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post #1 of 61 (permalink) Old 10-27-2019, 04:04 PM Thread Starter
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Default Display Shelf Help

I need help, guys.

While I'm getting things together on the products that will be at my table at the craft show, I also need to work on how they'll be displayed. The signs I have a plan for. The other items? Well, I found what I would like to put on the table but I need someone to help me get the pattern going, as I can't find the pattern anywhere, only someone selling it. Here's the picture. At the very least, I need to know what angle the braces have been cut at. This was on etsy, I think. There's loads of examples; but I wanna make it, not buy it. https://www.pinterest.com/pin/557390891383308833/
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post #2 of 61 (permalink) Old 10-27-2019, 04:47 PM
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If that is not in fact a 45 degree angle, could you not just use a 45 degree angle for yours? That looks kinda cool actually.
I could see doing this with my miter gauge on my tablesaw easy enough . I’m thinking my dado could cut the areas where the parts need to be inserted.
Either that or build a jig and use a router to remove that area

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post #3 of 61 (permalink) Old 10-27-2019, 04:48 PM
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Sure looks like a 30deg/60deg/90deg triangle. Same as a draughting square(?).
https://www.draftingsteals.com/20194.html
As long as the base and the back vertical are a right angle, the length of the base and the hypotenuse could be anything that works for your display purposes.
The slots are taken off the rear vertical, at right angles to it.
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post #4 of 61 (permalink) Old 10-27-2019, 04:50 PM
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Hi Barb, hard to say for definite, but eyeballing the brace that points to the right in the image, it looks like an isosceles triangle, i.e. two sides are the same length (the third, the hypotenuse - sloping piece- is obviously longer).So the height and the length on the floor are the same, and the angle of the sloping piece to the upright is 45 degrees.
Easy to work with - for every foot in height, you need a foot of floor length.
Just a thought: you would need to more or less balance your display pieces horizontally on the shelves, i.e have some weight on those parts of the shelves “outside” of the braces, to avoid excessive torque on the angled part of the shelves, especially the lowest one. I don’t think the whole assembly will tip (unless you put real weight on the corner), but it might sag, and look sorry. And don’t let any hefty kid sit on the corner.
The specific example you referenced in Pinterest is different - looks like the angle at the apex is 30 degrees.
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post #5 of 61 (permalink) Old 10-27-2019, 07:14 PM
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Hi Barb. Going by the Pinterest picture (hate Pinterest by the way) I would say it would be easy enough to duplicate, seems no biggie to figure out the angle - not that I think you need the exact angle that is. But, if you wanted precise, full sized plans, I would mark a grid over the photo, maybe 1/4", then layout a large grid on your material (I would lay it out on cardboard, so as not to waste good wood if you screw up). Then I would copy the small grid onto the large grid, square by square. I did that on a small photo, and the large plan came out perfect - saved me $20 for plans, actually $40, because two plans. Whatever, I would lay it out on cardboard first. Works for me anyway. Or, you could print the Pinterest photo out and enlarge it - print the photo on multiple pages, trim, and tape together, then if they end product is the size you want, just cut the parts out, glue to wood, trim to size, and you can then lay out the patterns. Hmm, I understand perfectly what I just said, do that stuff a lot, and works nicely, but if you like the idea, and are confused at all, let me know and I'll try to clear things up for you.

In fact, if I were going to make that, I don't think I'd do any of the above. I'd just use a yardstick, pencil (or marker, crayon, whatever), cardboard, and lay it out until I got something I liked. Then cut out the cardboard, use that to line out the design on plywood, cut it out, paint it, put it together. It ain't rocked science. On the other hand I make stuff for the shop without plans, but when finished seldom can explain how I did it, even to myself

OK, almost forgot. When I research for a project, I do a search and look at images. So did a search for takedown tiered shelf display, images, and came up with a ton of designs I like better. Here are just a couple I particularly liked - however I didn't look far, so likely missed even more. Don't know if you could make either takedown, but looking like that I wouldn't care.
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Last edited by JOAT; 10-27-2019 at 07:30 PM.
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post #6 of 61 (permalink) Old 10-27-2019, 09:04 PM
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Quote... At the very least, I need to know what angle the braces have been cut at.

The angle of the braces will mostly be determined by the width and number of shelves you want. For example, if you want wider shelves you will need a smaller angle. If you want narrower shelves a larger angle will work. The angle I'm referring to is the bottom corner of the brace. It is no different than stairs in your home.

Let's do the math...if you want three 12" wide shelves with a height of 12" between them (starting at the floor) then the vertical leg of the brace will be 36" plus what you want above the top shelf...let's say 4". The distance of the horizontal leg of the brace from the bottom of the vertical to the bottom corner could be 36" plus the width of the vertical leg (let's say 4").

The length of the angled brace (hypotenuse) comes out to ~56 1/2". h=sqrt(40sq+40sq) or sqrt(1600+1600)

Now let's change the width of the shelves to 8" and the same 12" between shelves...h=sqrt(1600+784) 784 = (4+24) squared = length = 48.9"

Now you need to find the angle...you're gonna need a scientific/math function calculator for this... or use this site... https://www.calculator.net/triangle-calculator.html

...does this help...?
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Last edited by Nickp; 10-27-2019 at 09:10 PM.
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post #7 of 61 (permalink) Old 10-27-2019, 09:09 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RainMan 2.0 View Post
If that is not in fact a 45 degree angle, could you not just use a 45 degree angle for yours? That looks kinda cool actually.
I could see doing this with my miter gauge on my tablesaw easy enough . I’m thinking my dado could cut the areas where the parts need to be inserted.
Either that or build a jig and use a router to remove that area
No table saw, Rick no dado blades, and no miter gadge, either. It would be nice to see plans similar to scroll saw plans, or something I could transfer over, but...

Thanks for the input, though.

Barb


Get your facts first, then you can distort them as you please.
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Last edited by OutoftheWoodwork; 10-27-2019 at 09:37 PM.
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post #8 of 61 (permalink) Old 10-27-2019, 09:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OutoftheWoodwork View Post
No table saw, Rick no dado blades, and no miter gage, either. It would be nice to see plans similar to scroll saw plans, or something I could transfer over, but...

Thanks for the input, though.
Well I know who to Will my stuff to now

I don’t always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate
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post #9 of 61 (permalink) Old 10-27-2019, 09:18 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DaninVan View Post
Sure looks like a 30deg/60deg/90deg triangle. Same as a draughting square(?).
https://www.draftingsteals.com/20194.html
Where's the 30 and where's the 60? I know the 90 (straight up and down, right? ) Remember, nothing I do is literal; meaning I would fail a course in the technicality of woodworking. I "fly-by-the-seat-of-my-pants" as they say.

P.S. I think you may be on to something there! It does look like that, doesn't it?? If only a tiny bit off, maybe. Either that, or it's the angle of the picture, giving an illustion.

Barb


Get your facts first, then you can distort them as you please.
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There cannot be a crisis next week. My schedule is already full.
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post #10 of 61 (permalink) Old 10-27-2019, 09:20 PM
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Barb...see my post above for determining the angles...but...

I checked your profile and don't see any "cutting" tools...do you have a circular saw...? Or, what do you use to cut the pieces for your signs...?

Nick

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