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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-26-2008, 07:29 PM Thread Starter
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Default Need some ace advice

Hi guys! In November we converted to gas heat from oil heat. The 550 gal oil tank was in its own room attached to the basement. The room is about 15 x 9 and has block walls which is about 6 courses. The ceiling is concrete and reinforced with steel beams. The previous owner built this room to house the oil tank. The problem is condensation on the outside walls and on the ceiling and on the concrete floor. Now that the tank is gone I would like to make it a workshop. Temperature in the room is around 40. There is only 6 inches of dirt over the room(the room extends out into the yard). I would like to insulate but don't know what to put on the block walls which were already painted so DryLock is out. Would it help to introduce some heat to bring up the temp in the room? Remember this room is underground.

Gary

Last edited by seawolf21; 08-25-2008 at 06:25 PM.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-26-2008, 07:44 PM
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Hi seawolf21

Sounds like it's time to plant a garden with alot of Onions and Potatoes and use your new hole in the ground to store them in...and maybe have the boss can up some fruit and use it for them as well....

Put in some shelves to hold your new winter store supply...and just be done with it...


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Quote:
Originally Posted by seawolf21
Hi guys! In November we converted to gas heat from oil heat. The 550 gal oil tank was in its own room attached to the basement. The room is about 15 x 9 and has block walls which is about 6 courses. The ceiling is concrete and reinforced with steel beams. The previous owner built this room to house the oil tank. The problem is condensation on the outside walls and on the ceiling and on the concrete floor. Now that the tank is gone I would like to make it a workshop. Temperature in the room is around 40. There is only 6 inches of dirt over the room(the room extends out into the yard). I would like to insulate but don't know what to put on the block walls which were already painted so DryLock is out. Would it help to introduce some heat to bring up the temp in the room? Remember this room is underground.

Gary



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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-26-2008, 07:59 PM
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Hi gary,

For insulation, use either foam board and or a "spray-on" insulation. For heating, a small heater should suffice.

Ken

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-26-2008, 08:07 PM Thread Starter
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Ken will the condensation come back under the foam board insulation next winter again? How do I attach it to the walls?

Gary
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-26-2008, 08:25 PM
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The foam board can be attached using small concrete screws. Think of them just like installing sheet rock. You just want to "dimple" the material.

As for condensation, the best thing to do would be, put some kind of sealer on the walls. A dehumidifier may help reduce the condensation. The very first thing I'd do is make sure it's condensation. Tape up some tin foil or syran wrap on a wall. If the moisture is next to the wall from being covered, then it's condensation, it's on the outside, toward room, your walls are leaking moisture from the surrounding ground surface.

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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-26-2008, 09:09 PM
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I know this will sound weird but here goes.
Can you put more dirt on top of the room? You could add enough to have 18 to 36 inches. Really dirt is a great insulator. As Bob eluded to, use it for food storage. We did this on the farm I grew up on in Indiana and the "cave" maintained s constant temp. through out the year. During the summer vent the room to the outside and use a fan to keep the air moving to prevent condensation. It should work.

The other George.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-27-2008, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seawolf21
Hi guys! In November we converted to gas heat from oil heat. The 550 gal oil tank was in its own room attached to the basement. The room is about 15 x 9 and has block walls which is about 6 courses. The ceiling is concrete and reinforced with steel beams. The previous owner built this room to house the oil tank. The problem is condensation on the outside walls and on the ceiling and on the concrete floor. Now that the tank is gone I would like to make it a workshop. Temperature in the room is around 40. There is only 6 inches of dirt over the room(the room extends out into the yard). I would like to insulate but don't know what to put on the block walls which were already painted so DryLock is out. Would it help to introduce some heat to bring up the temp in the room? Remember this room is underground.

Gary
Before the old house burned down I had a room like yours. I used a waterproofing sealer like dry loc but it could be put over anything even paint. I can not remember where I got it or what it was called. After that I attached 6 mil plastic all on all the walls and used the "beaver system " around the perimeter of the floor.

Then I used the interlocking 2" foam board that in my case was tall enough to pressure fit from floor to ceiling. Finally I added a dehumidifier.

http://www.waterproof.com/

I think with the plastic and beaver system you do not need to use a sealer on the walls. The beaver system should run to a low point hopefully into a sump. I had to bust through the concrete floor and dig a hole for the sump, but it was worth it.

The room stayed dry with no mold smell for many years.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-27-2008, 11:21 AM Thread Starter
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Default My wet room

Quote:
Originally Posted by nickao65
Before the old house burned down I had a room like yours. I used a waterproofing sealer like dry loc but it could be put over anything even paint. I can not remember where I got it or what it was called. After that I attached 6 mil plastic all on all the walls and used the "beaver system " around the perimeter of the floor.

Then I used the interlocking 2" foam board that in my case was tall enough to pressure fit from floor to ceiling. Finally I added a dehumidifier.

http://www.waterproof.com/

I think with the plastic and beaver system you do not need to use a sealer on the walls. The beaver system should run to a low point hopefully into a sump. I had to bust through the concrete floor and dig a hole for the sump, but it was worth it.

The room stayed dry with no mold smell for many years.
Ok Guys the condensation is only on the walls and ceiling.The walls that are closest to the basement wall are dry. The outside walls have the condensation. The ceiling is dripping condensation because there is not enough dirt above. I am going to put more dirt above this summer. This only happens when the cold winter weather is here. All summer it is dry. The Beaver system wouldn't work because water isn't coming in at the bottom. I also have a sump pump and a backup pump installed in case the power goes out during a storm.

Gary

Last edited by seawolf21; 02-27-2008 at 11:26 AM. Reason: more text
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-27-2008, 11:29 AM
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Hi Gary

I didn't get your snapshots ..in the email..

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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-27-2008, 01:22 PM
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Hi Gary

Got it,,, man,,, I don't know on this one,sorry, I for one would not put any tools in this the room looks like you may have water coming under the walls as well and that's big job to fix that.. ..have you given any though about a hot tub room... that would be nice when you get time off the ship..

Tools
They will look like the picture below in time I think not to say anything about the power coming into the room , little low or anything about MOLD, nasty stuff...once you put a little heat in the room..it will popup..


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Last edited by bobj3; 02-27-2008 at 01:38 PM.
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