I Have Been Encouraged To Write
Recently I had the feelings that I was writing to much about things that were not particularly very interesting. But because I have been encouraged to do some more writing on the forum by a couple of members and one moderator I will do so.
In another thread I asked about the lower thrust bearing on my Grizzly Band Saw. After installing a new one I went through the drill of setting the saw up again with a new Lenox Bi Metal four tooth half inch blade. In doing so I learned something that I did not know before.
It started after I thought that I had all of the bearings set correctly. I would turn the top wheel by had to see how everything was working, but I was getting a noise like something dragging. I could not find what was causing the noise, it sounded like it was coming from the blade guard, but just couldn't locate it. I had turn the radio off in the shop to hear the sound.
Finally, almost in desperation to find where the sound was coming from, I removed all six of the bearing and the sound was gone. When the saw was turned on it ran smooth as it should, this eliminated the blade guard, ummm.
I carefully re-installed and re-set the bearings. I found, purely by accident that my first set up was not quite right. The very slightest error in one of the bearings can cause the noise that I was hearing. I mean just one bearing just barely touching the blade had made the very disturbing sound. The noise was not constant kind like a clicking sound. The issue, or I think that the issue was that one of the guide bearings setting was very very close but there must be the slightest variation in the thickness of the blade, and at one point the thickest part ofhe blade would make contact with one of the bearings creating that clicking noise. Setting a bearing using a random spot on the blade would work if the blade was exactly the same width all the way around. I'm talking about a variation of only a few thousandths I suspect. So, now when I set the bearings, I rotate the entire blade to be certain that there is no place on the blade that makes contact with the bearings. Sounds simple, but in my case, and my not being familiar with the mechanics of the saw, it was giving me heart burn.
I thought that after doing the first set up that I had turned the saw on and saw that the bearing were not turning, but must have missed one of them somehow and will be more careful in the future. Getting the setting perfect is very important in my opinion.
After getting the saw set up and running smoothly, I took a scrap piece of 2x4 that was only about ten inches long and made one pass to clean up on edge, not the face, only the edge. Then after the clean up cut was done, I set the blade almost as close to the fence as I could get it without contacting it and made a cut to see if the blade was cutting reasonably straight. The part cut off measured .040" thick at any point I measured it with the dial calipers. No matter where I measured it, it was exactly .040". I know that a long cut of maybe 30 inches or so would be a better test, but in the past I have had only a few thousandths variation in long re-saw cuts in hard wood with this 17" Grizzly Band Saw.
Oh yes, I need to mention that the Bi Metal Lenox blade, at least when cutting the soft wood, was very smooth, no chatter or blade marks at all. Lenox states that there carbide blades cut this way, on par with a TS blade. The Tri Master blade did indeed cut that smooth as long the cut was not forced.
By the way, Lenox just sent me a replacement blade after the one that I purchased broke at the weld. I have a company prepared to re-weld the broken blade but have not sent it to them as I am waiting to hear from the dealer that I bought the blade from to tell me why the new blade arrived and what I should do, they said that they would get back to me when I asked what was going on with the new re-placement blade.
O.K., that's all I need to write about for now, later I want to talk some more about the new Wixey DRO on the TS.