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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-04-2012, 05:28 PM Thread Starter
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Thumbs up Your advice wanted

Here is the idea, I have a design in mind for an arched top box, it will look like a flatened bell I suppose. Dimensions will be, roughly, 9" deep, 18" wide and 3" high. I want to bandsaw it so that the bell curve is a max. of 3/4" thick. (These are the dimensions of just the top, not the whole box).

Here is the question, if I glue up 3 or 4 blanks to get the desired 3" and then saw it out, how will the end grain, and the glue lines look? As opposed to getting some 12/4 stock and just using that?

Here is the caveat, I want to use curly, (tiger), maple so a 12/4 blank won't be cheap or easy to come by, but I am afraid the glue lines will show up and ruin the effect.

I am attaching a sketchup jpg my son doctored for me. This is not entirely mine, I downloaded the spice box, then made some changes to it. It looks angled because of the perspective, it's not.

Thanks!
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Jack


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Last edited by Jack Wilson; 05-04-2012 at 10:30 PM.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-04-2012, 05:35 PM
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Why don't you make a form & use several layers to reach your thickness & do a bent lamination. There will be no end grain to worry about. The full face of your curly maple will show with no glue lines. Don't use Titebond III it may leave a slightly darker glue line on the ends. I would use I or II.

Bent Wood Lamination Basics - Woodworking Techniques - American Woodworker
Build the Apron (Bent Lamination) - YouTube

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Last edited by jlord; 05-04-2012 at 05:42 PM.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-04-2012, 07:02 PM
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Thanks to Jack for asking, and James for tossing his idea (with links!) out in response.


The bent wood approach is very appealing to me in this case, were I to tackle a project like this.

On the other hand, from time to time it is fun to 'rescue' a piece of wood from the wood shed and use it for something other than fuel. I haven't used a microwave oven for a wood drying kiln yet, but have been thinking about picking up an 'old' junker model from Craig's list or wherever to dedicate to that task.

wbh1963 is flowing with the grain in Arlington, Washington, USA

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-04-2012, 07:03 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jlord View Post
Why don't you make a form & use several layers to reach your thickness & do a bent lamination. There will be no end grain to worry about. The full face of your curly maple will show with no glue lines.

I THINK I want kind of a wave to show thru from the grain, I won't get that if I do a bent lamination. Maybe after seeing what I think I want, I'll not like it, then the bent lam will make a LOT of sense.

Jack


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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-04-2012, 09:42 PM
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Build your form out of 1/8 baltic birch and the veneer maple onto it and put solid wood caps on the exposed edges. That's how thry did it in a Fine Woodworking article recently.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-04-2012, 10:36 PM Thread Starter
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James, I keep running your idea around in my head, and it's slowly getting more appealing.
Chuck, not even considering the end grain, that will be burried. I wonder how the curly maple would look if I took a 12/4 and bandsawed the shape out of it. Thats what I thought I wanted to see, plus no "plywood". Then I thought about gluing slabs together to get up to 12/4 but was worried about glue lines. I never considered laminating until James suggested it, which although I may not be ready to embrace, is the whole reason I posted. Ideas and thoughts outside my box, my comfort zone.

Jack


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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-05-2012, 08:32 AM
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Hi Jack.
If you decided to use a bent lamination you would not get a plywood look along the edges. End grain would be on the end the same place it would be if you cut the shape out of 12/4. Plywood looks that way because of the change in grain direction with each layer. With a bent lamination the long grain would be going the same direction. It's done all the time making custom curved handrails for staircases. I would suggest not to use Titebond III in this situation as it will sometimes leave a darker glue line. Use I or II instead.

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Have a nice & safe day!

Last edited by jlord; 05-05-2012 at 08:36 AM.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-06-2012, 10:56 PM Thread Starter
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I decided to try a scaled down version of the top, I first drew a rough draft of 1/2 of the curve of the top on a scrap of pine, then cut up 3.5" wide sections of curly maple. I then glued up the maple blanks and will bandsaw and then sand them and have a look at what I get. I wanted to use curly maple for this test because I wanted to see what the full effect would be, I wouldn't get that with pine. I only made 1/2 of the top and only 3.5" deep to save on the cost of this prototype. If it looks bad, I won't have lost quite so much. If it looks good,, well, I still won't have lost so much. It's almost a win win! If I have time I will saw this out and sand it tomorrow. I will post finished photos either way, if it looks good or not. Along with my opinion and any fine details I see that the pictures may not display. I will be brutally honest.
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Jack


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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-07-2012, 12:04 AM
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Hi Jack,
You always find such interesting projects to work on.

I think you are on the right track now with the mockup. You should be able to see if you get the results you are looking for. The left overs could be used for pen blanks and could be glued up for interesting pen blanks. Looking at the wood you have I just couldn't throw away any of it.

I know you probably know this but your sanding will be a major requirement. I would probably take it to 600 grit so it is slick before I applied the finish. Hopefully it will take your breath away when you see how it looks.

The only thing I would have done differently would be to use different glues and adhesives to glue up the blank on each level and one end to the other if you wanted to test several products. Next time consider this and make yourself a drawing of the mockup and note where each glue or adhesive was applied so you know what the glue line looks with each sample. You might find one or 2 that will work great and find some that you really want to avoid.

Looking forward to seeing your results,

Mike
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-07-2012, 06:02 AM Thread Starter
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Hi Jack,

The only thing I would have done differently would be to use different glues and adhesives to glue up the blank on each level and one end to the other if you wanted to test several products. Next time consider this and make yourself a drawing of the mockup and note where each glue or adhesive was applied so you know what the glue line looks with each sample. You might find one or 2 that will work great and find some that you really want to avoid.

Looking forward to seeing your results,
Thats a great idea. I wish I had considered that last night. I had to choose between tightbond, white gorilla glue or original. I went with the white gorilla, but as you pointed out I could have added the titebond as well. Sadly I did "think" of it, but not far enough ahead to try two glues at once. I was thinking, "I wonder how the titebond will look and work?" But, I was also hoping that the fast drying gorilla would give me time to cut the blank last nite, as it was, it was after 10 by the time I was done so after cleanup and unclamping I just headed in anyways.

Jack


He is no fool who gives what he cannot keep to gain what he cannot lose

If you cannot stand behind our troops, (and I understand, no judgement here), then please stand in front of them, remember, they're willing to stand in front of you!
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