More motor talk - Router Forums
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-06-2016, 07:46 AM Thread Starter
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I did not want to hijack Papa Sombre's thread While reading Weber's Leeson Link this statement made me pause.
While starting, a typical motor draws five to six times the rated running current.
I tend to ruminate on how to apply this info. Is it more efficient to leave a motor running rather than switching on or off? I do on my RT while working. I don't on my TS. As I think about it TS is the one I start and stop with each cut. So how long of running time before I am wasting energy running that could be saved with on/off?

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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-06-2016, 09:16 AM
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The current surge at startup is about 1 second long, give or take. So, it uses 5 or 6 seconds worth of FULL LOAD energy. But the current draw at idle is probably on the order of 1/3 the full load amperage. So, strictly from an energy consumption view, the break-even point should be somewhere around 15-20 seconds, give or take.

However, we haven't considered the wear and tear on the motor. The motor starter is a wear item and will eventually need replacing based on several factors including the number of starts. Dollars and cents wise, this pushes the break-even point out some more, maybe to 30 seconds or a minute give or take.

However, Safety trumps all of these! I turn my machines off because the horizontal surfaces are too inviting. I'm afraid I'll lay something down on top of a spinning tablesaw blade, or jam something into a router bit. And, I find I think better without the machines running in the background. If they are running, I'm sort of rushed to get back to them. I'll keep turning mine off regardless of the cost.

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-06-2016, 11:33 AM
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I agree with DonkeyHody, As long as I have material to run through the blade the TS is running and it receives the knee once my limbs and mat have been lifted and clear the blade, I also stop for fence adjustments. Repeated start/stops over a short period will heat up the starter big time on 230v, not sure about 110, I've tripped the breaker a couple times. Checking lines, connector and breaker for loose provided nada.

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-06-2016, 12:34 PM
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The only time my TS stays running is if I am going back and forth from the TS to jointer and gets turned off for the same reasons, safety and noise. All other machines get turned if I'm not drilling, cutting, turning, etc.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-06-2016, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Ghidrah View Post
I agree with DonkeyHody, As long as I have material to run through the blade the TS is running and it receives the knee once my limbs and mat have been lifted and clear the blade, I also stop for fence adjustments. Repeated start/stops over a short period will heat up the starter big time on 230v, not sure about 110, I've tripped the breaker a couple times. Checking lines, connector and breaker for loose provided nada.
I'm surprised to learn that the 220v produces more heat on startup. I would have guessed the opposite. But that's good to know.

I do know that when running a dual voltage motor on 220 as opposed to 110 in your table saw that the saw will run cooler for a very long time. I have had my Ridgid kick off on 110v (very rarely) and as soon as the shop area is done it will be switched over to 220v.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-06-2016, 01:23 PM Thread Starter
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At your RT you run a piece, turn off. pick up new stock. turn on RT ?

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-06-2016, 01:39 PM
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Not if I have a few pieces to run but if there is reason to walk away for a few minutes then it gets shut off.

Someone I consider a master woodworker once told me that a master woodworker is not someone who never makes mistakes. He is someone who is able to cover them up so that no one can tell.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-06-2016, 01:45 PM
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I have 240V running to my 3hp General table saw . Used a dual 20 amp breaker and 12gauge wire and have never had an issue (touch wood) . I turn it off and on all the time

I donít always insulate , but when I do .
Ok ,I never insulate
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-06-2016, 04:43 PM
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I have 240V running to my 3hp General table saw . Used a dual 20 amp breaker and 12gauge wire and have never had an issue (touch wood) . I turn it off and on all the time
Yes, I think that's the best way to do it.

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-06-2016, 05:14 PM
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cocobolo1,
Its possible although can't figure out how, maybe due to the combination of solid and strand cable? I have about 20' of solid wire cable from the 230 breakers to the box w/locking connector, in my shop, (all in wall) then used about 12' of strand from the locking connector to the gang box, (flexible cable), sometimes, read "rare", I have the TS and the BS or planer running together.

But its all 10/3 wire, my brain says it shouldn't matter, not to mention I've grabbed the flex cable to see if it might be hot but it wasn't. So the only thing I can brain out is the breakers and or starter may faulty in some way. I'm sure If I started the TS then quickly kneed it then pressed start it would struggle to start for a sec then prob trip the breaker. I haven't tried quick restarts in yrs

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