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post #11 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-22-2019, 11:02 PM
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Welcome to the forum Byron.

Ross,
Rockhampton, Queensland, Australia


Enjoy the knowledge of others that can be found within.

‘Members are requested to add a first name in their profile as we are a very friendly bunch here'.
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post #12 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-23-2019, 12:14 AM
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Charles was spot on...
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post #13 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-23-2019, 08:43 AM
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Welcome to the forum Bryon. Is there a particular reason you wanted this router or do you enjoy restoring older equipment. The difference between the older and newer models usually reflect in better, safer features that make using the tool easier. Not saying older models are useless but rather they are far chancier in trying to located needed parts and manuals. Hopefully you'll find the parts you're looking for as I'm sure they exist out there but it may be a long journey. I have come across places that had new "old stock" just sitting in back rooms but that's rare but thrilling when discovered. Good luck in your quest.
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post #14 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-23-2019, 09:56 AM
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Welcome to the forum Byron
That router adaptor must have had a gear box built into it in order to change the saws motor speed 3450 rpm to 20000 rpm probably a planetary gear set. I looked at the saw manual online. I bet there where never many of those adaptors out there. Someone probably has one and doesn't even know what it is. The shaper adaptor probably just used the saw speed of 3450 rpm. You could have that adaptor made at a machine shop. Shapers turn much slower. I have a planer and a shaper adaptor for my Radial arm saw. I never use either of them. I have and old dewalt radial arm saw from about the same era that I rebuilt many years ago. It still works great. Good luck on your quest.
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post #15 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-23-2019, 09:57 AM
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Welcome to the forum. Try www.ereplacementparts.com and hope they might have the part. If you knew the original manufacturer, that might help, too.

John T.
Life is like water-skiing; if you slow down, you go down.
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post #16 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-23-2019, 10:23 AM
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Welcome to the Forum, Byron...

Have you run across the vintage machinery web site...? vintagemachinery.org...?

Nick

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
GIVE A MAN A FISH and you feed him for a day.
TEACH HIM HOW TO FISH and you feed him for his life time.
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post #17 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-23-2019, 11:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertRatTom View Post
Is it a part you could have machined? This is why I don't want to refurbish old machines. And welcome to the forum.
Sorry, this was supposed to be in another string. This should be removed.

The more I do, the less I accomplish.
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post #18 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-23-2019, 12:59 PM
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Montgomery Ward | Powr-Kraft - History | VintageMachinery.org
[Search domain vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=657] vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=657
The following 1950s Powr-Kraft model numbers were manufactured by Rockwell/Delta (Note: these are the numeric portion of the Powr-Kraft model number): 2313A; 2359A; 2486A; 2514A; 2576A; 2577; 2671A; 2739; Delta is still able to provide some of the parts.

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post #19 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-23-2019, 03:53 PM Thread Starter
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Hey, Byron; welcome!
At the risk of sounding like a broken record ("record", a concept as old as that router ), shoulda come here first, before buying(?) that old machine!
Seriously, what Charles said; wasn't and and isn't a great investment.
I have used it several times and it cuts through wood like butter. Better than my neighbors table saw. I rebuilt it and it runs perfect. Only thing now is making a new table top. trying to find the size so I can cut up the wood. Helpful advice is welcome. Thank you.
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post #20 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-23-2019, 05:20 PM
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Size of what? The tabletop? My old Dewalt is a 2 pce setup; side to side dimension is irrelevant on mine but the front to back is a bit tricky because the fence board gets clamped between the two table pieces. There are a couple of threaded clamping fixtures that determine the total front to back measurement.
Looks like yours is similar.
If so, adjust the clamps to the middle of their range, measure the front to back clamp distance, deduct the thickness of the fence strip, and that's your total table top front to back dimension. where the fence goes is determined by making sure the blade is completely behind the front of the fence when it's fully retracted to the rear, and the blade bottom is at tabletop surface ht. For ripping plywood, you can put the fence at the back of the back top panel...that should give you around 24" of rip width with the blade swung around to the outside of the yoke position.
It goes without saying (but I'll say it anyway!) ...make sure all the anti-kickback protection is fully functional and deployed when ripping on a Radial arm saw!!! Bad sh*t happens very fast.
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