Hey All, new to forum, but not to routers, still learning though. - Router Forums
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-14-2018, 07:39 PM Thread Starter
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Default Hey All, new to forum, but not to routers, still learning though.

I had a problem yesterday using dado bit at 1/2 final depth. Bit rapidly grabbed the wood & pulled it in to bit overextending the dado. I was using a fence & feeding slowly. Anyone know what I might have done wrong?
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-14-2018, 07:54 PM
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welcome Marc..
free hand or router table????
what are you referring to as ˝ final depth and how much is it???
you dudn't use feather boards and you tried to climb cut...
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-14-2018, 10:14 PM
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Welcome to the forum Marc.

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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-14-2018, 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by K4ZMB View Post
I had a problem yesterday using dado bit at 1/2 final depth. Bit rapidly grabbed the wood & pulled it in to bit overextending the dado. I was using a fence & feeding slowly. Anyone know what I might have done wrong?
Welcome to the forum,Marc.

If you were feeding your board on a table from right to left, the dado bit being away from the fence is trapping the material between the bit and the fence and the board is being fed in the same direction the bit is rotating, thus the bit is trying to grab and pull the material away from you. This is a quite unsafe condition. Some people feed it the opposite way from left to right, this will prevent the bit from trying to grab, but if you hesitate, stop feeding or let go of the board before it clears the bit ,it will grab the material and throw it back at you.

What are you dadoing? Sheet goods? Narrow boards? If doing sheet goods it is best to free hand the router along a fence.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-15-2018, 06:22 AM
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-15-2018, 06:33 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Herb. I was making a stopped dado in 3/4” plywood. I’m making a wall/built in oven cabinet. The oven weighs 230 lbs, so I made a “bridge or saddle, (imagine an upside down U), to support a double 3/4” plywood shelf to support the oven.
After the “grab”, I clamped a stop block to the router table to prevent repetition.
I do have a router jig that I made for doing larger pieces such as routing locking miter joints in the 83” sides of the cabinet.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-15-2018, 06:51 AM
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Welcome to the group Marc.
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-15-2018, 07:58 AM
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A start and stop block IS the way to go for accuracy whether on the table or hand held.
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-15-2018, 10:13 AM
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Welcome Marc

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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 11-15-2018, 10:43 AM
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Was the bit 3/4" or was it smaller and you were on the 2nd pass? If it was the 2nd pass then feed direction was wrong. In that situation you have to make the inside cut first and then the outside cut. (standard right to left feed). If you reverse that then the inside cut is a climb cut.

I agree with the others that a jig and handheld is a better way to go. Someone will post their exact width dado jig sooner or later here. With it you use a smaller bit and make two passes, one along each side of the jig. Most finished ply isn't the size they say it is. It started out that way but then they sanded it and it winds up up undersize when that happens. The exact dado width jig solves that problem.
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