, 04:06 PM
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You should be able to glue it. I recommend finding 2 small, brass plates (that are engraved with an appropriate scene) that can be fitted into the stock (one on each side), then drill through and place a couple of brass pins to hold it all together. I would add something that matches to the forearm stock as well to balance it out. Most forearm stocks are small. A long, oval, brass plate on the bottom would work. It would be visible when the gun is racked vertically which is common at shooting events. That should add enough strength to keep it together as well as making it look better. You could also look into engraving the rest of the shotgun to really dress it up! What does he use it for?

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post #7 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-05-2017, 04:12 PM
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When I was a kid and worked in a gun shop they used Elmer's epoxy it dried to a honey clear color which matched most gun's stocked finish. The epoxy was stronger than the wood, so it added strength to the stock. I can't seem to find Elmer's epoxy any more. Most of the epoxies you can find at Walmart and such now days dry an awful color.
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post #8 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-05-2017, 05:33 PM
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I would use wood dowels, preferably of the same type of wood, rather than brass pins. Any modern wood glue is stronger than the wood, so I don't really see any advantage using epoxy.

There are several sites on-line offering new-made stocks, and they are usually in the $50-$100 US dollar range, unless they are made from some really exotic wood. That would be an option. I have a couple of old, like pre-1900s shotguns, that were missing the stocks. Found stocks on eBay, for reasonable prices, like around $35 or so. Oh yes, both of these shotguns were not common makes.
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post #9 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-05-2017, 08:13 PM
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If you can get one cheap, replace it. Otherwise, I'd work out the clamping needed (some kind of jig I suspect will be needed), then use Titebond III so it stays open for a bit as you clamp the pieces so that the joint disappears.

The way that sheared, the stress is the recoil going straight back. So I think a brass or even steel bar should go through lengthwise, not across the new joint. Once glued, I'd let it cure for 24 hours, then consider drilling for a 1/4 inch rod. I have some very long bits that would probably reach through the stock, and you can always drill from the the front of the repaired stock. I would consider using epoxy for the long pin. Epoxy has a way of expanding that makes it a poor choice for piecing the stock together. Titebond doesn't do that. if you want to rebalance the stock, drill for a heavier, shorter rod on the front grip, plug the opening and refinish to make it invisible.

You might have to refinish the joint a bit, maybe a little careful sanding, to make the edges of the joint disppear. You will want a little squeeze out to be certain the entire split is covered in glue.
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post #10 of 28 (permalink) Old 10-05-2017, 11:47 PM
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The main problem is the wood is impregnated with oil which will definitely inhibit a strong glue joint..iff you can find a product that nullifies the oil without discoloring the wood,then you could try that,otherwise see what Theo @ Joat said re "stocks on Ebay"

You can't drive a bridge spike with a tack hammer(so I'm told)
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