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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-23-2014, 01:24 PM Thread Starter
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Recently I had the feelings that I was writing to much about things that were not particularly very interesting. But because I have been encouraged to do some more writing on the forum by a couple of members and one moderator I will do so.

In another thread I asked about the lower thrust bearing on my Grizzly Band Saw. After installing a new one I went through the drill of setting the saw up again with a new Lenox Bi Metal four tooth half inch blade. In doing so I learned something that I did not know before.

It started after I thought that I had all of the bearings set correctly. I would turn the top wheel by had to see how everything was working, but I was getting a noise like something dragging. I could not find what was causing the noise, it sounded like it was coming from the blade guard, but just couldn't locate it. I had turn the radio off in the shop to hear the sound.

Finally, almost in desperation to find where the sound was coming from, I removed all six of the bearing and the sound was gone. When the saw was turned on it ran smooth as it should, this eliminated the blade guard, ummm.

I carefully re-installed and re-set the bearings. I found, purely by accident that my first set up was not quite right. The very slightest error in one of the bearings can cause the noise that I was hearing. I mean just one bearing just barely touching the blade had made the very disturbing sound. The noise was not constant kind like a clicking sound. The issue, or I think that the issue was that one of the guide bearings setting was very very close but there must be the slightest variation in the thickness of the blade, and at one point the thickest part ofhe blade would make contact with one of the bearings creating that clicking noise. Setting a bearing using a random spot on the blade would work if the blade was exactly the same width all the way around. I'm talking about a variation of only a few thousandths I suspect. So, now when I set the bearings, I rotate the entire blade to be certain that there is no place on the blade that makes contact with the bearings. Sounds simple, but in my case, and my not being familiar with the mechanics of the saw, it was giving me heart burn.

I thought that after doing the first set up that I had turned the saw on and saw that the bearing were not turning, but must have missed one of them somehow and will be more careful in the future. Getting the setting perfect is very important in my opinion.

After getting the saw set up and running smoothly, I took a scrap piece of 2x4 that was only about ten inches long and made one pass to clean up on edge, not the face, only the edge. Then after the clean up cut was done, I set the blade almost as close to the fence as I could get it without contacting it and made a cut to see if the blade was cutting reasonably straight. The part cut off measured .040" thick at any point I measured it with the dial calipers. No matter where I measured it, it was exactly .040". I know that a long cut of maybe 30 inches or so would be a better test, but in the past I have had only a few thousandths variation in long re-saw cuts in hard wood with this 17" Grizzly Band Saw.

Oh yes, I need to mention that the Bi Metal Lenox blade, at least when cutting the soft wood, was very smooth, no chatter or blade marks at all. Lenox states that there carbide blades cut this way, on par with a TS blade. The Tri Master blade did indeed cut that smooth as long the cut was not forced.

By the way, Lenox just sent me a replacement blade after the one that I purchased broke at the weld. I have a company prepared to re-weld the broken blade but have not sent it to them as I am waiting to hear from the dealer that I bought the blade from to tell me why the new blade arrived and what I should do, they said that they would get back to me when I asked what was going on with the new re-placement blade.

O.K., that's all I need to write about for now, later I want to talk some more about the new Wixey DRO on the TS.

Jerry Bowen
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-23-2014, 02:27 PM
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There are some good points there Jerry. I've always heard that a blade should never break on the weld. I also think there is a good chance that the weld is where your thick spot may have been. The bands go through a roller system and I would be surprised if they vary much but the weld is done after in another setup. That's good advice to make sure you rotate the band a full turn when setting up.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-23-2014, 04:06 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cherryville Chuck View Post
There are some good points there Jerry. I've always heard that a blade should never break on the weld. I also think there is a good chance that the weld is where your thick spot may have been. The bands go through a roller system and I would be surprised if they vary much but the weld is done after in another setup. That's good advice to make sure you rotate the band a full turn when setting up.
Charles,
Logic would agree with you about the weld, but that's the first thing I checked and it was not the weld. I wish now that I had found the spot and measured it to verify my
suspicions on the matter.

I can't tell what the exact space between the blade and guide bearings ended up being. I used two thicknesses of paper that are about .006" thick for a gauge. I don't happen to own any feeler gauges, never have needed them. The space between the blade and the guide bearings is not critical, just needs to exist and be minimal as I understand it.

Lenox does warranty the weld on all of their blades or so they say, but you hae to go back through the dealer that you bought from to get the warranty done and I have found this to be a bit difficult. I bought the blade on line and only can talk to a young woman that while extremely polite is not very familiar with the procedure need to get help from Lenox. So rar as I said earlier, the only help has been the arrival of a new blade and at a cost of about $180 I don't want to unwrap it for fear of being eventually charged for it. I can have the original one welded at no cost by a company in Fort Worth, Texas. They are also a Lenox dealer.

I originally priced this blade at $340, or so I recall, but later found it oan line for the lessor cost and went ahead and bought it. I have talked at length with Lenox about the blade, but they do not sell direct to individuals.

I'm waiting to hear from the dealer as I said earlier.

Jerry
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-24-2014, 07:23 AM
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I have had a blade or two make a click sound as it passed through my Carter bearings. Found a little tool (Blade Tuning Stone - Rockler Woodworking Tools) that rounds over the back edge of a blade, but also takes off any slight burrs or high spots that cause the click. Also makes it easier to make a curved cut on a thin blade. Cheap item, nice performer.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-24-2014, 09:26 AM
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Jerry, Now that you can get a smooth paper thin piece from end to end, I think it's time for a Micro fence.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-24-2014, 10:32 AM
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Hey Jerry. Nice tip about rotating the blade through it's entire length. I had one that was driving me nuts trying to get rid of that sound, and I never did know what I did that got rid of it. I'll bet it was the same situation you had. I'm printing your tip out to keep by my setup tools. Thanks. Jim
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