Not woodworking but I thought you might find this project interesting.
It seems crime is all around us these days, so I am taking steps to help keep the bad guys out of my garage. Note that I have already done all I can at the front door with the metal security hardware and long screws into the studs and through the hinges also. https://www.amazon.com/Defender-Secu...+lock+hardware
We also have Xfinity security with window sensors and door sensors, and storm windows on all windows. Not perfect, but it will require a whole lot of banging to get in...and the loud siren. And several of the Wyze Cameras overlooking the vehicles and keeping tabs on the front door of the house.
Now for the garage. Since we have two GM vehicles, a button on the overhead console for each one is programmed to open the garage door. Very convenient and no remote clipped to the sun visor. But all it would take is for someone to break in to the vehicle and VOILA! they are in the garage, and subsequently, the house. The Liftmaster (Chamberlain) door opener has a feature where all remotes can be deactivated, but that would require having to use the front door to get in the house. And doable. In the past, I have latched the manual latch and deactivated the remote before leaving home.
So, I got to thinking...
For the past couple of months, I have been scouring You Tube and the interweb trying to figure out how to improve our situation. I found a controller online that is basically a pair of 2 channel relays that would work and they are triggered by a key FOB (433hz). With a lot of help from Rick (
), I got them working. While I was really happy with the set up, I wanted more! So back to the drawing board.
I still have the same basic setup just a different control system. Note that I removed the manual latch from the overhead door and attached it to the wall of the garage. To lock the manual latch, a 12 volt linear actuator is triggered which extends the shaft and pushes the latch through a hole in the railing, thus blocking the door roller from getting past. Pushing another button retracts it. The third button triggers the door opener and the door will open/close.
The control system is a Raspberry Pi 3B+ and it is connected to a 4 channel relay. The 4th channel is a spare for now. The controls are activated by an app on my phone called Blynk. I have included a screen shot of the phone with the project displayed.
Another feature is a temperature sensor that is connected to the Pi that displays the current temperature and humidity. That is still a work in progress. I can get it to display the values on my computer screen, but I have not been able to get it to display on the Blynk app. I am not a programmer and still don't understand everything enough to get the display to show up on my phone. Once everything is working to my satisfaction, I will relocate the sensor to another part of the garage and run the three wires to it.
All in all, I am very happy. Three buttons is all that is on the display. One button is a momentary style, that when pushed, will open or close the garage door. And it works great!
The second and third buttons are push type so when they are pushed, they remain active and either extend or retrack the linear actuator. The actuator has built in limit switches so it stops at the end of its stroke.
If you look closely, you can see the bracket I cut on the CNC to support the end of the actuator. The opening isn't perfect but it works just fine.
Now with all of this said, I am still not through. I am going to make a box to fit over the control system to keep the dust out. I think I will use some small magnets so the box can be removed as needed if I need to access the little computer. By the way, I can access the operating system remotely from my PC in the office.
That is how I will be working on the temperature sensor issue.
Also, I have one of the Wyze cameras mounted nearby so I can observe the door and the actuator from anywhere I have internet access. Same goes for the Blynk app. I fired it up this afternoon after we finished eating. We were about ten miles from home. I checked the camera first, then hit the button to unlock the door. Pretty cool. As we approached the house, I hit the button and the door started to go up!
Right now my work bench that I am so proud of looks like an electrical experimental work bench!
I will post some pictures as I go along with the development. Disclaimer: Everything in this project is low voltage - 12 volts for the actuator and 5 volts for the little computer. No 120 volt stuff.
Now my daughter wants a control system just to open their garage door. They have been having problems galore and the only thing that really works is the push button on the wall. That's perfect because that is where I tapped in to activate my door. Just short the two wires briefly and the door opener does it's thing. Parts are on order.
And...my step daughter in Tulsa has a chicken coop that could use some automation!