Router Raizer, Lock the router or not? - Router Forums
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-23-2016, 02:26 PM Thread Starter
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Default Router Raizer, Lock the router or not?

Hi guys, anyone know if the router lock must be used when using a router raizer or if the router raizer is enough to hold the router at the desired height?
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-23-2016, 02:35 PM
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@Angie
you want to lock the router ( the raiser only raises and lower the router there is free play in the router if it is not locked)
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-23-2016, 02:39 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks John, Wasn't sure. I'll be using the poor-man's router raizer, so there's a little play in the raise/lowering mechanism, so I would have probably used the lock, but thought I'd check.

Overall though, the diy version does work great. And I'm going to make a second one for my DW625 as a micro adjuster. The Hitachi is so easy to raise and lower now.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-24-2016, 11:48 AM
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Question

Not to hijack this thread but I have one Rockler lift and dont have router lock and, I can see that there is free play in the router, are there any trick, tip, to (in some way) lock the router? Im putting a tape in the circle where the raiser goes, and that functions, but with small material, and the problem is with wider stuff

Cheers.

Joe
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-24-2016, 01:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vindaloo View Post
Thanks John, Wasn't sure. I'll be using the poor-man's router raizer, so there's a little play in the raise/lowering mechanism, so I would have probably used the lock, but thought I'd check.

Overall though, the diy version does work great. And I'm going to make a second one for my DW625 as a micro adjuster. The Hitachi is so easy to raise and lower now.
Can you post a pic Angie? I had a M12V in my last table but I want to put my M12V2 in my new table. I was going to try using the nut on the end of the threaded rod that's inside the base for adjustment but I would like to see what you have just in case I like it better.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-24-2016, 02:51 PM
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I have the router razier on an RE600 and I don't know if you have to use the lock, but I always do. No chance of movement and ruining my project.

Regards Bob
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-25-2016, 02:02 AM Thread Starter
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Can you post a pic Angie?..........
Will do Charles, in a little. It's 7am and very cold out there ATM. Will post pics later. The router isn't in a table yet but it's mounted to my poor mans router plate which is pretty sturdy.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-25-2016, 09:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RÖENTGEEP View Post
Not to hijack this thread but I have one Rockler lift and dont have router lock and, I can see that there is free play in the router, are there any trick, tip, to (in some way) lock the router? Im putting a tape in the circle where the raiser goes, and that functions, but with small material, and the problem is with wider stuff
Bump. Anyone?

Cheers.

Joe
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-25-2016, 10:41 AM Thread Starter
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The insert plate isn't glued up yet, and still has the protective film on it, but you get the idea.

I removed the 8mm threaded rod from the router and took the base off. Removed the spring in the column furthest from the adjuster.

The threaded hole where the 8mm rod was had a hole in dead centre so I used this as a pilot hole to drill a 6.5mm hole for the connector bolt. Also countersunk a little around the hole for the casting under the bolt head.

The connector bolt has an allen key socket in it's head. So before putting it all together, I fixed the base to my insert plate and used a brad point bit, which fitted through the 6.5mm drilled hole, to mark the insert plate where to drill for the allen key, for above table adjustment.

I removed the base from insert plate and drilled a small pilot hole through. Then on the bottom of the insert plate I used a forstner bit to counter-bore a few mm deep for the head of the connector bolt. Then drilled out the pilot hole to make it big enough for the allen key.

I drilled 2 small holes in a tee-nut that I'd removed the spurs from. Then used this as a template to drill 2 small holes in the horseshoe part of the router body. Then 2 self tappers to hold in place.

Threaded rod cut, long enough to go through the tee-nut and meet the connector bolt without whizzing out the tee-nut on the opposite side. Also for 2 nuts as a stop, to stop the base coming off. Then another nut on the lower section of threaded rod.

The two are joined using a rod connector (a long nut). Mine was 18mm long so 9mm on the connector bolt and the other 9 on the rod. I added threadlock to 15mm of both the threaded rod and the connector bolt then screwed them into the rod connector tight against each other. Then brought the two nuts up tight to the rod connector to ensure a good lock. Then it was left for 24 hours to ensure dry.

On the top part of the threaded rod I originally just added two nuts locked together so I could use my cordless screwdriver to move it, but then added a homemade knob so I can turn it myself for micro adjustments. This is why there's an additional rod connector and section of rod at the top. It still has the two nuts for my screwdriver too.

Think that about covers it. Any questions, ask away.

There's a video of it in action here.

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-25-2016, 11:39 AM
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Very clever Angie. Your VE is a bit different than my V2. The V2 has a nut under the base and black plastic phenolic cover, about 13 or 14mm. My idea was to use3 a ratchet and socket to turn it. The V2 is also somewhat unique in that it uses a half nut where the threaded rod goes the router housing. You turn a lever one way and the half nut engages the rod allowing you to use the rod for adjustment. You turn the lever the other way and you disengage the half nut allowing the router to plunge. Still not sure I like that feature. I might turf that lever and half nut and do something like you have.

We call your rod connector "coupling nuts" here and while they are common in Imperial size, I'm not sure I will be able to find one in metric. You've given me more to think about anyway. Nicely done.

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